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On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 06:14:00 -0700, jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote:
>George Macdonald wrote: >> On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 05:56:59 -0700, jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote: >> >> >>>George Macdonald wrote: >>> >>>>On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 07:45:58 -0400, Imminent Vengeance <me@privacy.net> >>>>wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>>George Macdonald wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>>Depends where you live but that suspension system is prone to broken front >>>>>>springs in the frost belt - the spring breaks just where it enters the >>>>>>perch on the shock. Because of where the break is, you probably won't even >>>>>>notice any difference in ride/handling but you might hear a "doink" when >>>>>>you get out of the car on the side with the break; you'd definitely hear >>>>>>the "doink... doink" when you jack the front up. The break *can* put some >>>>>>side force on the shock which will wear it out quicker. >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>>The only time I broke a spring on my '93 Accord, it was at the other end of >>>>>the coil, at the top where it enters the strut mount. But I think this was >>>>>the result of that corner of the car jumping a huge curb while swerving to >>>>>avoid a bad driver. >>>> >>>> >>>>The break often happens on a violent bump but the root cause is usually >>>>weakening of the metal due to corrosion where water/salt gets through a >>>>hole in the epoxy coating of the spring. The upper spring seat has a >>>>rubber doughnut in it so there's no wear of the epoxy there. I've heard of >>>>the upper end going but AFAIK the lower is more common because of epoxy >>>>wearing away where it contacts the metal of the perch. If you live in a >>>>"corrosion area" it's worth checking springs for nicks in the epoxy... >>>>which *can* be caused by some of the (cruder) tools used to compress the >>>>spring, e.g. when swapping shocks. >>>> >>> >>>i've seen brand new springs with such nicks. bad [neglectful] handling >>>handling at the factory. as you say, corrosion pitting starts & that >>>causes a stress riser that initiates fatigue. it's the fatigue cracking >>>that kills the spring. >> >> >> Funny thing is I've always thought that spring metal can easily be made >> fairly corrosion resistant. > >sure, there's all kinds of non-ferrous springs, but they're fiercely >expensive. i know honda springs don't seem "cheap", but believe me, >they are compared to the alternatives. also bear in mind that steel is >relatively high modulus compared to other materials and silicon/carbon >steel typically used in auto springs has a very high yield point >compared to most fatigue resistant stainless steels. lastly, spring >wire has to be comparatively soft for the forming phase, then heat >treatable to become hard and resistant to yielding. stainless steels >exist that have these kinds of hardening reactions, but they're a big >step up in cost. I wasn't talking about stainless or non-ferrous - there are alloys of of "steel" which corrode much more slowly than others. This is a problem which, while not unique to Honda, is a rather glaring one... not to mention that the epoxy coating seems like a bad idea, given the evidence. >> If Honda thinks they can skip that because of >> the epoxy coating, somebody there is dreaming. The Lyle tool I used to >> replace my springs really did a number on the brand new spring coating - >> tried to patch with epoxy glue and hoping it'll hold for a bit. >> >just rust resistant paint works fine. trouble is, once you have some >corrosion, you have pitting & therefore potential fatigue crack >initiation. strictly speaking, springs in that condition should be >replaced, but i can't say i'm a strict adherant to that rule. depends >on mileage & condition. Did you miss something here? This was a brand new spring which was marred by the tool - no question of corrosion having started. >interesting you mention the lisle tool. i was extremely unimpressed >with the principle of that device, for the reasons you're describing >happened. i therefore built my own - does not touch the spring at all! > i'll email a photo to tegger. I chose it because it *looks* safer than some others, since the loops cannot break loose from the spring coils under load. I found on use that the screws "machine" a "thread" into the collars, thus reducing their effective thickness - IOW safety may not be what it appears. -- Rgds, George Macdonald |
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On 19 Apr 2005 12:55:43 GMT, "TeGGer®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>George Macdonald <fammacd=!SPAM^nothanks@tellurian.com> wrote in >news:evp561ts07tcmjkecn7at6src6idb5cu9t@4ax.com : > > >> The break often happens on a violent bump but the root cause is >> usually weakening of the metal due to corrosion where water/salt gets >> through a hole in the epoxy coating of the spring. The upper spring >> seat has a rubber doughnut in it so there's no wear of the epoxy >> there. I've heard of the upper end going > > > >That's where mine broke. > >And mine were silent; no *doink* noise. Never even knew until I checked >than at the next brake service. > >It's funny, but the replacement springs now have more miles and years on >them than the originals that broke. I wonder if Honda fixed a quality >problem somewhere... It's possible that you had one of the nicks mentioned by Jim Beam in the epoxy. -- Rgds, George Macdonald |
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George Macdonald wrote:
> On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 06:14:00 -0700, jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote: > > >>George Macdonald wrote: >> >>>On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 05:56:59 -0700, jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>>>George Macdonald wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>>On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 07:45:58 -0400, Imminent Vengeance <me@privacy.net> >>>>>wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>>George Macdonald wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>>Depends where you live but that suspension system is prone to broken front >>>>>>>springs in the frost belt - the spring breaks just where it enters the >>>>>>>perch on the shock. Because of where the break is, you probably won't even >>>>>>>notice any difference in ride/handling but you might hear a "doink" when >>>>>>>you get out of the car on the side with the break; you'd definitely hear >>>>>>>the "doink... doink" when you jack the front up. The break *can* put some >>>>>>>side force on the shock which will wear it out quicker. >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>The only time I broke a spring on my '93 Accord, it was at the other end of >>>>>>the coil, at the top where it enters the strut mount. But I think this was >>>>>>the result of that corner of the car jumping a huge curb while swerving to >>>>>>avoid a bad driver. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>The break often happens on a violent bump but the root cause is usually >>>>>weakening of the metal due to corrosion where water/salt gets through a >>>>>hole in the epoxy coating of the spring. The upper spring seat has a >>>>>rubber doughnut in it so there's no wear of the epoxy there. I've heard of >>>>>the upper end going but AFAIK the lower is more common because of epoxy >>>>>wearing away where it contacts the metal of the perch. If you live in a >>>>>"corrosion area" it's worth checking springs for nicks in the epoxy... >>>>>which *can* be caused by some of the (cruder) tools used to compress the >>>>>spring, e.g. when swapping shocks. >>>>> >>>> >>>>i've seen brand new springs with such nicks. bad [neglectful] handling >>>>handling at the factory. as you say, corrosion pitting starts & that >>>>causes a stress riser that initiates fatigue. it's the fatigue cracking >>>>that kills the spring. >>> >>> >>>Funny thing is I've always thought that spring metal can easily be made >>>fairly corrosion resistant. >> >>sure, there's all kinds of non-ferrous springs, but they're fiercely >>expensive. i know honda springs don't seem "cheap", but believe me, >>they are compared to the alternatives. also bear in mind that steel is >>relatively high modulus compared to other materials and silicon/carbon >>steel typically used in auto springs has a very high yield point >>compared to most fatigue resistant stainless steels. lastly, spring >>wire has to be comparatively soft for the forming phase, then heat >>treatable to become hard and resistant to yielding. stainless steels >>exist that have these kinds of hardening reactions, but they're a big >>step up in cost. > > > I wasn't talking about stainless or non-ferrous - there are alloys of of > "steel" which corrode much more slowly than others. This is a problem > which, while not unique to Honda, is a rather glaring one... well sure, there are /many/ aloys of steel, but the key one in this application is the ability to heat treat to something with a very high yield point, yet not be brittle > not to mention > that the epoxy coating seems like a bad idea, given the evidence. that definitely could do with some work. honda don't actually make springs - they buy them in. find out who the supplier is. > > >>> If Honda thinks they can skip that because of >>>the epoxy coating, somebody there is dreaming. The Lyle tool I used to >>>replace my springs really did a number on the brand new spring coating - >>>tried to patch with epoxy glue and hoping it'll hold for a bit. >>> >> >>just rust resistant paint works fine. trouble is, once you have some >>corrosion, you have pitting & therefore potential fatigue crack >>initiation. strictly speaking, springs in that condition should be >>replaced, but i can't say i'm a strict adherant to that rule. depends >>on mileage & condition. > > > Did you miss something here? This was a brand new spring which was marred > by the tool - no question of corrosion having started. ! > > >>interesting you mention the lisle tool. i was extremely unimpressed >>with the principle of that device, for the reasons you're describing >>happened. i therefore built my own - does not touch the spring at all! >> i'll email a photo to tegger. > > > I chose it because it *looks* safer than some others, since the loops > cannot break loose from the spring coils under load. I found on use that > the screws "machine" a "thread" into the collars, thus reducing their > effective thickness - IOW safety may not be what it appears. > seems it's designed for operator safety at the time of service, not subsequent fatigue damage safety. |
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