Honda Car Forum

> Check any Toyota MR2. Up to and including the first 1985s. Very few of
> those ever suffered split CV joint boots, since the rears did not steer.
We
> recently sold our old '86 with 140,000 mi. It had the original CV joint
> boots. No cracking of any kind was present in any of the bellows.

I also had two MR2's. My 89 SC needed a rear CV boot replacement.

A friend of mine has a Ferrari 308 that also needed a rear CV boot
replacement.

So I was right when I guessed you as an weekend warrior. My little bird
never misses your kind. First let me feed her and ROTFLMAO!
OK now, let me catch my breath, darn, I should have quit smoking 20
years before I actually did it. Still choking LOL and trying to catch my
breath. Darn, no fun being old, except for hot embers like you bringing
life to my small fire.
OK now, let me do a little drawing in the sand so you'll understand
easier. My own estimate is that between 70-90% of repair shop visits
have a "not needed yet" repair attached to it. And I'm not talking about
the straight out scams. If your alternator is pumping juice 2-3 clikx
below it's stated duty, your trusted "japanese mechanic" will show you
that and talk you into replacing it with a newly refurbished unit
because your $35 Kirkland battery will be damaged otherwise. You'll
agree because you don't know anyway the range of undercharging your
battery can withstand. So your japanese mechanic will take down the
alternator and toss it ostentively into the recycling bin destined for
junk yard and make you happy with a new one. You're out $80-$150. He
didn't cheated you 100%, your alternator probably had 6mos to 1 yr. life
in it, but he made sure that you do the repair NOW in his shop. After
you leave he'll retrieve the part from the garbage and with $10-15 worth
of parts and 15-30 min. labor make a newly refurbished part worth
another $75-150 for the next weekend warrior. You'll never see this
numbers in Consumers Reports/Digest because a good mechanic will sniff
out a fake customer miles away. Only the fools fall for investigative
shows you see on TV about crooked repairmen.
Oh God, enough typing just for a dummy like you. One more thing, I can
teach you in less than 10 min how to rebuilt a drive axle and if you are
not an idiot and you have the tools and spare parts, you'll do it as
good as any other trained mechanic with 20 years of japanese experience!
99% of times auto repair is not rocket science.
And last word, next time you give advice, do it based on your own
experience and knowledge, not on what someone else told you or what
you've seen done by others! So you don't expose yourself as a clown.
You wanna split hairs now? I'm game!

TeGGeR wrote:
> Becker <becker@hotmail.com> spake unto the assembled masses in
> news:jKUyb.231439$jy.168332@clgrps13:
>
>
>>I actually enjoyed the "grace" you turned your pseudo-knowledge into a
>>"splitting hair" case. I bet you can turn a tune-up job into a engine
>>swap with the same ability. Do you work for AAMCO?
>>I know too well your weekend warrior type.
>
>
>
> Everything I posted is based on extensive discussions with my Japanese
> mechanic, who has thirty years experience working daily on Japanese cars.
> These discussions came up due to my own need to have my boots replaced, so
> I had a vested interest in getting the straight goods.
>
> He runs his own shop, which among many other things, replaces boots and CV
> joints every single day of the week. He knows why they fail. He sees many
> instances of people trying to replace their own boots with the "split boot"
> type, and knows the pitfalls and shortcomings of that method.
>
> This guy can tell you all sorts of little insider tips, such as exactly
> what Subaru lock ring can be used to hold the Civic CV joint boot in place,
> and how it's better than the Honda design. He can rebuild CV joints and
> literally anything else found on or in a car.
>
> After 20 years relying on this guy's services over the ownership of six
> cars, I trust him much more than I trust me or you.
>
>

Oh, phlease! Just shut up! You're talking from your belly, you obviously
have no mechanical training and you get into matters like a fly in a
horse's ass. JUST SHUT THE **** UP!

TeGGeR wrote:
> Steve Lee <no@spam.com> spake unto the assembled masses in
> news:q8qnsv843le46tgggs2bue8crh109l5a3v@4ax.com:
>
>
>>On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 17:55:42 GMT, TeGGeR
>><teggeratistopdotcom@changetheobvious.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>[snipped an excellent and much appreciated response]
>>
>>TeGGeR, thanks for the reply. I'll be sure to inspect for cracks in
>>the boots every oil change and replace them as necessary.
>
>
>
> You're welcome.
>
> Don't know what car you've got, but if it has unequal-length driveshafts
> (no center shaft and bearing), pay particular attention to the one on the
> differential side. This one will crack first because it runs at steeper
> angles relative to the axis of the wheel.
>
> The cracks generally start on the largest part of the bellows first, and
> only on part of the circumference, so check all around in good light.
>
>
>

Thank you Scott, for exposing this idiot's "advice"

Scott MacLean wrote:
>>The boots crack due to a combination of cold and steering stresses. If the
>>boots were on the REAR driveshafts of a front-steering car, they will last
>>almost indefinitely in any environment.
>
>
> Not true. I've had to replace several rear CV boots on several on my various
> AWD Subarus.
>
>

"Scott MacLean" <scottNO@SPAMnerosoft.com> spake unto the assembled
masses in news:GV4zb.5798$zf2.852641@news20.bellglobal.com:

>> The boots crack due to a combination of cold and steering stresses.
>> If the boots were on the REAR driveshafts of a front-steering car,
>> they will last almost indefinitely in any environment.
>
> Not true. I've had to replace several rear CV boots on several on my
> various AWD Subarus.
>
>


There will always be exceptions to any rule.

There may be other factors at work in your case. Shaft angle, rubber
composition used by Subaru, statistical randomness, etc.

My guy's 30 years of experience on this subject says steering and cold are
the primary killers of CV joint boots by far. I believe him.

--
TeGGeR®

TeGGEr,

I think you could add 'ice formation' to the causes. When wet, compacted
snow or dripping water freezes overnight, it wedges / encases your boots
at whatever angle they were sitting last.

In the morning you start the car, crank the wheel and drive off. The
boots could really take a beating as they tear themselves free from the
ice and grit.

Floridians don't suffer from this much, but Albertans do, with
temperature falling to -40 on occasion... :-(

'Curly'

-------------------------

TeGGeR wrote:
> "Scott MacLean" <scottNO@SPAMnerosoft.com> spake unto the assembled
> masses in news:GV4zb.5798$zf2.852641@news20.bellglobal.com:
>
>
>>>The boots crack due to a combination of cold and steering stresses.
>>>If the boots were on the REAR driveshafts of a front-steering car,
>>>they will last almost indefinitely in any environment.
>>
>>Not true. I've had to replace several rear CV boots on several on my
>>various AWD Subarus.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> There will always be exceptions to any rule.
>
> There may be other factors at work in your case. Shaft angle, rubber
> composition used by Subaru, statistical randomness, etc.
>
> My guy's 30 years of experience on this subject says steering and cold are
> the primary killers of CV joint boots by far. I believe him.
>


--

To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.

Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
you should not play any notes you have left over. -

>
> A friend of mine has a Ferrari 308 that also needed a rear CV boot
> replacement.

wonder how much that would run

On Tue, 02 Dec 2003 04:39:01 GMT, TeGGeR
<teggeratistopdotcom@changetheobvious.invalid> wrote:

>> TeGGeR, thanks for the reply. I'll be sure to inspect for cracks in
>> the boots every oil change and replace them as necessary.
>
>
>You're welcome.
>
>Don't know what car you've got, but if it has unequal-length driveshafts
>(no center shaft and bearing), pay particular attention to the one on the
>differential side. This one will crack first because it runs at steeper
>angles relative to the axis of the wheel.

That's the order in which mine went (contrary to some nay sayer's opinion). I
replaced the originals with aftermarket remans about 2.5 years ago. The
passenger side reman went about 5 months ago and the second I noticed one week
ago during an oil change.

>The cracks generally start on the largest part of the bellows first, and
>only on part of the circumference, so check all around in good light.

I think mine split on the first crease (again, contrary to some nay sayer's
opinion).

Right again!

John M.
92 Civic DX HB AT

On Tue, 2 Dec 2003 13:34:21 -0500, "Scott MacLean" <scottNO@SPAMnerosoft.com>
wrote:

|> Check any Toyota MR2. Up to and including the first 1985s. Very few of
|> those ever suffered split CV joint boots, since the rears did not steer.
|We
|> recently sold our old '86 with 140,000 mi. It had the original CV joint
|> boots. No cracking of any kind was present in any of the bellows.
|
|I also had two MR2's. My 89 SC needed a rear CV boot replacement.

Obviously, too much rear toe
|A friend of mine has a Ferrari 308 that also needed a rear CV boot
|replacement.
|
|

Rex in Fort Worth

|
|>> The boots crack due to a combination of cold and steering stresses.
|>> If the boots were on the REAR driveshafts of a front-steering car,
|>> they will last almost indefinitely in any environment.
|>
|> Not true. I've had to replace several rear CV boots on several on my
|> various AWD Subarus.

The issue here is wheel travel. The MR2 had relatively little, cornered flat.
The WRX has lots, due to it's rally heritage. Wheel travel imposes the same
joint angularity as steering.
Rex in Fort Worth