Honda Car Forum

I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
was stretched out a little too much when installed.

The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
of the original boot, after of course removing the
old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.

--
OM

I have tried split boot replacements and they haven't worked out well. I
have given up on them.

I use only integral boots now.

There is a new technique which allows an integral boot to be installed
without dissembling everything
but it requires a special stretching tool to do it.

Boots can be replaced with relatively simple tools, and it is within the
reach of most fair
amateur mechanics.

I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:

http://tinyurl.com/bodpj

using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
tool):

http://tinyurl.com/avt8e

Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
last longer than a split boot.


In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>
> The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> of the original boot, after of course removing the
> old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
>
> --
> OM
>
>

On 19 Jul 2005 16:44:28 -0700, rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com wrote:

>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>
>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
>of the original boot, after of course removing the
>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.

Split boots are crap. They're easier to install, but they
don't seal adequately. Water is the first enemy; road grit, the
second.
Do it the hard (right) way. Buy a boot kit from a reputable
manufacturer and pull the axle to disassemble and install.

The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling of
joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of the
shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot without
removing the axle.

If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.

Thanks,
Bobby



"Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
> I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
> another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>
> using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> tool):
>
> http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>
> Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> last longer than a split boot.
>
>
> In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
> rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> > I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> > still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> > was stretched out a little too much when installed.
> >
> > The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> > install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> > usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> > I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> > be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> > of the original boot, after of course removing the
> > old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> > Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
> >
> > --
> > OM
> >
> >

bob wrote:
> The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling of
> joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of the
> shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot without
> removing the axle.
>
> If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
>
> Thanks,
> Bobby

the whole point of a split boot is that you don't need to do anything
like take the shaft out - which "slipping over the end" would require -
it's split so you just leave the shaft in place, get rid of the old
boot, clean up & fit the new boot around the shaft, then glue up the
seam. some boots are held together with screws, but whatever the
seaming method, the principle is the same.

if you want to replace a boot "properly" with a non-split boot, you /do/
have to remove the axle and remove the end that seats in the
diff/transaxle. that allows both boots to be installed without any
difficult stretching problems.


>
>
>
> "Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
>
>>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
>>another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>>
>>using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
>>tool):
>>
>>http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>>
>>Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
>>last longer than a split boot.
>>
>>
>>In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
>>rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
>>
>>>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
>>>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
>>>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
>>>
>>>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
>>>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
>>>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
>>>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
>>>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
>>>of the original boot, after of course removing the
>>>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
>>>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
>>>
>>>--
>>>OM
>>>
>>>
>
>
>

Murphy wrote
> another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> http://tinyurl.com/bodpj

what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?

> using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> tool):
>
> http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
>
> Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> last longer than a split boot.

isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"?
the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"

FB3000
Standard Flex Boot
Features & Benefits:
# Universal Flex Boot
# Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
# Replace without dissasembly
# Includes heavy duty band clamp

so it sounds like this is a split boot but has some kind of jig to hold it
or something? I cannot tell from the web site. Last time I changed one,
the part I got said it could be slipped over the shaft. There was a cone
shaped tool available but I disassembled and installed as normal as I
discovered this after opening the box at home. Too lazy to go back to parts
store and look for tool. Anyway, when I saw the tool in the URL in the
original post, I assumed this was that cone-tool. Must be something else.

bb

******
"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:5JWdnczRsN__TkDfRVn-qg@speakeasy.net...
> bob wrote:
> > The first URL says "Installer will avoid removing axle and disassembling
of
> > joint ". I assume it stretches the boot so it can slip over the end of
the
> > shaft but I'm having trouble visualizing how you can change the boot
without
> > removing the axle.
> >
> > If someone can explain how this can be done on the car, please share.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bobby
>
> the whole point of a split boot is that you don't need to do anything
> like take the shaft out - which "slipping over the end" would require -
> it's split so you just leave the shaft in place, get rid of the old
> boot, clean up & fit the new boot around the shaft, then glue up the
> seam. some boots are held together with screws, but whatever the
> seaming method, the principle is the same.
>
> if you want to replace a boot "properly" with a non-split boot, you /do/
> have to remove the axle and remove the end that seats in the
> diff/transaxle. that allows both boots to be installed without any
> difficult stretching problems.
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > "Murphy" <vgy451NOSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:MPG.1d475dcb1d8b5786989735@news.telusplanet.n et...
> >
> >>I've heard of others having problems with split boots, so I looked into
> >>another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> >>
> >>http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
> >>
> >>using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> >>tool):
> >>
> >>http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> >>
> >>Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> >>last longer than a split boot.
> >>
> >>
> >>In article <1121816668.267838.119540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
> >>rev_otis_mcnatt@yahoo.com says...
> >>
> >>>I've got a split one on the driver side. The rubber
> >>>still looks good, but it split, I believe, because it
> >>>was stretched out a little too much when installed.
> >>>
> >>>The CV joint is still good AFAIK. Would it be hard to
> >>>install one myself? I've never done it, but have the
> >>>usual tools and do lots of service work on my cars.
> >>>I've also heard of "split boot devices" that can
> >>>be wrapped around the axle and serve the purpose
> >>>of the original boot, after of course removing the
> >>>old boot. With these, the job is obviously much easier.
> >>>Anybody know about these things? Thanks a bunch.
> >>>
> >>>--
> >>>OM
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
>

You can download step-by-step instructions on how to install here:

http://tinyurl.com/awbpe

You still have to remove the axle nut and separate the wheel hub from
the axle, but the axle can stay attached to the transmission.

In article <3k6salFt1sa1U1@individual.net>, ays@ananzi.co.za says...
> Murphy wrote
> > another method. I've changed a cracked boot with one of these tools:
> > http://tinyurl.com/bodpj
>
> what does this "tube looking thing with a black pointy cone" (in the picture) do?
>
> > using universal stretch boots (you can't use oem type boots with this
> > tool):
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/avt8e
> >
> > Easier than removing the driveshaft and disassembling, and probably will
> > last longer than a split boot.
>
> isn't this another split boot? I mean, how can it be installed "without disassembly"?
> the page has a model/name "CV Flex Boot Standard - Astoria 2000"
>
> FB3000
> Standard Flex Boot
> Features & Benefits:
> # Universal Flex Boot
> # Fits 90% Of Domestic/Import Cars
> # Replace without dissasembly
> # Includes heavy duty band clamp
>

The boots I am talking about will actually expand to slip over the CV joing
itself, over the axle
splines, etc. They are not at all split boots.

You can load them onto an air powered 'piston' shaped tool that will expand
them like you
wouldnt believe. But, I imagine that without the tool, you would be just as
well off to take the
axle out and do it the old way.

I wouldn't waste my time on split boots, unless it was just to limp home
from a trip, and even
then they may not make it.