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I have a 1992 four-door Acoord EX with AT and 166,000 miles. I sometimes get a horrible hesitation when I either take-off from a dead stop or when I speed-up from, say, 1,000 RPMs. Not only does the engine not rev, but also it seems like something is physically preventing the gas pedal from depressing. Starting, cruising and turning off the engine are all normal, as is fuel mileage. TIA, Jimbo JIMBO |
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NJSS wrote:
> I have a 1992 four-door Acoord EX with AT and 166,000 miles. > > I sometimes get a horrible hesitation when I either take-off from a dead stop > or when I speed-up from, say, 1,000 RPMs. Not only does the engine not rev, but > also it seems like something is physically preventing the gas pedal from > depressing. if it feels like that, it may indeed be a throttle problem. inspect both the pedal end & throttle body ends of the cable for free movement & fraying. if the cable has frayed and gets jammed, you can have a throttle stuck open. could ruin your whole afternoon. > > Starting, cruising and turning off the engine are all normal, as is fuel > mileage. > > TIA, > > Jimbo > JIMBO |
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your throttle body is all gummed up
remove hose to throttle body spray some fuel ingector cleaner ( not gum out may harm sensors ) into throttle body clean inside butterfly plate with tooth brush + rag once clean and shinny jam a screw driver to hold throttle body butterfly plate open let air dry for a few hours do not start immediately let dry 100% you do not want the chemicals on the sensors good luck Ray njss@aol.com (NJSS) wrote in message news:<20041201123749.06111.00000816@mb-m23.aol.com>... > I have a 1992 four-door Acoord EX with AT and 166,000 miles. > > I sometimes get a horrible hesitation when I either take-off from a dead stop > or when I speed-up from, say, 1,000 RPMs. Not only does the engine not rev, but > also it seems like something is physically preventing the gas pedal from > depressing. > > Starting, cruising and turning off the engine are all normal, as is fuel > mileage. > > TIA, > > Jimbo > JIMBO |
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Thank you for your time and advice. I went to Advance Auto today and picked up some throttle body cleaner. Before I used it I discovered that the throttle cable on the side away from the gas pedal was non retracting and occasionally stuck coming out. this cable runs from the side of the battery (where it has like rubber bellows shrouding it) to the throttle. It is not always moving freely. Otherwise, the throttle itself seemed to be OK. How do I lubricate this cable and is there some type of spring which make it return and takes up the slack? As always, thanks in advance, Jimbo JIMBO |
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NJSS wrote:
> How do I lubricate this cable and is there some type of spring which make it > return and takes up the slack? motorcycle shops have a cable lube device for sale that might just work. its a piece of billet aluminum that has a rubber part. the whole thing slips over the end of the cable, and you attach the spray tube/nozzle thingie from a can of cable lube to it. it forces the lube (cable lube/wd40/whatever) into the sheath and through until it comes out the other side. when the inside of your car smells like wd40, its done! or take the cable off completely, and hold it by one end while you dribble lube down the cable until it comes out the other side. or replace the cable.... on my motorcycles clutch cable, i always went with option #2. cept for the first time when i didnt lube it at all and it rusted through and broke. then option #3 was the only option. from then on, every couple years id do option #2 ![]() |
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SoCalMike wrote:
> NJSS wrote: > >> How do I lubricate this cable and is there some type of spring which >> make it >> return and takes up the slack? > > > motorcycle shops have a cable lube device for sale that might just work. > > its a piece of billet aluminum that has a rubber part. the whole thing > slips over the end of the cable, and you attach the spray tube/nozzle > thingie from a can of cable lube to it. > > it forces the lube (cable lube/wd40/whatever) into the sheath and > through until it comes out the other side. when the inside of your car > smells like wd40, its done! > > or take the cable off completely, and hold it by one end while you > dribble lube down the cable until it comes out the other side. > > or replace the cable.... > > on my motorcycles clutch cable, i always went with option #2. > > cept for the first time when i didnt lube it at all and it rusted > through and broke. then option #3 was the only option. > > from then on, every couple years id do option #2 ![]() i'm a great fan of wd40 for freeing up siezed parts, but not as a lubricant. it dries off, and then you're into metal-to-metal contact. the honda throttle cables have a plastic liner which is supposed to be lubed for life. if it's gummed up because the boot at the end was left off, by all means, try freeing it up, cleaning & relubeing with a light silicone [so as to not dissolve the plastic liner]. if the liner's damaged, it won't run smooth & could get jammed, or worse, allow the cable to fray. in this case, i _strongly_ recommend replacement. when i was a kid, my dad had a throttle cable sieze full open because of fraying. it was "interesting" for a moment or two. |
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