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I get no voltage to my starter solenoid. I've pulled the collar to the
ignition and Black?White get power when turning to START. I've checked the clutch interlock and it appears to be working....only to me it's backwards. It opens when you apply pedal and closes when you take your foot off the clutch. Does that make sense? NO! But it can't be any different than it was originally so I guess it's supposed to work that way. Anyway, the only thing I can figure is that there's a starter relay that's bad and I can't find it! Sorry, I'm a Chrysler guy, myself. An OLD Chrysler guy as I haven't been able to afford a new car since 1982....so have pity on an ol' man, would ya? Thanks in Advance. |
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If you have cruise control there will be two switches at the clutch
pedal. The lower one is for the cruise (one black and one pink wire), the one above is for the starter interlock (one black and one blue/black wire) The starter-interlock switch at the clutch pedal should be closed when you press the clutch all the way down, open otherwise. This switch grounds one side of a relay coil. If you measure the voltage between ground and the BLU/BLK wire on the switch you should see about 12V when you turn the key to start and do NOT step on the clutch, about 0 V under all other conditions. There is a clutch interlock relay at the side of the driver's foot well. This relay will make contact when the clutch pedal is pushed AND the ignition is in the start position. You can test this fairly easily: Measure the voltage between ground and fuse # 18. Most automotive fuses has recessed metal tabs on the front for easy access with voltmeter probes. If the interlock system is working, you should see about 12V at the fuse when you press the clutch and turn the ignition to start. If you post a real e-mail address I'll send you scans from the service manual indicating where the interlock relay is mounted. DUMBnEASY wrote: > > I get no voltage to my starter solenoid. I've pulled the collar to the > ignition and Black?White get power when turning to START. I've checked the > clutch interlock and it appears to be working....only to me it's backwards. It > opens when you apply pedal and closes when you take your foot off the clutch. > Does that make sense? NO! But it can't be any different than it was > originally so I guess it's supposed to work that way. > > Anyway, the only thing I can figure is that there's a starter relay that's bad > and I can't find it! > > Sorry, I'm a Chrysler guy, myself. An OLD Chrysler guy as I haven't been able > to afford a new car since 1982....so have pity on an ol' man, would ya? > > Thanks in Advance. |
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> A thought....Is the starter relay different from the main relay? I know where
> that is....LOL! Yes, it is different. The "main relay" is for the fuel injection system. The starter interlock relay is mounted a bit above the main relay. You should find a cluster of three relays, the two closest to the rear of the car are for the moon roof, the one to the front of the car in the starter interlock relay. What body style and trim level do you have? |
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I can't believe it! A Saturday night Savior! I DO appreciate it. The model
is a Civic LX 4 door. It does have manual tranny and cruise control. How stuff is starting to make sense. The switch I pulled out is backwards because it isn't the right one. Mine opens when pushed, which indicates the cruise control. Nes pax? LOL! Now a little tech thought more is needed. This is my tenant's car. I am 6'3" and about 240. Instead of coming up from underneath wouldn't it be easier for me to pull the instrument panel and go in on top? I'm terrific at pulling clusters; but I'm too (two-LOL!) big to get both hands up underneath the dash. Whadaya think? Can I get there that way? And once again-THANK YOU! |
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Not sure about pulling the cluster, there is a lot of stuff in the way
so I doubt you'd get access from above even with the cluster out of the way. What you should try is removing the lower dash panel and the knee bolster as this will give much better access to both the clutch pedal switch and the interlock relay. See page 20-82 of the service manual. For diagnosing the switch you don't really need access to it. You can do the measurements at the relay instead. Pull out the relay and measure continuity between the blue/black wire of the relay socket and ground. If the switch is working there should be continuity when you press the pedal all the way. If the switch is fine, measure the voltage between ground and the blue/white wire at the relay socket as you put the key in the start position (no need to step on the clutch). You should see battery voltage. Then measure voltage between ground and the black/white wire at the relay socket with the key in the start position (again no need to step on the clutch). Again you should see battery voltage. Assuming you found battery voltage in the two previous tests, plug the relay back in and measure the voltage at fuse #18 as you step on the clutch and turn the key to start. You should see battery voltage. If you don't, it is most likely a faulty starter cut relay. DUMBnEASY wrote: > > I can't believe it! A Saturday night Savior! I DO appreciate it. The model > is a Civic LX 4 door. It does have manual tranny and cruise control. > > How stuff is starting to make sense. The switch I pulled out is backwards > because it isn't the right one. Mine opens when pushed, which indicates the > cruise control. Nes pax? LOL! > > Now a little tech thought more is needed. This is my tenant's car. I am 6'3" > and about 240. Instead of coming up from underneath wouldn't it be easier for > me to pull the instrument panel and go in on top? > I'm terrific at pulling clusters; but I'm too (two-LOL!) big to get both hands > up underneath the dash. Whadaya think? > Can I get there that way? > > And once again-THANK YOU! |
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