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My 1997 Honda Civic DX started for two or three seconds then died. The
engine turns over fine but will not start or even fire. When I disconnect the fuel line at the manifold to check for pressure and flow, the engine starts. It runs until the fuel in the injection manifold is gone. When the fuel line is hooked back up, the engine will not fire. Removing the fuel line from the manifold brings the same result every time. It did this last winter once, but came back to life and has ran fine since. |
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Bubbabee wrote:
> My 1997 Honda Civic DX started for two or three seconds then died. The > engine turns over fine but will not start or even fire. When I disconnect > the fuel line at the manifold to check for pressure and flow, the engine > starts. It runs until the fuel in the injection manifold is gone. When > the fuel line is hooked back up, the engine will not fire. Removing the > fuel line from the manifold brings the same result every time. It did > this last winter once, but came back to life and has ran fine since. > ---------------------------- Is the outside temperature below freezing, and have you been keeping your tank fairly full, or running on 'E' ? Have you ever used gas line antifreeze? 'Curly' |
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Curly,
It's just above freezing and has been for several days. I've never used gas line antifreeze but do put fuel injector cleaner in every other tank. I generally drive off of the top of the tank. It's 3/4 full now. |
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Fuel pressure is good and filter is only 6 months old. The car only runs
after the fuel line is disconnected and the fuel mixture runs lean (for about 10 seconds). I checked the resistance across A & B on the igniter and got 1 to 1.2 ohms. The book calls for .5 to .6. A to coil was OK (15.9 ohms). Is the difference in ohms across A & B enough to warrant a new igniter? Also, this seems to be a cold/wet weather problem. Any help is appreciated! |
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I don't think your ignitor is the problem -- that is basically just a
switch, causing 12V to pulse on the coil. If the ignitor was bad, you would not be able to start the car with the fuel line disconnected. Also measuring low resistance is tricky with most meters -- you'll have a hard time telling the difference between 1.2 and .6 ohms. In low resistance ranges, only a four wire setup could measure it properly so I wouldn't worry about the discrepancy in resistance. When the car doesn't start, does it appear flooded? I wonder if one of the injectors is stuck open or somehow is injector related. Maybe you removing the fuel line causes it not to flood and start for that brief instance. |
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When the car is turning over and not starting, it is just on the verge of
firing. I've never had an injector out. Is that something only for the professionals? Also, I noticed what appears to be a regulator on the fuel rail. Could this be a suspect? Your help is certainly appreciated. |
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Not absolutely sure what would happen if your pressure is too high, but
one would imagine that this could cause the car to flood. I'd check the pressure, since you taking the pressure off the system stops this from happening and allows you to start the car, as you mentioned. Also, after you pressurize the fuel system (by just turning the key and not starting), you could see if an injector is leaking by watching the pressure: If it stays where it is, your injectors are most likely fine in that respect. If the pressure slowly decays, you have an injector leaking into the cylinder. There might be others here that have other good ideas and perhaps have seen this before. Just be careful working with injectors. Besides them being fairly fragile, you don't want to make a mistake and start a fire. Remco |
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Epilogue - I re-installed the igniter after testing it, and put the
distributor back together. Touched nothing else. Car started right up and will not repeat the problem. Bad connection in the wiring in the distributor? I still don't understand why relieving the fuel pressure in the fuel rail would aid in the engine momentarily firing. Thanks for responding to my posts. |
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