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I am stuck trying to get the passenger side axle out of the tranny,
because the castle nut holding the lower control arm to the ball joint stud is spinning but not coming off. The nut did come down partially before refusing to thread any further back on or off though. Right now the nut covers just about the last couple threads. I would think it should loosen fairly easily with the the LCA pushing down on the nut, but I guess not. Any suggestions before I take a dremel to the nut and risk damaging the threads on the ball joint stud? I suspect the harder threads on the stud are fine and I'd like to avoid having to buy a new ball joint. Lindsay |
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Ok, I just got back under the car, despite it being -7 degrees C out
here. It looks like the nut hasn't even partially come down, as the gap in the castle nut still lines up with the hole in the stud for the cotter pin. I suspect the mechanic who replaced the axle at one time pounded it on with an impact wrench since it is just the last few threads that are screwed up. Just some new information. Any tips appreciated, though I may just get impatient and take a dremel and chisel to the thing pretty soon. |
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pallickal@gmail.com wrote:
> Ok, I just got back under the car, despite it being -7 degrees C out > here. It looks like the nut hasn't even partially come down, as the gap > in the castle nut still lines up with the hole in the stud for the > cotter pin. I suspect the mechanic who replaced the axle at one time > pounded it on with an impact wrench since it is just the last few > threads that are screwed up. Just some new information. Any tips > appreciated, though I may just get impatient and take a dremel and > chisel to the thing pretty soon. Don't be too hasty when you get frustrated, a little patience can save that frustration from compounding. When I did my axles, I used my jack to put force upwards on the lower arm. this stopped the ball joint from turning. The stud is tapered, and jacking up the control arm squishes the tapered hole in the control arm against the tapered part of the ball joint stud. It should stop it from moving. Mark |
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Chopface wrote:
> pallickal@gmail.com wrote: > >> Ok, I just got back under the car, despite it being -7 degrees C out >> here. It looks like the nut hasn't even partially come down, as the gap >> in the castle nut still lines up with the hole in the stud for the >> cotter pin. I suspect the mechanic who replaced the axle at one time >> pounded it on with an impact wrench since it is just the last few >> threads that are screwed up. Just some new information. Any tips >> appreciated, though I may just get impatient and take a dremel and >> chisel to the thing pretty soon. > > > Don't be too hasty when you get frustrated, a little patience can save > that frustration from compounding. When I did my axles, I used my jack > to put force upwards on the lower arm. this stopped the ball joint from > turning. The stud is tapered, and jacking up the control arm squishes > the tapered hole in the control arm against the tapered part of the ball > joint stud. It should stop it from moving. > > Mark to add to that, yes, put the jack under the arm, but sometimes that's not enough. if it's real stubborn, have an assistant use a lever to press the knuckle down against the jack's upward force. that /really/ clamps the taper in the hole & you can then undo it easily. |
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