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Hello everyone.
I took on the above tasks in a laborious [last]weekend back home. What a nightmare. As of writing I'm still waiting on local parts to arrive. I knew it was time for both, without even looking. Steering wheel was full of vibration, especially on hard/moderate braking, but also at highway cruising speed. The car was[is still] in need of an alignment. 184.5k yet the response at the steering wheel was still very nimble. I picked up a set of wearever rotors(~23ea), along with a decent pair of ceramic pads($40/pr)(to keep down on front brake dust - annoying). The axle nuts proved to be interesting. After breaking a breaker bar(yes it was no name). I called the local Honda service center and asked if they could break them lose for me. They said they'd be happy to, and I was on my way. Didn't take 'em 3 sec's to break them free(my air config. was hindered by a severely restrictive host). I paid for his time - he said he'd buy the guys some drinks. The worst part were the 4 bolts holding the bearing plate to the rotors. I get the impression the last person to work on it really hammered down on those bolts. I learned that they are only to be torqued to roughly 45ft/lbs. We(my Dad aided) couln't get a good grip on 4 of the 8 bolts(both sides) we had to remove. Air tools were a bad idea. I ended up drilling the centers out, soaking with lube, torching them, and then air chizzlin' the crap outa the bolt. Argh... Once that was over it was a mad dash to to find appropriate replacment bolts. I won't even go there. They were replaced with the right thread, however 2 weren't flange. In a nutshell, put everything back together, cleaned piston slides, and installed the brake pads. My second(to brakes) goal was to install a rebuilt half shaft. For $60 you can't go wrong. All I needed was the P/S outboard CV joint, but the autoparts store I visited didn't even sell them! Popped the 1/2 axle in without any trouble at all. That was the easiest part. Next was a good time to put some new struts on - it had been a horrible ride for long trips. I rented a compressor and proceded to put the passenger side strut in. I got to the driver's side and found a cracked spring(two spots!). Luckily they were near the ends. So I had to wait 4 days to get new springs. I found that my rental spring compressors didn't fit the bill. While they worked great for transferring a spring to new strut, their overall compression length was too short to [safely] 'unarm' an old spring. So I had a local monroe do it on the side for me. $30 to put new springs and struts on old mounting hats/hardware. Overall it was a worthwhile headache. Inspection is next month, so it's a relief as well. As for the results? Well the front end is significantly higher now than the rear. I didn't realize the stock suspension was so warn - I though my 90 accrd was just pimpishly low(<--bad pass at comedy). Anyways, there were some concerns I wanted to try and resolve. The orig. passenger side brake pads had worn 90% or so - I heard the indicator. But on the driver-side, the one with a broken spring, the pad pair showed only ~30% wear! I attributed this to the spring, but that may not be a correct assumtion. Also on the D/S, when I was installing the damper assembly to the pinch fork, I made sure to align the notches in the rear. However when I tried to put the long bolt through the forks at the bottom, the fork did not line up. It was not just a matter of pushing down on the rotor, but I had to twist the strut slighly. Rough guess it was 10 degrees rotated off center. I couldn't get the pinch bolt tight enough to hold, while trying to twist the bottom into place. In short, the notch does not line up on the strut/fork. Upon driving, the car easily pulls to the right if you nudge it that way. Also the steering wheel oscillates at medium pace durring <30mph driving. How severe is this? Does the above sound like something that an alignment will fix up? As far as I see it, no alignment bolts were touched! So thanks for everyone who contributes technical material to this/these forums. I learned all I need to know about doing the above from this forum! -Jamie ...o0(my Nissan is my next victim)0o.. |
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Wow! Did the struts yourself, that took guts! I can relate about getting
the rotors off. My '93's drvier's side was similarly challenging. Fortunately I soaken the bolts in penetrating oil for a day before starting so I was at least able to get them off without having to use a torch. I can't tell you about the damper assembly issue, but I would think that the best bet would be to get an alignment and see what it does. A local shop did a 4 wheel alignment for my '93 for only $44! -- KWW "Slipnfall" <klijam64@email.pct.edu> wrote in message news:dd50c0c3.0409112147.7d8aed59@posting.google.c om... > Hello everyone. > I took on the above tasks in a laborious [last]weekend back home. > What a nightmare. As of writing I'm still waiting on local parts to > arrive. I knew it was time for both, without even looking. Steering > wheel was full of vibration, especially on hard/moderate braking, but > also at highway cruising speed. The car was[is still] in need of an > alignment. 184.5k yet the response at the steering wheel was still > very nimble. > > I picked up a set of wearever rotors(~23ea), along with a decent > pair of ceramic pads($40/pr)(to keep down on front brake dust - > annoying). The axle nuts proved to be interesting. After breaking a > breaker bar(yes it was no name). I called the local Honda service > center and asked if they could break them lose for me. They said > they'd be happy to, and I was on my way. Didn't take 'em 3 sec's to > break them free(my air config. was hindered by a severely restrictive > host). I paid for his time - he said he'd buy the guys some drinks. > > The worst part were the 4 bolts holding the bearing plate to the > rotors. I get the impression the last person to work on it really > hammered down on those bolts. I learned that they are only to be > torqued to roughly 45ft/lbs. We(my Dad aided) couln't get a good grip > on 4 of the 8 bolts(both sides) we had to remove. Air tools were a bad > idea. I ended up drilling the centers out, soaking with lube, torching > them, and then air chizzlin' the crap outa the bolt. Argh... Once that > was over it was a mad dash to to find appropriate replacment bolts. I > won't even go there. They were replaced with the right thread, however > 2 weren't flange. In a nutshell, put everything back together, cleaned > piston slides, and installed the brake pads. > > My second(to brakes) goal was to install a rebuilt half shaft. > For $60 you can't go wrong. All I needed was the P/S outboard CV > joint, but the autoparts store I visited didn't even sell them! Popped > the 1/2 axle in without any trouble at all. That was the easiest part. > > Next was a good time to put some new struts on - it had been a > horrible ride for long trips. I rented a compressor and proceded to > put the passenger side strut in. I got to the driver's side and found > a cracked spring(two spots!). Luckily they were near the ends. So I > had to wait 4 days to get new springs. I found that my rental spring > compressors didn't fit the bill. While they worked great for > transferring a spring to new strut, their overall compression length > was too short to [safely] 'unarm' an old spring. So I had a local > monroe do it on the side for me. $30 to put new springs and struts on > old > mounting hats/hardware. > > Overall it was a worthwhile headache. Inspection is next month, > so it's a relief as well. As for the results? Well the front end is > significantly higher now than the rear. I didn't realize the stock > suspension was so warn - I though my 90 accrd was just pimpishly > low(<--bad pass at comedy). > > Anyways, there were some concerns I wanted to try and resolve. > The orig. passenger side brake pads had worn 90% or so - I heard the > indicator. But on the driver-side, the one with a broken spring, the > pad pair showed only ~30% wear! I attributed this to the spring, but > that may not be a correct assumtion. > > Also on the D/S, when I was installing the damper assembly to the > pinch fork, I made sure to align the notches in the rear. However when > I tried to put the long bolt through the forks at the bottom, the fork > did not line up. It was not just a matter of pushing down on the > rotor, but I had to twist the strut > slighly. Rough guess it was 10 degrees rotated off center. I couldn't > get the pinch bolt tight enough to hold, while trying to twist the > bottom into place. In short, the notch does not line up on the > strut/fork. Upon driving, the car easily pulls to the right if you > nudge it that way. Also the steering wheel oscillates at medium pace > durring <30mph driving. > > How severe is this? Does the above sound like something that an > alignment will fix up? As far as I see it, no alignment bolts were > touched! > > So thanks for everyone who contributes technical material to > this/these forums. I learned all I need to know about doing the above > from this forum! > > -Jamie > > ..o0(my Nissan is my next victim)0o.. |
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Well, I would have replaced just the struts myself, but the springs
needed to go also. Like I said, [some]rental compressors work just fine to compress a spring, pull it off the strut, and uncompress it on a new strut. I did it a few years back on a Grand Am with no hassles. However I couldn't get a good clamping position on the installed spring to fully decompress them. In other words, the tool wouldn't extend far enough to release the spring un-tensioned. Because of this I seriously doubted I could compress the *new* springs far enough to install them. I took a safety call here and just had a garage do it for me. Oh yeah those 14mm bolts were a pain! <-these incidents *engrave* bolt sizes in your memory! :-) I'm hoping that an alignment will cure my steering wheel wobble and 'floatiness'(I partly attribute this to the higher lift/stiffness). The control seems very unstable and not easy to predict. For instance, it seems the quicker I turn the wheel, the more it will pull hard to one size exiting the turn. I'm just postponing the alignment in leu of new all-season's. Thanks for the response! -Jamie "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message news:<1re1d.293283$8_6.133982@attbi_s04>... > Wow! Did the struts yourself, that took guts! I can relate about getting > the rotors off. My '93's drvier's side was similarly challenging. > Fortunately I soaken the bolts in penetrating oil for a day before starting > so I was at least able to get them off without having to use a torch. > > I can't tell you about the damper assembly issue, but I would think that the > best bet would be to get an alignment and see what it does. A local shop > did a 4 wheel alignment for my '93 for only $44! > -- > KWW |
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