Honda Car Forum

Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have pneumatic tools?
Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on. Using a
cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it STILL
wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger side
front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an new
rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the rotor last
time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake done...
$#%*&!

Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together, and drive
over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come home and
do it right..

Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year of
college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative cash
flow...

TIA!
Regards,
KWW

I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes, and then
attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it should
come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but obviously
not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure that these
rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them off and
machining them on the machine?

I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and later
(which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models are done
on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about $25
than pay to have them turned.

CaptainKrunch


"KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have pneumatic
tools?
> Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on. Using a
> cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it STILL
> wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger side
> front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an new
> rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the rotor
last
> time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake
done...
> $#%*&!
>
> Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together, and
drive
> over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come home
and
> do it right..
>
> Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year of
> college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative cash
> flow...
>
> TIA!
> Regards,
> KWW
>
>

Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the brakes
back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a penumatic
wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could drive back
home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the back of the
assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the regular
10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet another
tool so I can get the rotors off.
KWW
"CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes, and then
> attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it
should
> come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but obviously
> not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure that
these
> rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them off
and
> machining them on the machine?
>
> I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and later
> (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models are
done
> on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about $25
> than pay to have them turned.
>
> CaptainKrunch
>
>
> "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have pneumatic
> tools?
> > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on. Using a
> > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it
STILL
> > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger side
> > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an new
> > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the rotor
> last
> > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake
> done...
> > $#%*&!
> >
> > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together, and
> drive
> > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come home
> and
> > do it right..
> >
> > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year of
> > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative cash
> > flow...
> >
> > TIA!
> > Regards,
> > KWW
> >
> >
>
>

Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement bolts and
probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use anti-seize
compound on that nut and the other related components for future removal. I
found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.

CaptainKrunch


"KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the brakes
> back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a penumatic
> wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could drive back
> home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the back of
the
> assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
regular
> 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet another
> tool so I can get the rotors off.
> KWW
> "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes, and
then
> > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it
> should
> > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
obviously
> > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure that
> these
> > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them off
> and
> > machining them on the machine?
> >
> > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and later
> > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models are
> done
> > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about $25
> > than pay to have them turned.
> >
> > CaptainKrunch
> >
> >
> > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have pneumatic
> > tools?
> > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on. Using
a
> > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it
> STILL
> > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger
side
> > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an
new
> > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the rotor
> > last
> > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake
> > done...
> > > $#%*&!
> > >
> > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together, and
> > drive
> > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come
home
> > and
> > > do it right..
> > >
> > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year
of
> > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative
cash
> > > flow...
> > >
> > > TIA!
> > > Regards,
> > > KWW
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Ya know, that is a darn good idea! I have antiseize that I use on the
sparkplug threads... this would be a good application for it. I WAS going
to reuse the staked nut... I guess if it isn't too dear it would be good to
buy. I had just figured that, since I would only be torquing it to specs
(245 Nm) it wouldn't be stopping at the same place it had been staked last
time. It could be slightly damaged by the shock of the air wrench,
though.... I am not in a rush since I drive my Beetle to/from work so I
might as well check.

I feel like using vice grips to take off those torx bolts just so I don't
have to buy the wrenches.... if only I were sure I could get non torx
bolts...

--
KWW
'63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
'64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
"CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:4LSdneYPWvp0pqXdRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement bolts
and
> probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use
anti-seize
> compound on that nut and the other related components for future removal.
I
> found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
> antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.
>
> CaptainKrunch
>
>
> "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> > Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the
brakes
> > back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a
penumatic
> > wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could drive
back
> > home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the back of
> the
> > assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
> regular
> > 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet another
> > tool so I can get the rotors off.
> > KWW
> > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes, and
> then
> > > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it
> > should
> > > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
> obviously
> > > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure that
> > these
> > > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them
off
> > and
> > > machining them on the machine?
> > >
> > > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and
later
> > > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models
are
> > done
> > > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about
$25
> > > than pay to have them turned.
> > >
> > > CaptainKrunch
> > >
> > >
> > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have
pneumatic
> > > tools?
> > > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on.
Using
> a
> > > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and it
> > STILL
> > > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the passenger
> side
> > > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get an
> new
> > > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the
rotor
> > > last
> > > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front brake
> > > done...
> > > > $#%*&!
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together,
and
> > > drive
> > > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come
> home
> > > and
> > > > do it right..
> > > >
> > > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd year
> of
> > > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative
> cash
> > > > flow...
> > > >
> > > > TIA!
> > > > Regards,
> > > > KWW
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

I would imagine they would be easy to get at the dealership. Take them in
and see if they match up. You could also try a hardware store but you might
not get the bolts the correct of amount of hardness. A fastener company
will also have those bolts but I would try the dealer first. The service
manual should state the size of the bolt in the exploded view drawing.

CaptainKrunch


"KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
news:T62_b.367046$I06.3828491@attbi_s01...
> Ya know, that is a darn good idea! I have antiseize that I use on the
> sparkplug threads... this would be a good application for it. I WAS going
> to reuse the staked nut... I guess if it isn't too dear it would be good
to
> buy. I had just figured that, since I would only be torquing it to specs
> (245 Nm) it wouldn't be stopping at the same place it had been staked last
> time. It could be slightly damaged by the shock of the air wrench,
> though.... I am not in a rush since I drive my Beetle to/from work so I
> might as well check.
>
> I feel like using vice grips to take off those torx bolts just so I don't
> have to buy the wrenches.... if only I were sure I could get non torx
> bolts...
>
> --
> KWW
> '63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
> '64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
> "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> news:4LSdneYPWvp0pqXdRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> > Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement bolts
> and
> > probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use
> anti-seize
> > compound on that nut and the other related components for future
removal.
> I
> > found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
> > antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.
> >
> > CaptainKrunch
> >
> >
> > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> > > Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the
> brakes
> > > back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a
> penumatic
> > > wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could drive
> back
> > > home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the back
of
> > the
> > > assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
> > regular
> > > 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet
another
> > > tool so I can get the rotors off.
> > > KWW
> > > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > > news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > > > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes,
and
> > then
> > > > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine it
> > > should
> > > > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
> > obviously
> > > > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure
that
> > > these
> > > > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking them
> off
> > > and
> > > > machining them on the machine?
> > > >
> > > > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and
> later
> > > > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later models
> are
> > > done
> > > > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for about
> $25
> > > > than pay to have them turned.
> > > >
> > > > CaptainKrunch
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have
> pneumatic
> > > > tools?
> > > > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on.
> Using
> > a
> > > > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing and
it
> > > STILL
> > > > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the
passenger
> > side
> > > > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get
an
> > new
> > > > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the
> rotor
> > > > last
> > > > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front
brake
> > > > done...
> > > > > $#%*&!
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it together,
> and
> > > > drive
> > > > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can come
> > home
> > > > and
> > > > > do it right..
> > > > >
> > > > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd
year
> > of
> > > > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall. Negative
> > cash
> > > > > flow...
> > > > >
> > > > > TIA!
> > > > > Regards,
> > > > > KWW
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Got replacement bolts at dealership ($$) but, on the other hand, one of the
bolts was rounded and neither I nor the LAP couldn't get it out for ANYTHING
.... and the dealer got it out and didn't charge me anything.... that was
nice of them.
Rotor is finally turned and ready to put back on..... course, it is raining
rather heavily outside..... Guess I drive the Beetle again tomorrow in the
rain.
--
KWW
'63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
'64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
"CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:iIqdnSSn_-exQqXdRVn-hg@comcast.com...
> I would imagine they would be easy to get at the dealership. Take them in
> and see if they match up. You could also try a hardware store but you
might
> not get the bolts the correct of amount of hardness. A fastener company
> will also have those bolts but I would try the dealer first. The service
> manual should state the size of the bolt in the exploded view drawing.
>
> CaptainKrunch
>
>
> "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> news:T62_b.367046$I06.3828491@attbi_s01...
> > Ya know, that is a darn good idea! I have antiseize that I use on the
> > sparkplug threads... this would be a good application for it. I WAS
going
> > to reuse the staked nut... I guess if it isn't too dear it would be good
> to
> > buy. I had just figured that, since I would only be torquing it to
specs
> > (245 Nm) it wouldn't be stopping at the same place it had been staked
last
> > time. It could be slightly damaged by the shock of the air wrench,
> > though.... I am not in a rush since I drive my Beetle to/from work so I
> > might as well check.
> >
> > I feel like using vice grips to take off those torx bolts just so I
don't
> > have to buy the wrenches.... if only I were sure I could get non torx
> > bolts...
> >
> > --
> > KWW
> > '63 Beetle (Jenny the IOC)
> > '64 Beetle (TBD the Blue Wave)
> > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > news:4LSdneYPWvp0pqXdRVn-gw@comcast.com...
> > > Well I would go to the Honda place and get the correct replacement
bolts
> > and
> > > probably a new drive axle nut. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use
> > anti-seize
> > > compound on that nut and the other related components for future
> removal.
> > I
> > > found the hub of my pancake rotor was rusted in pretty good. I put
> > > antiseize on it and the next time I took it off it was fine to remove.
> > >
> > > CaptainKrunch
> > >
> > >
> > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > news:SmWZb.96634$jk2.454776@attbi_s53...
> > > > Thanks... tried the penetrating oil route... finally had to put the
> > brakes
> > > > back together and drive to a garage... they worked at it with a
> > penumatic
> > > > wrench and finally they came lose. Retightened them so I could
drive
> > back
> > > > home. Interestingly, the car ends up having "torx" bolts on the
back
> of
> > > the
> > > > assembly, how that I've separated it from the drive axles. (not the
> > > regular
> > > > 10, 11, or 12mm bolts like the manual shows... so off to buy yet
> another
> > > > tool so I can get the rotors off.
> > > > KWW
> > > > "CaptainKrunch" <nothing@nobody.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:Gridnbtf48cqDardRVn-ug@comcast.com...
> > > > > I would spray penetrating oil on it and let it set a few minutes,
> and
> > > then
> > > > > attempt the socket, ratchet, cheater bar method. I would imagine
it
> > > > should
> > > > > come off after that. It is unusual to have them that tight but
> > > obviously
> > > > > not impossible. Maybe let it set longer than that. Are you sure
> that
> > > > these
> > > > > rotors are not "machine on the car" rotors as opposed to taking
them
> > off
> > > > and
> > > > > machining them on the machine?
> > > > >
> > > > > I am not familiar with the setup of the 93 models, just the 96 and
> > later
> > > > > (which is the same as the 94 and up I believe) and the later
models
> > are
> > > > done
> > > > > on the car. It is actually cheaper to purchase new rotors for
about
> > $25
> > > > > than pay to have them turned.
> > > > >
> > > > > CaptainKrunch
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:V7MZb.361113$I06.3785820@attbi_s01...
> > > > > > Any great ideas for the "do it yourselfer" who doesn't have
> > pneumatic
> > > > > tools?
> > > > > > Some bozo use one heck of an air wrench putting this thing on.
> > Using
> > > a
> > > > > > cheater bar I put over 425 ft-lbs of torque on the darn thing
and
> it
> > > > STILL
> > > > > > wouldn't come off!!! It is the drive axle hub nut on the
> passenger
> > > side
> > > > > > front of a '93 Accord. I must get the rotors turned - maybe get
> an
> > > new
> > > > > > rotor. At least now I believe I know why the PO didn't turn the
> > rotor
> > > > > last
> > > > > > time. Thing is, before he sold it, he had the passenger front
> brake
> > > > > done...
> > > > > > $#%*&!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Anyway, my alternative is to stick new shoes on, slap it
together,
> > and
> > > > > drive
> > > > > > over to a shop to pay them to loosen it. At least then I can
come
> > > home
> > > > > and
> > > > > > do it right..
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Why not pay to have the brakes done? I have one kid in his 2nd
> year
> > > of
> > > > > > college and my 2nd (of 3) is starting college this fall.
Negative
> > > cash
> > > > > > flow...
> > > > > >
> > > > > > TIA!
> > > > > > Regards,
> > > > > > KWW
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>