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I noticed lately that the effective range of my garage door opener
is greatly reduced when the engine is running vis-a-vis when it is not. This was not always the case and wonder if it may have something to do with some kind of electrical shielding removed or disconnected during one of the regular maintenace visits at my Honda dealer. The car is a '94 Accord LX model that otherwise runs just fine. The only reason I can imagine for this behavior is that somehow the electro-magnetic field around the running engine is interfering with the garage door opener's RF signal but I'd like to hear from anybody knowledgeable on this subject. I have no idea what exactly a service technician could have done to cause this effect. Rudy |
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In article <sqWdnXwQeKPSGpbd4p2dnA@comcast.com>,
"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote: > I noticed lately that the effective range of my garage door opener > is greatly reduced when the engine is running vis-a-vis when it is not. > This was not always the case and wonder if it may have something to do > with some kind of electrical shielding removed or disconnected during > one of the regular maintenace visits at my Honda dealer. The car is a > '94 Accord LX model that otherwise runs just fine. > The only reason I can imagine for this behavior is that somehow the > electro-magnetic field around the running engine is interfering with the > garage door opener's RF signal but I'd like to hear from anybody > knowledgeable on this subject. I have no idea what exactly a service > technician could have done to cause this effect. > > Rudy > Do you get buzz or pops on the AM radio? If so, an ignition wire could have a broken conductor. |
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Rudy, newer remote controls are more sensitive to rf interference
because they are now transceivers instead of just transmitters. The antenna and environment around the operator itself is essentially unchanged but now the itty bitty antenna in the remote must also be a receiver to negotiate an offset for rolling code security. this little antenna is more susceptible to shielding, gain fluctuation and noise. Your ignition wires are likely starting to break down and having their effect on a marginal transmission. Try a new battery, also try relocating the remote - remember that rf energy falls off at the square of the distance so what you might consider a negligible 6 inch offset in location appears to the receiver like 3 feet. |
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"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<sqWdnXwQeKPSGpbd4p2dnA@comcast.com>...
> I noticed lately that the effective range of my garage door opener > is greatly reduced when the engine is running vis-a-vis when it is not. > This was not always the case and wonder if it may have something to do > with some kind of electrical shielding removed or disconnected during > one of the regular maintenace visits at my Honda dealer. The car is a > '94 Accord LX model that otherwise runs just fine. > The only reason I can imagine for this behavior is that somehow the > electro-magnetic field around the running engine is interfering with the > garage door opener's RF signal but I'd like to hear from anybody > knowledgeable on this subject. I have no idea what exactly a service > technician could have done to cause this effect. > > Rudy Is the transmitter one that is built into the visor or roof console or is it a standard garage door opener transmitter that is normally hung on the visor w/ a clip? If it is built-in I would guess that something like a short is drawing off the transmitter power when the car is running. If it is a stand alone transmitter the transmitter battery could be weak (do not use alkaline batteries) or the transmitter could be slightly out of tune and the running engine blocks out the weak signal. There is also the chance that your receiver in the garage is sending out a weaker signal then what it use to. Doordoc www.DoorsAndOpeners.com |
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"Doordoc" <doordoc@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Is the transmitter one that is built into the visor or roof console or > is it a standard garage door opener transmitter that is normally hung > on the visor w/ a clip? If it is built-in I would guess that something > like a short is drawing off the transmitter power when the car is > running. If it is a stand alone transmitter the transmitter battery > could be weak (do not use alkaline batteries) or the transmitter could > be slightly out of tune and the running engine blocks out the weak > signal. There is also the chance that your receiver in the garage is > sending out a weaker signal then what it use to. I have the same old hand held garage door opener I've had before this problem started. It is NOT one of those newer, more secure openers with the rolling or encrypted code. Replacing the battery seems to make no difference. There must be some kind of RF interference emitted from the running car that seems to act as a jammer on the garage door transmitter and I figure it must have started after one of the regular service visits but I did not make the mental connection right away. I used to be able to open or close the garage from the street at the end of my driweway but now I have to work at it with the car's front almost touching the garage door. It's really frustrating. Rudy |
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It maybe just a coincidence between the recent service on the car and
the door opener not receiving as well. It is possible that something in the house is causing the door opener to not receive the transmitters signal as well. You may have a situation where the door opener receiver is being desensed or overloaded with an unwanted signal. A baby monitor, cordless phone are some possibilities. This doesn't have anything to do with a door opener but I once had an interference problem with my satellite dish on certain channels. I eventually traced it down to a UPS on my computer. So maybe something as innocuous as this might be interfering. Start by turning things off in the house and see where that may lead you. I installed two openers in my parents garages a number of years ago. Both worked equally well but then one day my mother was complaining that the door on her side of the garage wasn't working as well. She complained that she had to be right in front of the door to open it. We tried a new battery in the transmitter but that didn't help. What it turned out to be was my father decided to install brackets on the garage ceiling to hang his aluminum ladder in order to get it off the floor of the garage. The ladder was causing the door opener mechanism to not receive as well. Removing the ladder from the ceiling made the opener operate as it should. Putting it back and the problem reappeared. An adjustment on the little wire antenna improved reception but not like it was without the ladder being near the opener. But first try reorienting the little wire antenna on the door opening mechanism if it has one sticking out the back. Just a few ideas. Hope this helps. Bob "R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<rtqdnUNosI12LJHdRVn-vw@comcast.com>... > "Doordoc" <doordoc@prodigy.net> wrote: > > Is the transmitter one that is built into the visor or roof console or > > is it a standard garage door opener transmitter that is normally hung > > on the visor w/ a clip? If it is built-in I would guess that something > > like a short is drawing off the transmitter power when the car is > > running. If it is a stand alone transmitter the transmitter battery > > could be weak (do not use alkaline batteries) or the transmitter could > > be slightly out of tune and the running engine blocks out the weak > > signal. There is also the chance that your receiver in the garage is > > sending out a weaker signal then what it use to. > > I have the same old hand held garage door opener I've had before > this problem started. It is NOT one of those newer, more secure openers > with the rolling or encrypted code. Replacing the battery seems to make > no difference. There must be some kind of RF interference emitted from > the running car that seems to act as a jammer on the garage door > transmitter and I figure it must have started after one of the regular > service visits but I did not make the mental connection right away. I > used to be able to open or close the garage from the street at the end > of my driweway but now I have to work at it with the car's front almost > touching the garage door. It's really frustrating. > > Rudy |
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Rudy,
One other idea. Try using your handheld transmitter outside of the car with the car turned off and walking up and down your driveway. That should give you an idea if the car is interfering or not. "R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<rtqdnUNosI12LJHdRVn-vw@comcast.com>... > "Doordoc" <doordoc@prodigy.net> wrote: > > Is the transmitter one that is built into the visor or roof console or > > is it a standard garage door opener transmitter that is normally hung > > on the visor w/ a clip? If it is built-in I would guess that something > > like a short is drawing off the transmitter power when the car is > > running. If it is a stand alone transmitter the transmitter battery > > could be weak (do not use alkaline batteries) or the transmitter could > > be slightly out of tune and the running engine blocks out the weak > > signal. There is also the chance that your receiver in the garage is > > sending out a weaker signal then what it use to. > > I have the same old hand held garage door opener I've had before > this problem started. It is NOT one of those newer, more secure openers > with the rolling or encrypted code. Replacing the battery seems to make > no difference. There must be some kind of RF interference emitted from > the running car that seems to act as a jammer on the garage door > transmitter and I figure it must have started after one of the regular > service visits but I did not make the mental connection right away. I > used to be able to open or close the garage from the street at the end > of my driweway but now I have to work at it with the car's front almost > touching the garage door. It's really frustrating. > > Rudy |
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"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<rtqdnUNosI12LJHdRVn-vw@comcast.com>...
> "Doordoc" <doordoc@prodigy.net> wrote: > > Is the transmitter one that is built into the visor or roof console or > > is it a standard garage door opener transmitter that is normally hung > > on the visor w/ a clip? If it is built-in I would guess that something > > like a short is drawing off the transmitter power when the car is > > running. If it is a stand alone transmitter the transmitter battery > > could be weak (do not use alkaline batteries) or the transmitter could > > be slightly out of tune and the running engine blocks out the weak > > signal. There is also the chance that your receiver in the garage is > > sending out a weaker signal then what it use to. > > I have the same old hand held garage door opener I've had before > this problem started. It is NOT one of those newer, more secure openers > with the rolling or encrypted code. Replacing the battery seems to make > no difference. There must be some kind of RF interference emitted from > the running car that seems to act as a jammer on the garage door > transmitter and I figure it must have started after one of the regular > service visits but I did not make the mental connection right away. I > used to be able to open or close the garage from the street at the end > of my driweway but now I have to work at it with the car's front almost > touching the garage door. It's really frustrating. > > Rudy So if you put the transmitter in a different car w/ it running does it work or is the problem only there when it is in your car. This would narrow now whether the interfrence comes from your car or if the transmitter has a crack in the solder or loose part & it is the vibration of the car running causing the problem as opposed to a radio interference. I once see a problem where if the customer parked a particular car in the garage or driveway (without it running)all the transmitters quit working unless you touched the receiver antenna w/ the transmitter. If you took that one car down the street all of the transmitters worked fine. They were also old radio controls that the problem started w/ the car battery being changed. I reasoned that the interference was coming from his car alarm but his mechanics couldn't eliminate the problem. After a few weeks of fighting it, we ended up changing his receiver & transmitters to a different brand that was on a different frequency to get them to work. (His other choice would have been to sell the car, but he really liked the Mercedes convertible). However, it was one of those rare occasions that no-one really new for sure what was causing the problem. A thought that just comes to mind. Does your car have GPS or some time of satellite tracking system built in? If so disconnect it & see if the problem goes away. Doordoc www.DoorsAndOpeners.com |
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"Bob W." <rwalter@engineer.com> wrote:
> Rudy, > One other idea. Try using your handheld transmitter outside of the > car with the car turned off and walking up and down your driveway. > That should give you an idea if the car is interfering or not. Bob, you did not pay close attention to my original post which I started as so: "I noticed lately that the effective range of my garage door opener is greatly reduced when the engine is running vis-a-vis when it is not." That makes it obvious that it is something in the running engine. However, I may have found the source. Something in the heater control unit because when no button is pushed , the problem seems to be gone. This could explain why I have been experiencing the problem only recently. Because I have one of the heater buttons pressed only since the cold weather. Otherwise none of the heater buttons are pressed. I need to experiment more with this discovery but it looks like a promising lead. However I still am greatful for the helpful tips you all suggested. Rudy |
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