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My 97 accord has a busted boot on the outer right side cv joint. It is sounding off on turns and acceleration.I plan to replace the drive axle, but, although I've done a lot of work on this car and my '90 accord, i've never done one of these. What actually has to come off? My haynes says the damper fork has to be completely removed and that the lower control arm has to be separated from the steering knuckle ball joint. Manual shows using a standard two jaw pulley/gear puller to do this. The FAQ left me a little confused about what actually had to come off and whether the ball joint would separate with a standard puller. I'm mostly concerned with getting the ball joint separated without ruining it. Also can you go right to that joint without doing anything else to the lower control arm or steering knuckle? Anyone who has done one shed any light on this. Thanks. Frank |
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Frank Boettcher <fboettcher@comcast.net> wrote in
news:0djsl1pb9fv5k3v2mlk00a2b8c5sjsdp34@4ax.com: > > > My 97 accord has a busted boot on the outer right side cv joint. It > is sounding off on turns and acceleration.I plan to replace the drive > axle, but, although I've done a lot of work on this car and my '90 > accord, i've never done one of these. > > What actually has to come off? My haynes says the damper fork has to > be completely removed No frickin' way. MA Stewart should chime in here soon. If not, I'll repost what he did recently. > and that the lower control arm has to be > separated from the steering knuckle ball joint. Manual shows using a > standard two jaw pulley/gear puller to do this. Way better than that: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints You can rent them cheap. > > The FAQ left me a little confused about what actually had to come off > and whether the ball joint would separate with a standard puller. You mean my FAQ? If so, I'd better elaborate. > I'm > mostly concerned with getting the ball joint separated without ruining > it. Easy with the right tool. > Also can you go right to that joint without doing anything else to > the lower control arm or steering knuckle? Yep. Once the lower ball joint is undone, the knuckle will swing away. It will try to pull the inner CV joint apart, so be prepared for that! You're supposed to knock the driveshaft out of the hub, which takes a hammer. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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On 25 Oct 2005 23:13:24 GMT, "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>Frank Boettcher <fboettcher@comcast.net> wrote in >news:0djsl1pb9fv5k3v2mlk00a2b8c5sjsdp34@4ax.com : > >> >> .. > > > >> >> The FAQ left me a little confused about what actually had to come off >> and whether the ball joint would separate with a standard puller. > > > >You mean my FAQ? If so, I'd better elaborate. > > I reread the FAQ and I guess confused is not accurate, but cautious about the difficulty. Several methods mentioned some with notes about the possibility of doing damage to the ball joint. Seems like the puller first shown is the best and least likely to do damage and if my gear puller does not turn out to be a perfect fit, I'll try to rent one that is shown. Frank |
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Frank Boettcher wrote:
> > On 25 Oct 2005 23:13:24 GMT, "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote: > > >Frank Boettcher <fboettcher@comcast.net> wrote in > >news:0djsl1pb9fv5k3v2mlk00a2b8c5sjsdp34@4ax.com : > > > >> The FAQ left me a little confused about what actually had to come off > >> and whether the ball joint would separate with a standard puller. > > > >You mean my FAQ? If so, I'd better elaborate. > > > > > I reread the FAQ and I guess confused is not accurate, but cautious > about the difficulty. Several methods mentioned some with notes about > the possibility of doing damage to the ball joint. Seems like the > puller first shown is the best and least likely to do damage and if my > gear puller does not turn out to be a perfect fit, I'll try to rent > one that is shown. > > Frank ------------------------------- The correct puller can be bought at Princess Auto, (in Canada) for $21. I found this out the day after picking up a (virtually) identical one from a 'wholesaler' for $68 CAN. I told Tegger and he was choked too. The 'Imported from Asia' type places are now carrying the 'clones' very cheap. The Princess Auto ones are (were?) made in Taiwan. For $21, it's cheaper than driving to the rental place, twice. 'Curly' |
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"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in
news:435FA7B3.628DC35B@interbaun.com: > Frank Boettcher wrote: >> >> On 25 Oct 2005 23:13:24 GMT, "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote: >> >> >Frank Boettcher <fboettcher@comcast.net> wrote in >> >news:0djsl1pb9fv5k3v2mlk00a2b8c5sjsdp34@4ax.com : >> > >> >> The FAQ left me a little confused about what actually had to come off >> >> and whether the ball joint would separate with a standard puller. >> > >> >You mean my FAQ? If so, I'd better elaborate. >> > >> > >> I reread the FAQ and I guess confused is not accurate, but cautious >> about the difficulty. Several methods mentioned some with notes about >> the possibility of doing damage to the ball joint. Seems like the >> puller first shown is the best and least likely to do damage and if my >> gear puller does not turn out to be a perfect fit, I'll try to rent >> one that is shown. >> >> Frank > > ------------------------------- > > The correct puller can be bought at Princess Auto, (in Canada) for $21. > I found this out the day after picking up a (virtually) identical one > from a 'wholesaler' for $68 CAN. I told Tegger and he was choked too. > The 'Imported from Asia' type places are now carrying the 'clones' very > cheap. The Princess Auto ones are (were?) made in Taiwan. For $21, it's > cheaper than driving to the rental place, twice. I remember that now. There is a Princess Auto about an hour from me, and I was going to go check out the puller you specified next time I was down there. Then I forgot. I'd love to compare and see the difference between a $90 puller and a $21 one. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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Frank Boettcher <fboettcher@comcast.net> wrote in
news 60vl1tvgn9ipf5m1kehsqjj2q83d8ijm5@4ax.com:>> >> > I reread the FAQ and I guess confused is not accurate, but cautious > about the difficulty. Several methods mentioned some with notes about > the possibility of doing damage to the ball joint. Is this clearer? http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints (Hit "refresh/reload" in your browser) I also added something jim beam sent me a long time ago. > Seems like the > puller first shown is the best and least likely to do damage That's correct. > and if my > gear puller does not turn out to be a perfect fit, It might not be strong enough. The ball joint is T-I-G-H-T. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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