Honda Car Forum

Is it possible to jack up one whole side of my new 2004 civic in one
shot? I have a big jack and wanted to do indy 500 style tire
rotations with my air wrench.

On 8 Apr 2004 04:19:59 -0700, roden@frontiernet.net (John Roden)
wrote:

>Is it possible to jack up one whole side of my new 2004 civic in one
>shot? I have a big jack and wanted to do indy 500 style tire
>rotations with my air wrench.

The balace is off if you use the provided jacking points. You have to
get the front a long way off the ground to get the rear tire up.
How about a length of two-by-four with notches at each end to fit the
jacking points, then apply your jack to the center of balance in the
middle?

On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 07:20:43 -0700, John Ings <nodamned@spam.org> wrote:

||On 8 Apr 2004 04:19:59 -0700, roden@frontiernet.net (John Roden)
||wrote:
||
||>Is it possible to jack up one whole side of my new 2004 civic in one
||>shot? I have a big jack and wanted to do indy 500 style tire
||>rotations with my air wrench.
||
||The balace is off if you use the provided jacking points. You have to
||get the front a long way off the ground to get the rear tire up.
||How about a length of two-by-four with notches at each end to fit the
||jacking points, then apply your jack to the center of balance in the
||middle?

You can get a device that mounts to your floor jack cradel that has extendable
arms ending in pads that will do exactly what your 2x4 would - except it would
work. About $40
Rex in Fort Worth

roden@frontiernet.net (John Roden) spake unto the masses in
news:f0f5d98f.0404080319.8162a8e@posting.google.co m:

> Is it possible to jack up one whole side of my new 2004 civic in one
> shot? I have a big jack and wanted to do indy 500 style tire
> rotations with my air wrench.



Uhhh...

You really HAVE to get back to work that fast?


--
TeGGeR®

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John Roden wrote:
> Is it possible to jack up one whole side of my new 2004 civic in one
> shot? I have a big jack and wanted to do indy 500 style tire
> rotations with my air wrench.

================

On the CRV, which is probably similar, I put a piece of 2 x 6 against
the chassis 1/2 way between the jack points, but in, under the car, not
on the plastic trim. I mean the square tubular steel part, about a foot
or more under.
--
Bear in mind that you mustn't tighten your lug nuts beyond ~ 80
foot-pounds, so you only get to have half the fun, unless you also have
on of them fancy torque-limiting socket attachment$.

'Curly'

=============

I won't dare trying this in SoCal. Using a jack without the saddle gripping
the car is a no no. Usually I'm not afraid of earthquake. However, when
working on a car, I don't want to be crushed.

You never had problem with the 2x6 sliding?

"'Curly Q. Links'" wrote:

> On the CRV, which is probably similar, I put a piece of 2 x 6 against
> the chassis 1/2 way between the jack points, but in, under the car, not
> on the plastic trim. I mean the square tubular steel part, about a foot
> or more under.
> --
> Bear in mind that you mustn't tighten your lug nuts beyond ~ 80
> foot-pounds, so you only get to have half the fun, unless you also have
> on of them fancy torque-limiting socket attachment$.
>
> 'Curly'
>
> =============

Sean Dinh wrote:
> I won't dare trying this in SoCal. Using a jack without the saddle gripping
> the car is a no no. Usually I'm not afraid of earthquake. However, when
> working on a car, I don't want to be crushed.
>
> You never had problem with the 2x6 sliding?
>
> "'Curly Q. Links'" wrote:
>
>

================
Sean,

Good point, but on the CRV, I just loosen all 10 lugnuts, put the 2x6
between the top of the jack and the body member and give it a few
cranks. Both wheels lift off by an inch or so, I swap them, putting two
nuts on each wheel, and lower it back down to the ground.

Then I add the remaining nuts and tighten all cross-wise.

I'm glad you mentioned the earthquake risk . . . . that's one variable
I'd never thought of, and it's not entirely unheard of on the Canadian
Prairies. Thanks!

'Curly'
-

EEEKS! I don't mean jack it up to lay under. I'd always use ramps or
stands if any part of me was under the thing, it's just for roatating
the tires. I'll try the wood block thing, or just use a stand under
the one end, it's just every 10,000 miles, I guess.

As a PS, I just got back (to near Buffalo, NY where the last of the
snow is gone) from San Diego, boy that's another world out there. You
need to spread some salt and water solution on the roads to get rid of
all those old rust free cars like we do up here.


"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message news:<40776532.4010908@interbaun.com>...
> Sean Dinh wrote:
> > I won't dare trying this in SoCal. Using a jack without the saddle gripping
> > the car is a no no. Usually I'm not afraid of earthquake. However, when
> > working on a car, I don't want to be crushed.
> >
> > You never had problem with the 2x6 sliding?
> >
> > "'Curly Q. Links'" wrote:
> >
> >
>
> ================
> Sean,
>
> Good point, but on the CRV, I just loosen all 10 lugnuts, put the 2x6
> between the top of the jack and the body member and give it a few
> cranks. Both wheels lift off by an inch or so, I swap them, putting two
> nuts on each wheel, and lower it back down to the ground.
>
> Then I add the remaining nuts and tighten all cross-wise.
>
> I'm glad you mentioned the earthquake risk . . . . that's one variable
> I'd never thought of, and it's not entirely unheard of on the Canadian
> Prairies. Thanks!
>
> 'Curly'
> -