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Pat wrote:
> "Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:1107129960.505352.240510@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com... >> I suspect you solved your problem. Most likely your ALT light would >> be on if it wasn't charging right. The previous battery must have >> not been able to hold a charge. When they go like this, the >> alternator's voltage is supposed to be around 14V when running, but >> - because the battery >> was bad - the voltage was most likely much less than that. > > > Here is the results of the battery test. > > With a new Sears Battery to replace the old one, the car is able to > start and drive. It hasn't really been driven since the incident with > the bad battery. However, when I placed a Volt meter across the > leads, I got the following results. > > (1) Battery Voltage with No Lights, Engine Off - 12.47 V > > (2) Battery Voltage with Headlights On, Engine Off - 11.87 V > > (3) Battery Voltage with No Lights, Engine Idling On - 12.29 V > > > > This would appear to indicate its the alternator. Maybe that's what > is was all along. A run down battery and an alternator, unable to > generate enough juice. > > Is it absolutely the alternator with the above 12.29 V reading? Could > it be a loose connection or some other thing? What is the battery voltage after running the engine at a high idle ~2000rpm for a few minutes? -- Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter. |
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While driving a car, you should see about 14 V (another post mentions
14.5V) across the battery. I'd carefully check the connection from the alternator to the battery and both connections on the battery -- take them off and clean them. Also make sure you have a good ground: put the multimeter from the battery negative to the body of the alternator -- you can measure it with the resistance setting, but most meters have a hard time with low resistances. It is better to put the meter to measure voltage and start the car. You may see something in the order of 100 mV or so but nothing like volts. Also clean off the ground connection. Make sure your belt is not slipping. Chances are your alternator is bad. In my area (CT) repair shops exist that will fix them for around $40. You could probably also get a good replacement alternator off eBay. Remco |
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"Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1107438514.812082.198160@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com... > While driving a car, you should see about 14 V (another post mentions > 14.5V) across the battery. > I'd carefully check the connection from the alternator to the battery > and both connections on the battery -- take them off and clean them. > > Also make sure you have a good ground: put the multimeter from the > battery negative to the body of the alternator -- you can measure it > with the resistance setting, but most meters have a hard time with low > resistances. It is better to put the meter to measure voltage and start > the car. You may see something in the order of 100 mV or so but nothing > like volts. Also clean off the ground connection. > > Make sure your belt is not slipping. > > Chances are your alternator is bad. In my area (CT) repair shops exist > that will fix them for around $40. You could probably also get a good > replacement alternator off eBay. > > Remco > It'll be a day before I can verify what you recommended here. Regards $40, you mean $400 for parts and labor, don't you? The Sears shop quoted around $350 for the whole job and the Honda dealer quoted $450. The Sears guy said it was difficult to get the alternator off the car and he would have to take off some other components to get at it, therefore the high labor cost. |
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Pat wrote:
> "Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:1107438514.812082.198160@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com... > >>While driving a car, you should see about 14 V (another post mentions >>14.5V) across the battery. >>I'd carefully check the connection from the alternator to the battery >>and both connections on the battery -- take them off and clean them. >> >>Also make sure you have a good ground: put the multimeter from the >>battery negative to the body of the alternator -- you can measure it >>with the resistance setting, but most meters have a hard time with low >>resistances. It is better to put the meter to measure voltage and start >>the car. You may see something in the order of 100 mV or so but nothing >>like volts. Also clean off the ground connection. >> >>Make sure your belt is not slipping. >> >>Chances are your alternator is bad. In my area (CT) repair shops exist >>that will fix them for around $40. You could probably also get a good >>replacement alternator off eBay. >> >>Remco >> > > > It'll be a day before I can verify what you recommended here. Regards $40, > you mean $400 for parts and labor, don't you? The Sears shop quoted around > $350 for the whole job and the Honda dealer quoted $450. The Sears guy said > it was difficult to get the alternator off the car and he would have to take > off some other components to get at it, therefore the high labor cost. > > it *should* come out the bottom, with a little twisting around. if theyre removing parts, they arent doing the job right. |
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"SoCalMike" <mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:KqydnV3D-YroGJ_fRVn-vA@comcast.com... > Pat wrote: > > "Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:1107438514.812082.198160@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com... > > > >>While driving a car, you should see about 14 V (another post mentions > >>14.5V) across the battery. > >>I'd carefully check the connection from the alternator to the battery > >>and both connections on the battery -- take them off and clean them. > >> > >>Also make sure you have a good ground: put the multimeter from the > >>battery negative to the body of the alternator -- you can measure it > >>with the resistance setting, but most meters have a hard time with low > >>resistances. It is better to put the meter to measure voltage and start > >>the car. You may see something in the order of 100 mV or so but nothing > >>like volts. Also clean off the ground connection. > >> > >>Make sure your belt is not slipping. > >> > >>Chances are your alternator is bad. In my area (CT) repair shops exist > >>that will fix them for around $40. You could probably also get a good > >>replacement alternator off eBay. > >> > >>Remco > >> > > > > > > It'll be a day before I can verify what you recommended here. Regards $40, > > you mean $400 for parts and labor, don't you? The Sears shop quoted around > > $350 for the whole job and the Honda dealer quoted $450. The Sears guy said > > it was difficult to get the alternator off the car and he would have to take > > off some other components to get at it, therefore the high labor cost. > > > > > > it *should* come out the bottom, with a little twisting around. if > theyre removing parts, they arent doing the job right. Great input, I'll know more Friday. Thanks for the tip! |
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No, I mean $40 to have the alternator repaired: You take it off the
car, They'll fix it. The one I've used does alternators and starters (these are more than $40). Alternators often just have their diodes blown and are usually pretty easy to fix, from what they've told me. There might be similar shops in your area - it pays to shop around. I've bought car parts on ebay and it has worked out for me so maybe that is a good option for you too. For instance, here's an alternator that seems to fit your car ending Feb-04-05 23:07:19 PST: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6763 |
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"Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1107485201.414035.199250@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com... > No, I mean $40 to have the alternator repaired: You take it off the > car, They'll fix it. > The one I've used does alternators and starters (these are more than > $40). Alternators often just have their diodes blown and are usually > pretty easy to fix, from what they've told me. > > There might be similar shops in your area - it pays to shop around. > > I've bought car parts on ebay and it has worked out for me so maybe > that is a good option for you too. > For instance, here's an alternator that seems to fit your car ending Worth a try. How long can you drive with a brand new battery not recharging? For example, can you make a few runs to a super market to buy groceries that is a half-mile away? |
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You can't drive your car not too long with the battery not charging --
exactly how long would be hard to say because it depends on the load: If it is cold, you might turn on your heating fan. If you are driving at night, you will need to turn on your lights. I would not count on it as it may leave you stranded. Murphy's law dictates that it will be under the worst of circumstances. Btw, when later you are able to check your alternator, try putting your voltmeter across the output of the alternator (at the alternator's larger connection and on its body). Be careful that the leads are not getting tangled in the belt and keep your hands clear, obviously. You should see 14V or more there when the car is running. If you don't, chances are that your alternator is bad. Also, should you need to replace it, be sure to get your hands on a repair manual on your car. I am pretty sure that you need to take a couple of things off and the alternator comes out from below on a civic. If you have never done it before, follow the instructions, take breaks when you need them and take your time - you can do it. Remco |
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"Remco" <whybcuz@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1107531679.397443.29580@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com... > You can't drive your car not too long with the battery not charging -- > exactly how long would be hard to say because it depends on the load: > If it is cold, you might turn on your heating fan. If you are driving > at night, you will need to turn on your lights. > > I would not count on it as it may leave you stranded. Murphy's law > dictates that it will be under the worst of circumstances. > > Btw, when later you are able to check your alternator, try putting your > voltmeter across the output of the alternator (at the alternator's > larger connection and on its body). Be careful that the leads are not > getting tangled in the belt and keep your hands clear, obviously. You > should see 14V or more there when the car is running. If you don't, > chances are that your alternator is bad. > > Also, should you need to replace it, be sure to get your hands on a > repair manual on your car. I am pretty sure that you need to take a > couple of things off and the alternator comes out from below on a > civic. > > If you have never done it before, follow the instructions, take breaks > when you need them and take your time - you can do it. > > Remco Checking at the alternator seems like the best way to get at the root of the problem. When driving the car to a Honda specialist on Monday morning it'll have nothing on except the car working the spark plugs, with no lights, heater, et al. Isn't that the lightest possible load? All I need to get is about 5 miles. |
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