Honda Car Forum

notbob wrote:
>
> On 2005-10-18, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> > "John Edwards" <ssri1@hotmail.com> wrote in
> > news:1129591513.377853.159020@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
> >
> >> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the
> >> company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber
> >> it. Looked like a good ratchet.
>
> > Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it a six-
> > point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)?
>
> Either should have worked, unless John used an SAE socket size or
> a previous mechanic used an air wrench. Are you the orig owner?
> Did you use a proper metric socket size?
>
> If the points on the head are now rounded off, you need a special box
> wrench that exerts force on the flats of the hex head. Snap-on calls
> this special shaped box wrench Flank Drive, Craftsman, Headlock. If
> the wrenches are not long enough to provide adequate leverage, you
> might consider getting these special patterns in a socket (if
> available) and using a breaker bar.
>
> nb

-----------------------------------

What are you guys talking about !!!!!!! The tranny drain plug is an
INTERNAL 3/8" SQUARE FEMALE reciever, where you stick a ratchet handle,
without using a socket. It sounds like he didn't have it 'bottomed' when
he was torqueing on it, or the ratchet metal is cheap.

I'd get a good T-handle, or ratchet and stick it in better (tapping it
in if necessary), then whack the handle with a 2.5' piece of 4 x 4. I
did it to my rear differential on my CR-V a few weeks ago and it went
great. No, I don't have air tools :-)

'Curly'

Curly is right, there are no sockets that I can use. I directly used
the 3/8" ratchet into it. I thought I bottomed it, the bolt was soo
hard that I had to hit with a hammer, the entire inner part pretty much
got rounded with my hammering it.

-- John.

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in
news:4354853C.E09568F6@interbaun.com:

> notbob wrote:
>>
>> On 2005-10-18, TeGGeR® <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>> > "John Edwards" <ssri1@hotmail.com> wrote in
>> > news:1129591513.377853.159020@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:
>> >
>> >> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I
>> >> think the company name is something like powerglide or poweredge,
>> >> don't remeber it. Looked like a good ratchet.
>>
>> > Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it
>> > a six- point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)?
>>
>> Either should have worked, unless John used an SAE socket size or
>> a previous mechanic used an air wrench. Are you the orig owner?
>> Did you use a proper metric socket size?
>>
>> If the points on the head are now rounded off, you need a special box
>> wrench that exerts force on the flats of the hex head. Snap-on calls
>> this special shaped box wrench Flank Drive, Craftsman, Headlock. If
>> the wrenches are not long enough to provide adequate leverage, you
>> might consider getting these special patterns in a socket (if
>> available) and using a breaker bar.
>>
>> nb
>
> -----------------------------------
>
> What are you guys talking about !!!!!!! The tranny drain plug is an
> INTERNAL 3/8" SQUARE FEMALE reciever, where you stick a ratchet
> handle, without using a socket.



<emily-litella> Ohhhh....Never mind. </emily-litella>

Why the hell didn't I pick up on that one? I change my manual tranny fluid
every year. One of the plugs also has a 3/8" square hole.


> It sounds like he didn't have it
> 'bottomed' when he was torqueing on it, or the ratchet metal is cheap.


Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't go in
all the way.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"John Edwards" <ssri1@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1129615394.143820.245890@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com:

> Curly is right, there are no sockets that I can use. I directly used
> the 3/8" ratchet into it. I thought I bottomed it, the bolt was soo
> hard that I had to hit with a hammer, the entire inner part pretty much
> got rounded with my hammering it.
>


Again, the dealer can buzz that out quick with an air chisel.

Might cost you $40 or so.

Now that I'm aware that your plug is a hollow square, what probably
happened here is that aluminum corrosion locked the bolt in place. This
will occur if the bolt is never disturbed.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message news:Xns96F359C2D6035tegger@207.14.113.17...

> Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't go in
> all the way.

It bottoms out but probably came out during hammering. I normally
secure the wrench or socket with a pipe (pushed onto the wrench)
before hitting.

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message news:Xns96F35A1C46431tegger@207.14.113.17...

> Again, the dealer can buzz that out quick with an air chisel.
> Might cost you $40 or so.

I can get it loose with a chisel and hammer. Done it often.

"Burt S." <BurtSquareman@none.com> wrote in
news:aOg5f.17378$6e1.2124@newssvr14.news.prodigy.c om:

> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns96F359C2D6035tegger@207.14.113.17...
>
>> Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't
>> go in all the way.
>
> It bottoms out but probably came out during hammering. I normally
> secure the wrench or socket with a pipe (pushed onto the wrench)
> before hitting.
>
>
>
>


My own tranny bolt is usually a very tight fit on the ratchet, and I remove
that bolt once per year. It's got a skin of corrosion on it that prevents
the ratchet's square from seating properly.

As well, the spring-loaded ball in the square adds to the seating
resistance, so you need to wiggle and push until it's on there properly.

15 years and I haven't stripped one yet.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On 10/18/05 7:53 PM, in article
aOg5f.17378$6e1.2124@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com, "Burt S."
<BurtSquareman@none.com> wrote:

> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns96F359C2D6035tegger@207.14.113.17...
>
>> Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't go in
>> all the way.
>
> It bottoms out but probably came out during hammering. I normally
> secure the wrench or socket with a pipe (pushed onto the wrench)
> before hitting.
>
>
>
The drain bolt on the automatic usually takes some effort to break loose.
On my Odyssey the simplest way to get it out was to stick an impact
extension in the bolt hole to extend it out past the wheel, then use the 4
foot piece of gas pipe on the breaker bar. Piece of cake to get it out once
you have the leverage. It will pop loose all at once then screw easily.
Given the force it takes, I wouldn't think pounding on it would work very
well.