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I'm new to these engines and don't understand the full function of the 4th
valve in this head. Initially I thought it was an Aux. intake valve but notice that it is next to the exhaust valve. My Chilton manual doesn't provide any help.. May seem like a dumb question but it's got me stumped. Once I have an understanding of this question, I'm sure I'm going to have a few more before I get this nice little car ('85 CRX) running properly. Thanks, Steve |
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Chilton's 1984-1995 Civic/CRX/[blah blah] manual, Chapter 3, under "Engine
Mechanical, Engine Design": "On the 1984-88 models, Honda decided to improve engine breathing by replacing the single large main intake valve with a pair of smaller ones. This allows a much greater total intake valve area than a single valve and it also permits intake valve timing to be staggered slightly. This gave Honda engineers a unique opportunity to design air swirl into the combustion process. Such swirl (turbulence in the combustion chamber) not only tends to reduce engine knock but improves combustion speed and therefore engine efficiency, especially at low speeds. These engines retain the auxiliary intake valve on the exhaust side of the head. All of the 1988 and later Honda engines have substituted fuel injection for carburetion, and the CVCC system is no more. In the interest of good fuel efficiency, increased power and low emissions, the two intake valves were retained." This text is also available free at www.autozone.com . "Steve" <estevew@hctc.com> wrote > I'm new to these engines and don't understand the full function of the 4th > valve in this head. > > Initially I thought it was an Aux. intake valve but notice that it is next > to the exhaust valve. > > My Chilton manual doesn't provide any help.. > > May seem like a dumb question but it's got me stumped. Once I have an > understanding of this question, I'm sure I'm going to have a few more before > I get this nice little car ('85 CRX) running properly. > > Thanks, > > Steve > > |
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"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:s0ZUe.8877$Wd7.704@newsread1.news.pas.earthli nk.net... These engines retain the auxiliary > intake valve on the exhaust side of the head. > Thanks for the informative reply. Let me make sure I understand this correctly; there are 2 standard intake valves on the intake manifold side of the head and the aux. intake valve on the exhaust manifold side. Does this mean there is an intake passage going across the head?? The Long Story: Since I haven't found a need (yet) to pull the head off, I'm amaze and puzzled by this complexity. This whole car is new to me and only has 67,000 original miles, been garaged all it's 20 yr. Really well maintained. I was told it had a timing belt failure and possible valve damage. I bought it with this assumption but soon found that the timing belt was fine and the cam timing was exactly where it should be. I did cold compression tests and found #3 was only 90# while the other three were 170-185#. I replace the (missing) plugs and it started right up but rev'ed high (3500) for about a minute. Finally idled down and ran smooth after warm up. Initial road test were so-so. I did warm compression tests and found all four cylinders were between 170-185#. More extensive road test presented problems when the throttle was opened more than half (before AT kick down). There was significant loss of power and popping back through the carburetor. Part of this problem was traced to broken vacuum hose (#28)coming off the throttle venturi. Repair of this resolved the popping back and initially the car ran great on a 30+ mile road trip. On return, while coming up a hill, as I depressed the throttle, the engine lost power, like it was running out of gas. Briefly I could pull the hill in second but when ever it shifted into 3rd gear, there was no power again. I still have a problem with it rev'ing high when first started and until it is warmed up. Also runs ruff until warmed up. Sorry this has been so long. Just though I would slip the whole story in here. Thanks, Steve |
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Steve wrote:
> I still have a problem with it rev'ing high when first started and until it > is warmed up. Also runs ruff until warmed up. theres a bunch of preventative maintenance stuff that should probably be done regardless... but might help resolve the problems also. coolant change w/ orange prestone dexcool/distilled water(50/50) new OEM honda thermostat new OEM honda plug wires new ND or NGK spark plugs new OEM honda rotor new OEM honda distributor cap. other stuff... brake fluid flush AT flush/refill with honda ATF any car thats been sitting 20 years likely has major degredation to all the fluids |
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I finally found the Chilton reference that Elle provided and now have a
somewhat better understanding of the Aux. Intake Valve function. Before I dive into the carb or do a valve job, I think I will revisit the vacuum hose "jumble".. I am greatful that (i appears) no one else has messed with these and if I trace and replace them one by one, as necassary, I may eventual correct the problem. (Hoses are cheaper than an unnecassary valve job.) BTW. I opened the cover on one of those the two vacuum control "Black Boxes".. Amazing at what is/was involve prior to fuel injection/computers. Needless to say, I didn't tamper with any components in these boxes. Steve |
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"Steve" <estevew@hctc.com> wrote
> "Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote > > These engines retain the auxiliary > > intake valve on the exhaust side of the head. > > > > Thanks for the informative reply. Let me make sure I understand this > correctly; there are 2 standard intake valves on the intake manifold side of > the head and the aux. intake valve on the exhaust manifold side. Does this > mean there is an intake passage going across the head?? I'd like to get some clarifications from you: The subject line of your post says "EW1 12 valve SOHC." Does your engine actucally have "EW1" stamped on it? How many valves (both intake and exhaust) per cylinder have you actually counted under the valve cover? |
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"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message news:773Ve.1162$LS5.509@newsread3.news.pas.earthli nk.net... > "Steve" <estevew@hctc.com> wrote >> "Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote > > I'd like to get some clarifications from you: > > The subject line of your post says "EW1 12 valve SOHC." > > Does your engine actucally have "EW1" stamped on it? > The engine number/designation is: EW1-2015401 Door label plate indicates MFG date of 1/85. It is really a carborated engine. Some part house books reflect it should be FI but it's carboratated. > How many valves (both intake and exhaust) per cylinder have you actually > counted under the valve cover? > It has a engine valve cover imprinted with 12VOHC. However, the head has two (2) intake valves and one (1) exhaust valve and a much smaller Aux valve. The Aux valve is next to the exhaust valve. The carburetor is a three barrel. Primary, secondary and an Aux barrel, about the size of my little finger. I haven't really explored all of this, but will in the next day or so. I did another test drive today. About 60 miles. Mostly on the flat and as long as I didn't advance the throttle into the "dead zone", it ran great and smooth. I think I'm noticing the "dead zone" is when the secondary throttle begins to open and before it kicks down the AT to 2nd gear. When it is in 2nd, it will only rev to about 3000 rpm. Not sure if I should look for fuel or vacuum problems. Steve |
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"Steve" <estevew@hctc.com> wrote
> "Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote > > "Steve" <estevew@hctc.com> wrote > >> "Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote > > > > I'd like to get some clarifications from you: > > > > The subject line of your post says "EW1 12 valve SOHC." > > > > Does your engine actucally have "EW1" stamped on it? > > > > The engine number/designation is: EW1-2015401 > > Door label plate indicates MFG date of 1/85. > > It is really a carborated engine. Some part house books reflect it should be > FI but it's carboratated. Well, the carbureted part is well-documentd; what threw me off was whether it had 12 or 16 valves. Evidently the number of valves has thrown others off in the past, and it's not easy to clear up using drawings and online Honda parts sites... unless one knows exactly what to look for. Naturally the aux int valve has its own exclusive listing at the two parts sites I use. For example, see it at www.slhonda.com 's parts site, under simply engine, blah blah, "Auxiliary Valve." > > How many valves (both intake and exhaust) per cylinder have you actually > > counted under the valve cover? > > > It has a engine valve cover imprinted with 12VOHC. > However, the head has two (2) intake valves and one (1) exhaust valve and a > much smaller Aux valve. The Aux valve is next to the exhaust valve. > > The carburetor is a three barrel. Primary, secondary and an Aux barrel, > about the size of my little finger. I haven't really explored all of this, > but will in the next day or so. I think the above straightens things out; I trust you get it all now, too. In summary: Your vocabulary is dead-on here. The little valve next to the exhaust valve is indeed Thee "auxiliary intake valve." From my reading on the net, it's so small that it's customary to disregard it in the valve count and categorize this as a 12-valve engine. That aux barrel of the carburetor must go with the aux intake valve, etc. Maybe you already looked at the full Chilton's entry on this (just above the paragraphs I first noted). If not, it provides some clarification: --- The [1983 and earlier] CVCC engine is unique in that its cylinder head is equipped with three valves per cylinder, instead of the usual two. This design employs the usual intake and exhaust valves, and beside each intake valve is an auxiliary intake valve which is much smaller than its counterpart. This auxiliary intake valve has its own separate precombustion chamber (adjacent to the main chamber with a crossover passage), its own intake manifold passages and carburetor circuit. Briefly, the CVCC engine operates as follows: at the beginning of the intake stroke, a small but very rich mixture is inducted into the precombustion chamber, while next door in the main combustion chamber, a large but very lean mixture is inducted. (A rich mixture has a high proportion of fuel in the air/fuel ratio, while a lean mixture has a low proportion of fuel.) At the end of the compression stroke, ignition occurs. The spark plug, located in the precombustion chamber, easily ignites the rich auxiliary mixture and this ignition spreads out into the main combustion chamber, where the large lean mixture is ignited. This two-stage combustion process allows the engine to operate efficiently with a much leaner overall air/fuel ratio. So, whereas the 1975 and later non-CVCC engines require a belt-driven air injection system to control pollutants, the CVCC engines accomplish this internally and gets better gas mileage to boot. On the 1984-88 models, Honda decided to improve engine breathing by replacing the single large main intake valve with a pair of smaller ones. This allows a much greater total intake valve area than a single valve and it also permits intake valve timing to be staggered slightly. This gave Honda engineers a unique opportunity to design air swirl into the combustion process. Such swirl (turbulence in the combustion chamber) not only tends to reduce engine knock but improves combustion speed and therefore engine efficiency, especially at low speeds. These engines retain the auxiliary intake valve on the exhaust side of the head. --- I couldn't find drawings of this crossover passage and carburetor circuit (mentioned above) for the little "aux intake valve." But all else that you described now seems dead-on consistent with the Chilton's entry. Maybe it will give you some ideas... > I did another test drive today. About 60 miles. Mostly on the flat and as > long as I didn't advance the throttle into the "dead zone", it ran great and > smooth. I think I'm noticing the "dead zone" is when the secondary throttle > begins to open and before it kicks down the AT to 2nd gear. When it is in > 2nd, it will only rev to about 3000 rpm. > > Not sure if I should look for fuel or vacuum problems. Sorry; this part is beyond my experience. I'd be probing as you are, but probably more novice-like (I messed with a carburetor for just a few hours, total, in my life). I'd start with a good carburetor cleaning, and using Chilton's as my guide for its adjustment, disassembly, and so forth, which I bet you already noticed... |
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