Honda Car Forum

I just got a rock chip in my winshield, directly in my line of sight on
my 97 Honda Accord. According to California law, I can't patch it, I
must replace the winshield.
I got a quote from a local glass shop chain.
The cost is only $180 including labor.
This seems way too inexpensive (although perhaps prices have dropped in
recent years.)
I am almost sure the the replacement is not OEM.
Is it important to use OEM replacements? Not only for safety reasons
but for quality reasons as well.
Also, the shop told me I can drive away in about 1/2 hour. This seems
fishy to me as I would believe that the adhesives need to cure
properly. I would appreciate any advice.
Thanks

On 27 Oct 2005 15:34:24 -0700 techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:

> I got a quote from a local glass shop chain.
> The cost is only $180 including labor.
> This seems way too inexpensive (although perhaps prices have dropped
> in recent years.)
> I am almost sure the the replacement is not OEM.
> Is it important to use OEM replacements? Not only for safety reasons
> but for quality reasons as well.
> Also, the shop told me I can drive away in about 1/2 hour. This seems
> fishy to me as I would believe that the adhesives need to cure
> properly. I would appreciate any advice.

Here's my experience with windshields, 'old style'
and new style.

A gasket (moldable yet firm goo) is layed around the
perimeter of the windshield deck. The new windshield
is layed on top of this gasket and also rests against
alignment clips. Then the chrome (or colored) molding
is pressed on to hide the channel.

You're ready to drive off.

About six months ago, I had a windshield replaced on
my truck. A rubber gasket (it's grooved on the ID
of the gasket) is wrapped around the windshield, which
forms a rubber 'ring' around the windshield, then
the windshield with this rubber gasket ring is
pressed into the winshield channel.

Ready to drive RIGHT NOW.

No 'adhesives' involved in either of those two methods.

I paid $80 for a brand-new windshield, OEM quality
and then paid $70 for installation.

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On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 17:46:48 -0500 mst <mstg@linuxMYSHOESmail.org>
wrote:

> I paid $80 for a brand-new windshield, OEM quality
> and then paid $70 for installation.

Forgot to mention: the first windshield I got from
a junkyard, no chips, etc for $40 and a friend who
is a body man, installed it for me in 30 minutes.
(no cost except beer).

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I checked with the Buick dealership here earlier, and they said they
outsource EVERYTHING:

It is common to walk away for $100 on some windshields.

You will likely be okay on the one you described.

I would be interested to hear opinions on "OEM glass" as well.

A few weeks ago my 91 Civic also acquired a bad peck and crack from a rock.
This was the third one the windshield had acqired, and by far much worse
than the others. I too was amazed when I found a company (Safelite) that
would come to my house and install a new one (in less than an hour) for only
$221. After I had it installed, the technician similarly told me I could
drive in an hour.

Unfortunately, ten days later another rock hit the windshield (passenger
side) and it now has a ten inch crack in it. I called the company and asked
if there were a higher quality glass I could have had installed. Its
representative said no.

I have been thinking the new windshield's crack is by far more due to the
fact that I drive in an area overwhelmingly populated by aspiring yuppie
pick-up truck owners. They sit higher and their wheels spew out rocks close
to my windshield's level.

But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd like
to see it.



<techman41973@yahoo.com> wrote
> I just got a rock chip in my winshield, directly in my line of sight on
> my 97 Honda Accord. According to California law, I can't patch it, I
> must replace the winshield.
> I got a quote from a local glass shop chain.
> The cost is only $180 including labor.
> This seems way too inexpensive (although perhaps prices have dropped in
> recent years.)
> I am almost sure the the replacement is not OEM.
> Is it important to use OEM replacements? Not only for safety reasons
> but for quality reasons as well.
> Also, the shop told me I can drive away in about 1/2 hour. This seems
> fishy to me as I would believe that the adhesives need to cure
> properly. I would appreciate any advice.

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 23:01:32 GMT "Elle"
<elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

> But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd
> like to see it.

Didnt your OEM crack?

Fact of the matter, a rock/pebble, with the proper
angle and thrust, will mar any quality glass.

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"mst" <mstg@linuxMYSHOESmail.org> wrote
> On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 23:01:32 GMT "Elle"
> <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> > But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd
> > like to see it.
>
> Didnt your OEM crack?

Of course.

My point is it seems a bit too much of a coincidence that of the roughly
five or six projectiles that have hit my windshield hard over the last 14
years, one was hard enough to crack my non-OEM windshield only ten days
after installation.

I guess how this windshielf fares in the coming year will tell more. I am
prepared to resign myself to being messed over by all the trucks kicking up
rocks at the height of my Civic's windshield in my area, but I would like to
know if OEM glass would be tougher.

"Nope...there isn't enough difference to worry about.
Mules is mules, Erastus

"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:g%c8f.2697$yX2.895@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net:

> I would be interested to hear opinions on "OEM glass" as well.



OEM Honda glass is like OEM Honda radiators: Overpriced for what you get.

An OEM '97 Accord windshield is less than $300. An aftermarket will be less
than half that.

Quality issues with aftermarket glass usually involve distortion (see item
#2).

The only real quality issues you'll have with any windshield are:

1) Pinchweld paint nicks, which will rust. And they WILL nick the paint,
too. Get the installer to allow you to inspect the pinchweld BEFORE the new
glass goes in, and get him to primer the nicks with his glass primer. If
the glass shop won't let you do this, go find one that will.

2) Distortions in the glass. Have the glass shop support the windshield
at the same angle it will be in when installed, pointing out the shop's
windows. Then go squat down where you will be when in the driver's seat.
Squirm around and watch the view. Does anything appear distorted as you
move around? Then DON'T let them install that glass! Get them to bring in a
new one. A good glass shop will have no objection to you doing this. Of
course, greater priority will be given to distortions directly in your line
of vision. Don't reject glass just because the upper passenger-side corner
has distortion.

3) Nicks in the glass edges. Run your fingernail all around the edges on
both faces. The tiniest nick will eventually turn into a crack. If your
fingernail hangs up at any point, reject the glass.

4) Trim. Probably the very best thing for you to do is remove the wipers,
A-pillar trim and leaf grate yourself. It will prevent them from breaking
it and then gluing it up with urethane so you don't notice.

5) Make certain they've put the new glass in STRAIGHT. If they're in a
hurry they can put it in slightly rotated, and you'll have weird wind
noises and maybe even water leaks. I've just gone through this with a guy
with a 2003 CR-V. Boy did the glass shop screw that one up.

6) As far as drive time after installation, less than an hour is NORMAL.
Modern urethane glass adhesive cures VERY quickly. Don't worry about it.

7) MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL!!!!!!!
STAY WAY FROM DUMP TRUCKS! I call them windshield-crackers. If you are even
100 yards behind a dump truck, drop back 1,000 yards, or pass it. Stay at
LEAST two lanes away. Every time one of those things goes over the
slightest bump, a cascade of gravel will sift out of the tailgate seams and
break your windshield! They make dumpers tarp their loads, but they do
NOTHING about the tailgate seams. Dumb, if you ask me. And generally, don't
tailgate. If you're close to another vehicle, the chances of gravel getting
kicked onto your windshield are much greater.

Just my 2¢, of course.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
snip but all comments noted
> 7) MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL!!!!!!!
> STAY WAY FROM DUMP TRUCKS! I call them windshield-crackers. If you are
even
> 100 yards behind a dump truck, drop back 1,000 yards, or pass it. Stay at
> LEAST two lanes away. Every time one of those things goes over the
> slightest bump, a cascade of gravel will sift out of the tailgate seams
and
> break your windshield! They make dumpers tarp their loads, but they do
> NOTHING about the tailgate seams. Dumb, if you ask me. And generally,
don't
> tailgate. If you're close to another vehicle, the chances of gravel
getting
> kicked onto your windshield are much greater.
>
> Just my 2¢, of course.

Okay; thanks for the input.