Honda Car Forum

I have a 99 Honda CRV with a bad idling problem for the last
two months.

I've ran techroline and several injection cleaners to no avail.
Replaced the PCV Valve, Fuel filter , spark plugs, etc....

I'm now convinced after some research, thats its related to
the Infamous CRV Burnt Valve Syndrome.

I have 60K miles on this thing.
I can tell the valves need some adjustment at this moment,
and my check engine light came on last week to signify that
I had a misfire problems with several cylinders...I reset the light.
It hasnt come on since.

It now seems clear to me that the idling problem is related
to a needed Valve Adjustment.....and I hope one or more valves
arent burnt yet??

Any one have any new info on the guy who was talking class-action suit
about this.

Stempis Rhubank wrote:
>
> I have a 99 Honda CRV with a bad idling problem for the last
> two months.
>
> I've ran techroline and several injection cleaners to no avail.
> Replaced the PCV Valve, Fuel filter , spark plugs, etc....
>
> I'm now convinced after some research, thats its related to
> the Infamous CRV Burnt Valve Syndrome.
>
> I have 60K miles on this thing.
> I can tell the valves need some adjustment at this moment,
> and my check engine light came on last week to signify that
> I had a misfire problems with several cylinders...I reset the light.
> It hasnt come on since.
>
> It now seems clear to me that the idling problem is related
> to a needed Valve Adjustment.....and I hope one or more valves
> arent burnt yet??
>
> Any one have any new info on the guy who was talking class-action suit
> about this.

----------------------
Stempis,
If you've been driving it rather than fixing the problem, you may have
already shot yourself in the foot by broadcasting this message to the
world. A valve adjustment can be done in about 45 minutes on your own
driveway.

Suggest you should get a compression test done, followed by a valve
adjustment, to quantify your 'loss' and to prove that you're trying to
mitigate further damage.

'Curly'
-----------------------

To REPLY: If there are a couple of underscores in my return address,
you must remove them to reply directly . . . . . . Thanks.

Regarding stage performances: When everyone else has finished playing,
you should not play any notes you have left over. -

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco_@_interbaun.com> wrote in message > Stempis,
> If you've been driving it rather than fixing the problem, you may have
> already shot yourself in the foot by broadcasting this message to the
> world. A valve adjustment can be done in about 45 minutes on your own
> driveway.
>
> Suggest you should get a compression test done, followed by a valve
> adjustment, to quantify your 'loss' and to prove that you're trying to
> mitigate further damage.
>
> 'Curly'

Thanks Curly, my epiphany happened last night after Internet research,
I have an appt at the Dealer Tues Morn.
Valve Adj. is $79.95.

Maybe your right??, just a simple compression check and ?? engine scope??
before the potential Valve Adjustment or fixing the mess?

So the question is that I ask for a Simple Compression Check only,
or Do I have the 'Engine Scoped??"

I'm attentive to the noises my car makes. After almost a year and 20000km on
my 2002, I found that the valves are noisy.
The mechanic at the dealer agreed and they adjusted them free of charge.
On the other hand, I doubt that an average driver would have noticed that
the valves were too noisy.

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 17:30:07 -0400, "Paul Bielec" <me@no.spam> wrote:

>I'm attentive to the noises my car makes. After almost a year and 20000km on
>my 2002, I found that the valves are noisy.
>The mechanic at the dealer agreed and they adjusted them free of charge.
>On the other hand, I doubt that an average driver would have noticed that
>the valves were too noisy.
>

If they were noisy, they were loose. Too tight causes them to burn.
The engines at greatest risk are quiet.

I think it would be wise for everyone to get the valves adjusted at
20K and then check them at 50K. That should give you a good idea of
how often this service is necessary.

> If they were noisy, they were loose. Too tight causes them to burn.
> The engines at greatest risk are quiet.

I know, this is just to say that they were probably out of spec when the car
left the factory in Japan.

> I think it would be wise for everyone to get the valves adjusted at
> 20K and then check them at 50K. That should give you a good idea of
> how often this service is necessary.

It would be wise nut fairly unrealistic. When somebody buys a new car he's
not expecting to pay for this after a year or so.

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:16:03 -0400, "Paul Bielec" <me@no.spam> wrote:

>> If they were noisy, they were loose. Too tight causes them to burn.
>> The engines at greatest risk are quiet.
>
>I know, this is just to say that they were probably out of spec when the car
>left the factory in Japan.

Not sure what you are saying but it is possible for the valves to
tighten over time. Some CRV owners have reported this problem.

>> I think it would be wise for everyone to get the valves adjusted at
>> 20K and then check them at 50K. That should give you a good idea of
>> how often this service is necessary.
>
>It would be wise nut fairly unrealistic. When somebody buys a new car he's
>not expecting to pay for this after a year or so.

It used to be recommended every 15K. That was probably overkill but
waiting for valve noise (as I understand Honda now recommends) is a
bad idea.

Well I took my car into the Dealer.

1)Wanted a Scope done on the engine ,compression check, and the
results of the Tests.

2) Valve Adjustment.

3) told the service manager that I expected these results to be
written
down for me.


When the Service Mangager was writing me up he asked what
problems did I think I was having with the car....and I just replied
that it has a rough idle and that it needs a Valve Adjustment.
********* ******************
The last thing I want to do is to tell this guy that I fear a burnt
valve.....because I didnt want a call/estimate for a Valve Job( you
know the routine!!)
********** ********************

Well,I got called with a diagnosis of Bad Sparkplug #4, bad wire #4,
need new Distributor cap and rotor.......
So I pass on them fixing that telling them , that basically I can do
my own work , but that I couldnt do the Valve Adjustment and that
I needed the results of the compression check.

Go to pick up the car--- the Diagnosis tells me about Cyl#4,
sparkplug, wire
distributor cap....but doesnt mention compression.
Most certainly, I figure, the Tech stopped the Diagnosis/Tests after
the Cyl#4 related stuff and I have no evidence to the contrary.

So I TELLs the Service Manager where are my compression check tallies,
and he just is telling me that he wrote the compression check request
on the sheet, but is not telling me how he is going to make this
right..... So far all I know maybe I have some slight but not very
advanced burning of the valve or worse , but the Tech quit after he
found 1 gotcha with the Cylinder firing!!!

Anyhow after losing a bit of my composure, and asking the Manaager to
make
this right since ''I am going to sell this car and had to prove to a
Buyer
that it didnt have Burnt Valves and show them a Compression Check''
he agreed to write a Comment on my Service Receipt agreeing to do
a Free Compression Check for me when I bring in the car.
Of course, ''selling the Car was just a rouse'', to get this guy to
come
around to my needs!!!!

You know, all this could have been avoided if I felt that I could be
honest
with the Service Manager, but you can't....I have firsthand knowledge,
I used to work for a Chevy Dealer and the Service Managers got hired
and
fired on how much revenue they could generate each month.
You dont improve revenue figures by being honest and nice, you do it
by giving people , in some cases, the expected solution to their
problems
and justifying it mentally by telling yourself that they got the 'Best
or most Comprehensive Repair'.
With a Valve Job on the order of $1000 dollars or more I'm not taking
chances, nor can I trust anyone to be honest in the Business until
they
prove to me otherwise.

Anyhow since my car was at least scoped ...could that procedure alone
determine
a partial or more burnning of one or more valves???
--Me thinks not??

So far the car seems to run better than before, but I havent had it on
a *Cold Start* yet, where it was exhibiting its stalling and very
rough
idle for the first 20 minutes only.

On 10/21/03 9:35 PM, in article
8451e48c.0310211835.7f5d1f27@posting.google.com, "Stempis Rhubank"
<kneeloswirl@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Well I took my car into the Dealer.
>
> 1)Wanted a Scope done on the engine ,compression check, and the
> results of the Tests.
>
> 2) Valve Adjustment.
>
> 3) told the service manager that I expected these results to be
> written
> down for me.
>
>
> When the Service Mangager was writing me up he asked what
> problems did I think I was having with the car....and I just replied
> that it has a rough idle and that it needs a Valve Adjustment.
> ********* ******************
> The last thing I want to do is to tell this guy that I fear a burnt
> valve.....because I didnt want a call/estimate for a Valve Job( you
> know the routine!!)
> ********** ********************
>
> Well,I got called with a diagnosis of Bad Sparkplug #4, bad wire #4,
> need new Distributor cap and rotor.......
> So I pass on them fixing that telling them , that basically I can do
> my own work , but that I couldnt do the Valve Adjustment and that
> I needed the results of the compression check.
>
> Go to pick up the car--- the Diagnosis tells me about Cyl#4,
> sparkplug, wire
> distributor cap....but doesnt mention compression.
> Most certainly, I figure, the Tech stopped the Diagnosis/Tests after
> the Cyl#4 related stuff and I have no evidence to the contrary.
>
> So I TELLs the Service Manager where are my compression check tallies,
> and he just is telling me that he wrote the compression check request
> on the sheet, but is not telling me how he is going to make this
> right..... So far all I know maybe I have some slight but not very
> advanced burning of the valve or worse , but the Tech quit after he
> found 1 gotcha with the Cylinder firing!!!
>
> Anyhow after losing a bit of my composure, and asking the Manaager to
> make
> this right since ''I am going to sell this car and had to prove to a
> Buyer
> that it didnt have Burnt Valves and show them a Compression Check''
> he agreed to write a Comment on my Service Receipt agreeing to do
> a Free Compression Check for me when I bring in the car.
> Of course, ''selling the Car was just a rouse'', to get this guy to
> come
> around to my needs!!!!
>
> You know, all this could have been avoided if I felt that I could be
> honest
> with the Service Manager, but you can't....I have firsthand knowledge,
> I used to work for a Chevy Dealer and the Service Managers got hired
> and
> fired on how much revenue they could generate each month.
> You dont improve revenue figures by being honest and nice, you do it
> by giving people , in some cases, the expected solution to their
> problems
> and justifying it mentally by telling yourself that they got the 'Best
> or most Comprehensive Repair'.
> With a Valve Job on the order of $1000 dollars or more I'm not taking
> chances, nor can I trust anyone to be honest in the Business until
> they
> prove to me otherwise.
>
> Anyhow since my car was at least scoped ...could that procedure alone
> determine
> a partial or more burnning of one or more valves???
> --Me thinks not??
>
> So far the car seems to run better than before, but I havent had it on
> a *Cold Start* yet, where it was exhibiting its stalling and very
> rough
> idle for the first 20 minutes only.


So, did you change the plug and wire on #4?

Gordon McGrew wrote:
> It used to be recommended every 15K. That was probably overkill but
> waiting for valve noise (as I understand Honda now recommends) is a
> bad idea.

I've done it myself as long as I've had my Civic. It's an old habit I
got into when I was driving air-cooled Volkswagens, where it's
absolutely vital and needs to be done every 6,000 miles. It's
relatively easy on a Honda -- you don't have to lie on the ground to get
at the valve cover.

That said, at 15K I'll maybe find one or two that are near the edge of
the spec. I could probably start doing it every 30K without any danger
of damage.

When I do the valves I also pull the spark plugs, to make the engine
easier to rotate, and this is a great time to inspect the plugs for wear.