Honda Car Forum

For a 1992 accord Lx with auto transmission. Is the plug the one that is at
the passenger side bottom facing the right front wheel? cause there is only
one such plug I can find that needs a 3/8'' ratchet to loose. I pulled the
ratchet arm hard but couldn't get it loosed even a little bit. Should I find
a ratchet with much longer arm or any good suggestion? I was afraid greater
torque could damage the plug housing or even the oil pan. Thanks ahead!

On 4/7/04 9:35 AM, in article c513ng$4h6$1@newsreader.wustl.edu, "XG"
<gungxu@yahoo.com> wrote:

> For a 1992 accord Lx with auto transmission. Is the plug the one that is at
> the passenger side bottom facing the right front wheel? cause there is only
> one such plug I can find that needs a 3/8'' ratchet to loose. I pulled the
> ratchet arm hard but couldn't get it loosed even a little bit. Should I find
> a ratchet with much longer arm or any good suggestion? I was afraid greater
> torque could damage the plug housing or even the oil pan. Thanks ahead!
>
>
Honda drain plugs are notoriously hard to remove. Use a hardened breaker
bar and put the 4 foot gas pipe on the end of it for leverage.

E. Meyer <e.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org> wrote:
> On 4/7/04 9:35 AM, in article c513ng$4h6$1@newsreader.wustl.edu, "XG"
> <gungxu@yahoo.com> wrote:

>> For a 1992 accord Lx with auto transmission. Is the plug the one that is at

> Honda drain plugs are notoriously hard to remove. Use a hardened breaker
> bar and put the 4 foot gas pipe on the end of it for leverage.

I had a Datsun with a cast iron filler plug in an aluminum transmission.
It couldn't be removed with conventional tools. My dad put a four foot
pipe wrench on it and pushed with his legs while holding onto the front
bumper. The engine/transmission torqued in the frame, but the bolt didn't
come loose.

The Datsun dealer said they didn't even bother trying to take out the
filler plug. They refilled the transmission through the backup light
switch hole. So did I.

--
---
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5

XG wrote:
> For a 1992 accord Lx with auto transmission. Is the plug the one that is at
> the passenger side bottom facing the right front wheel? cause there is only
> one such plug I can find that needs a 3/8'' ratchet to loose. I pulled the
> ratchet arm hard but couldn't get it loosed even a little bit. Should I find
> a ratchet with much longer arm or any good suggestion? I was afraid greater
> torque could damage the plug housing or even the oil pan. Thanks ahead!
>
>
They're tight, alright... That's why the copper thing is called a 'crush
washer'. I wouldn't think of re-tightening it so tight. (I'll be older
next time i have to open it) :-)

Just tap your handle with a 4 pound sledge.

'Curly'

In article <c513ng$4h6$1@newsreader.wustl.edu>, "XG" <gungxu@yahoo.com> wrote:

>For a 1992 accord Lx with auto transmission. Is the plug the one that is at
>the passenger side bottom facing the right front wheel? cause there is only
>one such plug I can find that needs a 3/8'' ratchet to loose. I pulled the
>ratchet arm hard but couldn't get it loosed even a little bit. Should I find
>a ratchet with much longer arm or any good suggestion? I was afraid greater
>torque could damage the plug housing or even the oil pan. Thanks ahead!

I use a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 1/2"-3/8" reducer.
You want to do it right the first time. If you mess up the 3/8" recess,
you're pretty much screwed!
This is a case where you might want to rent/buy a quality tool. Often the
cheap ones just don't fit the recess very well and want to round it
off/out.
I don't recommend the hammer method, because it's too easy to get things
out of line.

When removing the bolt...there is some grease at the tip of the bolt.
I've read in some postings that you should clean this off...is that
true?

Thanks,
Nick

On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 14:51:06 -0700, bkapaun@hotdeletemail.com wrote:

>In article <c513ng$4h6$1@newsreader.wustl.edu>, "XG" <gungxu@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>For a 1992 accord Lx with auto transmission. Is the plug the one that is at
>>the passenger side bottom facing the right front wheel? cause there is only
>>one such plug I can find that needs a 3/8'' ratchet to loose. I pulled the
>>ratchet arm hard but couldn't get it loosed even a little bit. Should I find
>>a ratchet with much longer arm or any good suggestion? I was afraid greater
>>torque could damage the plug housing or even the oil pan. Thanks ahead!
>
>I use a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 1/2"-3/8" reducer.
>You want to do it right the first time. If you mess up the 3/8" recess,
>you're pretty much screwed!
>This is a case where you might want to rent/buy a quality tool. Often the
>cheap ones just don't fit the recess very well and want to round it
>off/out.
>I don't recommend the hammer method, because it's too easy to get things
>out of line.

Nick wrote:
> When removing the bolt...there is some grease at the tip of the bolt.
> I've read in some postings that you should clean this off...is that
> true?
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
>

===================

Yes, Nick, you should remove it, but it's certainly not grease. That's a
magnetic bolt, and the 'clump' of stuff is super fine iron filings that
have stuck to the magnet, and it does resemble a blob of black grease.

If you really wanted to keep on top of your tranny's condition, you
could pull that bolt every 6 months and see if there's much new stuff on
it. I'm not sure how you'd interpret the findings.

Of course there's lots of other contaminants that can only be removed by
draining and refilling, especially the friction surfaces that are
non-ferrous, as well as moisture and dirt. Not to mention the fluid
itself loses it's viscosity with time / wear.

'Curly'