Honda Car Forum

Hello all,

I got a problem which I think is being caused by a failing
master cylinder but wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one. I
am noticing that every 5th time that I brake, the brake pedal will go
down to the floor more significantly than normal. What is odd is that
this is only occurring when the rotors warm up. In the morning I do
not notice this, but could also be because of highway driving. Do I
have a master cylinder which is beginning to fail? Also I see that the
OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
other reason why I should go with OEM?

Thanks in advance for all of your help,
Nick

One additional thing I forgot to mention was that I have replaced the
reservoir fluid 3 times by siphoning it out without any luck. Also, I
haven't needed to refill the reservoir so I don't think that there is
a leak in any of the lines.

Thanks,
Nick


On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 07:10:52 -0400, Nick
<npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:

>Hello all,
>
> I got a problem which I think is being caused by a failing
>master cylinder but wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one. I
>am noticing that every 5th time that I brake, the brake pedal will go
>down to the floor more significantly than normal. What is odd is that
>this is only occurring when the rotors warm up. In the morning I do
>not notice this, but could also be because of highway driving. Do I
>have a master cylinder which is beginning to fail? Also I see that the
>OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
>Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
>other reason why I should go with OEM?
>
>Thanks in advance for all of your help,
>Nick

Your symptom sounds more like water in the fluid (it boils when it gets hot
and that changes the braking performance) than a bad master cylinder. Try
bleeding new fluid through the system and out at the wheels to clean out the
lines. If you have ABS, that fluid is separate from the main system and
should also be changed.

Also check the condition of the pads and calipers at the wheels to make sure
you don't have a binding caliper creating excessive heat and wear. The
easiest check is to swing open the caliper as if changing the pads and
verify that the caliper pins slide in and out freely.

On 8/9/04 6:20 AM, in article haneh0dicpao1unqammi07coap4codkomv@4ax.com,
"Nick" <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:

> One additional thing I forgot to mention was that I have replaced the
> reservoir fluid 3 times by siphoning it out without any luck. Also, I
> haven't needed to refill the reservoir so I don't think that there is
> a leak in any of the lines.
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
>
>
> On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 07:10:52 -0400, Nick
> <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I got a problem which I think is being caused by a failing
>> master cylinder but wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one. I
>> am noticing that every 5th time that I brake, the brake pedal will go
>> down to the floor more significantly than normal. What is odd is that
>> this is only occurring when the rotors warm up. In the morning I do
>> not notice this, but could also be because of highway driving. Do I
>> have a master cylinder which is beginning to fail? Also I see that the
>> OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
>> Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
>> other reason why I should go with OEM?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for all of your help,
>> Nick
>
>

||OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
||Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
||other reason why I should go with OEM?

I installed a Cardone reman master cylinder on my 1985 Mazda road-race car.
That was about 5 years and countless 120 mph to 70mph braking occasions. Still
works fine. Bought a Mazda new MC last year "just in case" but have had no
reason to change it yet.
Cardone is the only US rebuilder of MCs as far as I know, other than regional
companies. Don't be afraid of this option.
Texas Parts Guy

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 15:49:01 GMT, "E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org> wrote:

||Your symptom sounds more like water in the fluid (it boils when it gets hot
||and that changes the braking performance) than a bad master cylinder. Try
||bleeding new fluid through the system and out at the wheels to clean out the
||lines. If you have ABS, that fluid is separate from the main system and
||should also be changed.

Are you saying there are 2 separate fluid circuits for brake and ABS?
I've not heard of that. Could you explain how that works?
Texas Parts Guy

I have to disagree, even though what you say is true.

I bet it is your MC. I just replaced mine on my 91 Prelude
and when it got hot out, the pedal sinking was much more
common.

Easy fix, did it myself, new (not rebuilt) MC from a local
import parts shop was $70. I would not pay the OEM
cost.

Bench bleed the MC, bleed all 4 lines. You'll end up with
a new MC, new brake fluid, and a pedal that won't sink
to the floor anymore when the temperature rises.

"E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:BD3D071C.93750%e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org...
> Your symptom sounds more like water in the fluid (it boils when it gets
hot
> and that changes the braking performance) than a bad master cylinder. Try
> bleeding new fluid through the system and out at the wheels to clean out
the
> lines. If you have ABS, that fluid is separate from the main system and
> should also be changed.
>
> Also check the condition of the pads and calipers at the wheels to make
sure
> you don't have a binding caliper creating excessive heat and wear. The
> easiest check is to swing open the caliper as if changing the pads and
> verify that the caliper pins slide in and out freely.
>
> On 8/9/04 6:20 AM, in article haneh0dicpao1unqammi07coap4codkomv@4ax.com,
> "Nick" <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > One additional thing I forgot to mention was that I have replaced the
> > reservoir fluid 3 times by siphoning it out without any luck. Also, I
> > haven't needed to refill the reservoir so I don't think that there is
> > a leak in any of the lines.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Nick
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 07:10:52 -0400, Nick
> > <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hello all,
> >>
> >> I got a problem which I think is being caused by a failing
> >> master cylinder but wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one. I
> >> am noticing that every 5th time that I brake, the brake pedal will go
> >> down to the floor more significantly than normal. What is odd is that
> >> this is only occurring when the rotors warm up. In the morning I do
> >> not notice this, but could also be because of highway driving. Do I
> >> have a master cylinder which is beginning to fail? Also I see that the
> >> OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
> >> Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
> >> other reason why I should go with OEM?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for all of your help,
> >> Nick
> >
> >
>

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 17:53:16 GMT, rex@@txol.net (Rex B) wrote:

>
>||OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
>||Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
>||other reason why I should go with OEM?
>
>I installed a Cardone reman master cylinder on my 1985 Mazda road-race car.
>That was about 5 years and countless 120 mph to 70mph braking occasions. Still
>works fine. Bought a Mazda new MC last year "just in case" but have had no
>reason to change it yet.
> Cardone is the only US rebuilder of MCs as far as I know, other than regional
>companies. Don't be afraid of this option.
>Texas Parts Guy

Thanks for the tip.

I agree that the symptoms sound like a Honda MC failure. At least
that's what my '94 GS-R was like when it failed.

I can confirm that Integras of this vintage had dual fluid systems,
one for service and one for ABS. Can't explain why right now, guess I
will study the manual when I get bored.

Thanks for the advice. I will get a new MC this weekend, install it
and bleed the brakes.

Thanks,
Nick

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 20:07:10 GMT, <olllllllo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>I have to disagree, even though what you say is true.
>
>I bet it is your MC. I just replaced mine on my 91 Prelude
>and when it got hot out, the pedal sinking was much more
>common.
>
>Easy fix, did it myself, new (not rebuilt) MC from a local
>import parts shop was $70. I would not pay the OEM
>cost.
>
>Bench bleed the MC, bleed all 4 lines. You'll end up with
>a new MC, new brake fluid, and a pedal that won't sink
>to the floor anymore when the temperature rises.
>
>"E. Meyer" <e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org> wrote in message
>news:BD3D071C.93750%e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org...
>> Your symptom sounds more like water in the fluid (it boils when it gets
>hot
>> and that changes the braking performance) than a bad master cylinder. Try
>> bleeding new fluid through the system and out at the wheels to clean out
>the
>> lines. If you have ABS, that fluid is separate from the main system and
>> should also be changed.
>>
>> Also check the condition of the pads and calipers at the wheels to make
>sure
>> you don't have a binding caliper creating excessive heat and wear. The
>> easiest check is to swing open the caliper as if changing the pads and
>> verify that the caliper pins slide in and out freely.
>>
>> On 8/9/04 6:20 AM, in article haneh0dicpao1unqammi07coap4codkomv@4ax.com,
>> "Nick" <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> > One additional thing I forgot to mention was that I have replaced the
>> > reservoir fluid 3 times by siphoning it out without any luck. Also, I
>> > haven't needed to refill the reservoir so I don't think that there is
>> > a leak in any of the lines.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Nick
>> >
>> >
>> > On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 07:10:52 -0400, Nick
>> > <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hello all,
>> >>
>> >> I got a problem which I think is being caused by a failing
>> >> master cylinder but wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one. I
>> >> am noticing that every 5th time that I brake, the brake pedal will go
>> >> down to the floor more significantly than normal. What is odd is that
>> >> this is only occurring when the rotors warm up. In the morning I do
>> >> not notice this, but could also be because of highway driving. Do I
>> >> have a master cylinder which is beginning to fail? Also I see that the
>> >> OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
>> >> Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
>> >> other reason why I should go with OEM?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance for all of your help,
>> >> Nick
>> >
>> >
>>
>

> > On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 07:10:52 -0400, Nick
> > <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hello all,
> >>
> >> I got a problem which I think is being caused by a failing
> >> master cylinder but wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one. I
> >> am noticing that every 5th time that I brake, the brake pedal will go
> >> down to the floor more significantly than normal. What is odd is that
> >> this is only occurring when the rotors warm up. In the morning I do
> >> not notice this, but could also be because of highway driving. Do I
> >> have a master cylinder which is beginning to fail? Also I see that the
> >> OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
> >> Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
> >> other reason why I should go with OEM?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for all of your help,
> >> Nick

This is a known issue with the Acuras. The master cylinder
simply needs to be replaced. Do NOT go the the dealer. Get one
off eBay ( where I did ) for around $80.00, then have it
installed by a small local auto shop. The whole thing was less
than $150.00. The Aura dealer wanted $225.00 for labor +
parts. Yeah, right...and monkeys might fly out of my butt.

--

**:::::>>:§«:*´`³¤³´`*:»§:<<:::::**
.·°~ §LëAzZÿ WëA§ëL ~°·.
**:::::>>:§«:*´`³¤³´`*:»§:<<:::::**

{ô¿ô} WrOnG NuMbEr RoCoCcO, yOu .·°~ §LëAzZÿ WëA§ëL ~°·.

Thanks for the info! I am probably going to get a remanufactured one
for now since it's about $60. I'm going to install it myself and it
doesn't look to be too difficult to do.

Nick


On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 07:28:11 -0400, .·°~ §LëAzZÿ WëA§ëL ~°·.
<nospam@here.com> wrote:

>> > On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 07:10:52 -0400, Nick
>> > <npolite@NOSPAMMONKEYS.yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hello all,
>> >>
>> >> I got a problem which I think is being caused by a failing
>> >> master cylinder but wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one. I
>> >> am noticing that every 5th time that I brake, the brake pedal will go
>> >> down to the floor more significantly than normal. What is odd is that
>> >> this is only occurring when the rotors warm up. In the morning I do
>> >> not notice this, but could also be because of highway driving. Do I
>> >> have a master cylinder which is beginning to fail? Also I see that the
>> >> OEM master cylinder costs about $250 and one from Autozone costs $50.
>> >> Besides that the one from Autozone is a rebuilt one, is there any
>> >> other reason why I should go with OEM?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance for all of your help,
>> >> Nick
>
>This is a known issue with the Acuras. The master cylinder
>simply needs to be replaced. Do NOT go the the dealer. Get one
>off eBay ( where I did ) for around $80.00, then have it
>installed by a small local auto shop. The whole thing was less
>than $150.00. The Aura dealer wanted $225.00 for labor +
>parts. Yeah, right...and monkeys might fly out of my butt.