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Hi,
I wanted to change the automatic transmission fluid in my 98 accord 6 cylinder. I felt the process pretty straight forward, drain with the drain plug open, fill through the ATF filler bold (6 cylinder models). The problem started when I tried to unscrew the ATF drain plug. This plug is soo tight that it refuses to budge at all. Did anyone have any problems removing this bolt ? I assume that the bolt is unscrewed anti-clockwise. I am feeling to believe that the bolt unscrews in clockwise motion.. is this a true assumption.. ? Since the ratchet is directly used to loosen the bolt, after a little struggle, the bolt head gave in and now the bolt head is deformed.. so disappointing to see that a simple ATF oil change can be so hard.. Any thoughts.. ? -- John |
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It is RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSIE unless for special apps. Your drain
plug unscrews counter clockwise or to the left as you face the bolt. Generally it is better to take a hammer and rap the end of the wrench rather than muscle it off. That was the only way mine would come off. Didn't tighten it that much so now it will come off a lot easier. If the bolt head is deformed, it may have to be drilled out or the oil pan removed to get at the bolt. Not pretty. I guess the worst would be a new oil pan - you will have to buy a gasket and a new drain plug as they come seperate. |
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"butch burton" <spacetrax@wi.rr.com> wrote in
news:1129590066.361461.102910@g14g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: > It is RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSIE unless for special apps. Your drain > plug unscrews counter clockwise or to the left as you face the bolt. > Generally it is better to take a hammer and rap the end of the wrench > rather than muscle it off. That was the only way mine would come off. > Didn't tighten it that much so now it will come off a lot easier. > > If the bolt head is deformed, it may have to be drilled out or the oil > pan removed to get at the bolt. A garage will use an air chisel to rotate the rounded head until the bolt comes out. No big deal. OP should be using correct tools. Wonder what he used? Imperial socket? -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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butch burton wrote:
> > It is RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSIE unless for special apps. <SNIP> > If the bolt head is deformed, it may have to be drilled out or the oil > pan removed to get at the bolt. Not pretty. I guess the worst would > be a new oil pan - you will have to buy a gasket and a new drain plug > as they come seperate. ----------------------------- This is an automatic Honda tranny . . I expect there is no 'oil pan'. The threaded part is part of the tranny housing. Very bad, maybe :-( 'Curly' |
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"John Edwards" <ssri1@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1129591513.377853.159020@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: > I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the > company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber > it. Looked like a good ratchet. > Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it a six- point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)? -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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On 2005-10-18, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> "John Edwards" <ssri1@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:1129591513.377853.159020@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: > >> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the >> company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber >> it. Looked like a good ratchet. > Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it a six- > point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)? Either should have worked, unless John used an SAE socket size or a previous mechanic used an air wrench. Are you the orig owner? Did you use a proper metric socket size? If the points on the head are now rounded off, you need a special box wrench that exerts force on the flats of the hex head. Snap-on calls this special shaped box wrench Flank Drive, Craftsman, Headlock. If the wrenches are not long enough to provide adequate leverage, you might consider getting these special patterns in a socket (if available) and using a breaker bar. nb |
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notbob <notbob@nothome.com> wrote in
news:FaOdnWfX0dGC0cneRVn-tw@comcast.com: > On 2005-10-18, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote: >> "John Edwards" <ssri1@hotmail.com> wrote in >> news:1129591513.377853.159020@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: >> >>> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think >>> the company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't >>> remeber it. Looked like a good ratchet. > >> Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it a >> six- point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)? > > Either should have worked, unless John used an SAE socket size That's what I wonder. Also, a 12-pointer is easier to strip. > or > a previous mechanic used an air wrench. Are you the orig owner? > Did you use a proper metric socket size? > > If the points on the head are now rounded off, you need a special box > wrench that exerts force on the flats of the hex head. Snap-on calls > this special shaped box wrench Flank Drive, Craftsman, Headlock. If > the wrenches are not long enough to provide adequate leverage, you > might consider getting these special patterns in a socket (if > available) and using a breaker bar. Good sharp air chisel will have even the roundest bolt spun out in no time. You can also MIG-weld a new bolt to the old one, and use the new one to attack the old. Works really well. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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On 2005-10-18, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> Good sharp air chisel will have even the roundest bolt spun out in no time. Even a cold chisel and ball-peen will do the trick. In fact, I'd prefer the non-air approach. More control. nb |
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