Honda Car Forum

Folks,
I am the original poster of the Brake lamp light post. For some reason
a couple of you have gotten into shouting matches and even name
calling. Can we all grow up and focus on the question rather than our
personalities. The reason for my post to see how I can solve my
problem not to see who has the smallest dick.

You original post gave the impression you taillights were staying
illuminated, that was why I suggest what I did as a probable
cause. Subsequent posts seem to suggest the instrument cluster
light was staying illuminated. Read you owners manual but that
enunciator generally indicates a failure in a portion of the
hydraulic system, rather that the electrical system. If the
fluid level is correct and you are not a mechanic, take it to a
competent brake shop before you have a complete failure and an
accident, WBMA



mike hunt



parkbox@REMOVETHIShotmail.com wrote:
>
> Folks,
> I am the original poster of the Brake lamp light post. For some reason
> a couple of you have gotten into shouting matches and even name
> calling. Can we all grow up and focus on the question rather than our
> personalities. The reason for my post to see how I can solve my
> problem not to see who has the smallest dick.

<IleneDover@mailcity.com> wrote in message
news:3F843DB2.5834E632@mailcity.com...
> You original post gave the impression you taillights were staying
> illuminated, that was why I suggest what I did as a probable
> cause. Subsequent posts seem to suggest the instrument cluster
> light was staying illuminated. Read you owners manual but that
> enunciator generally indicates a failure in a portion of the
> hydraulic system, rather that the electrical system. If the
> fluid level is correct and you are not a mechanic, take it to a
> competent brake shop before you have a complete failure and an
> accident, WBMA
>
>
>
> mike hunt

Not necessarily.

There are two "brake" lamps on the dash of most Hondas. One indicates that
one (or both) of your brake lamps have failed. This circuit runs thru the
computer, and it has circuitry to monitor amp draw, and illuminates when out
of range. If that light is on, and both brake lights are working, check for
proper bulb type installation, and/or dirty or water in the sockets.

The other lamp indicates that the parking brake is applied and/or low fluid
in the master cylinder. Low fluid in the master cylinder may not indicate a
serious problem...other than the fact that the level is low...which could be
a normal scenario if your pads and shoes are worn, but not necessarily out
of the operational (safety) range.

parkbox@REMOVETHIShotmail.com wrote in
news:7nb8ovkrv2od2sbeanijj6mni0b9hl6p4s@4ax.com:

> Folks,
> I am the original poster of the Brake lamp light post. For some reason
> a couple of you have gotten into shouting matches and even name
> calling. Can we all grow up and focus on the question rather than our
> personalities. The reason for my post to see how I can solve my
> problem not to see who has the smallest dick.

On my '90 Accord, on the dash there is a light labeled 'Brake', and a light
labeled 'Brake Lamp'.

If it's your 'Brake' light, my first guess would be that your brake fluid
is low. I had this light go on in my car when the brakes pads were
reaching the end of their service life, and the fluid was low because more
fluid is being used to push the pads further. The fluid was actually a
little bit above the low level, so the sensor was a little oversensitive.

If it's your 'Brake Lamp' light, then I would check all rear brake lights.
On my car there are 5 rear brake lights. You talk like you only have one,
so I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing.

You mentioned your brake pedal going to the floor. My first guess is that
you have a bad seal in your brake master cylinder. Seal failure most
commonly occurs in hot weather when the brake fluid is thinnest, and can
leak past the seal easiest. I had that problem and replaced the master
cylinder at around 150,000 miles. This is probably a second problem that
has nothing to do with your brake light problem.

> > You original post gave the impression you taillights were staying
> > illuminated, that was why I suggest what I did as a probable
> > cause. Subsequent posts seem to suggest the instrument cluster
> > light was staying illuminated. Read you owners manual but that
> > enunciator generally indicates a failure in a portion of the
> > hydraulic system, rather that the electrical system. If the
> > fluid level is correct and you are not a mechanic, take it to a
> > competent brake shop before you have a complete failure and an
> > accident, WBMA
> > mike hunt
>
> Not necessarily.
> There are two "brake" lamps on the dash of most Hondas. One indicates that
> one (or both) of your brake lamps have failed. This circuit runs thru the
> computer, and it has circuitry to monitor amp draw, and illuminates when out
> of range.

The circuits run thru a magnetic reed switch. A transistor is all it
needs and usually part of the courtesy control unit. No computer
involved. Here, take a look at this picture (not affiliated to me).

http://autotails.tripod.com/brakes.htm

Koji

> If that light is on, and both brake lights are working, check for
> proper bulb type installation, and/or dirty or water in the sockets.
>
> The other lamp indicates that the parking brake is applied and/or low fluid
> in the master cylinder. Low fluid in the master cylinder may not indicate a
> serious problem...other than the fact that the level is low...which could be
> a normal scenario if your pads and shoes are worn, but not necessarily out
> of the operational (safety) range.

Brake = parking brakes or brake fluids.
Brake Lamp = bulb(s).

Brake lamp bulbs designed for Civics won't works for Accords very
long. The filaments quickly fade and minimal currents pass.

Brake going to the floor may indicate air trapped in brake fluid
circuits. Caution, low brake fluid may introduce air.
Koji

> I am the original poster of the Brake lamp light post. For some reason
> a couple of you have gotten into shouting matches and even name
> calling. Can we all grow up and focus on the question rather than our
> personalities. The reason for my post to see how I can solve my
> problem not to see who has the smallest dick.

> The circuits run thru a magnetic reed switch. A transistor is all it
> needs and usually part of the courtesy control unit. No computer
> involved. Here, take a look at this picture (not affiliated to me).
>
> http://autotails.tripod.com/brakes.htm

Note the part of the diagram labeled failure sensor. Those are boxes in the
tail light area, and every now and then they go bad.

parkbox@REMOVETHIShotmail.com wrote in message news:<7nb8ovkrv2od2sbeanijj6mni0b9hl6p4s@4ax.com>. ..
> Folks,
> I am the original poster of the Brake lamp light post. For some reason
> a couple of you have gotten into shouting matches and even name
> calling. Can we all grow up and focus on the question rather than our
> personalities. The reason for my post to see how I can solve my
> problem not to see who has the smallest dick.

The advice given for the electricals is sound advice. Either a bulb,
or the control module. HINT: if you jam the brake pedal with a broom
or something, and look at the brake lights on the rear of the car, are
they all lighting up? The sedan from that year has 5 brake lights. As
for the sinking pedal, I recommend getting your master cylinder
replaced immediately (even though the weather is cooling down and the
effects are minimized). If it fails completely, you will have no brake
pressure at all. Complete failure _can_ happen suddenly. It's a risky
situation. Try to visualize what would happen to those tired, worn
seals after a few panic stops! ;-)

-k

> The circuits run thru a magnetic reed switch.

Relays.

>A transistor is all it
> needs and usually part of the courtesy control unit.

It needs some resistors and at least one diode.

> No computer
> involved.

My 1994 "brake lamp sensing circuit" is located inside the ECU.