Honda Car Forum

Not really asking any questions here, but I posted the other day and here's
a follow-up on my next step (taking the car to the dealer...). Not what I
wanted, but out of ideas.

Thanks to those who posted to my last question. I have taken advise and I
have performed a number of tests that with my level of understanding, appear
conclusive. This is what I plan to go forward to the dealer with. Any
comments welcome.

1998 Accord, EX V6, Sedan, 120K mi.
I used a Haynes (42014) auto manual to diagnose the following:
-Condenser fan no longer turns on at all, either when the engine is above
~217 degrees or when the A/C is engaged.
-Coolant fan works with no issues.
-On this car, the Condenser fan is located on the passenger side (flatter
motor).
-I used jumper wires to directly connect the fan to the battery and it does
work.
-I have checked drivers-side fuses #3 and #6 and both are good.
-I have checked the engine fuse box condenser fan fuse and it is good.
-I pulled out the condenser fan relay and placed 12VDC across it's terminals
#3 and #4. At this point, it does show continuity between terminals #1 and
#2 as it should.
-With the relay removed, I checked the engine fuse box relay socket with a
volt-meter. Voltage at the sockets for terminals #3 and #4 on the relay do
produce 12VDC when the A/C is engaged. This should allow the relay to close
#1 and #2. This tells me that the fan control module in the passenger
compartment is working.
-With the engine off and the relay removed, the relay socket for terminal #1
does show +12VDC as it should (wiring diagram shows always hot -- via engine
fuse box 20A fuse already checked).
-Looking at the wiring diagram in the service manual, relay socket #2 should
directly connect to the BLU/YEL wire on the fan electrical connector. It
does *NOT* show continuity.
-The BLU/YEL wire does not have continuity to ground either at the box or at
the fan connector (check to make sure that it is not grounding out).
-The fan connector BLK wire does have continuity to ground as it should.
-Checked the fan connector on the wire and it appears in working order with
continuity to the immediate wire.

I tried this procedure on the working coolant fan and it all checks out. If
the BLU/YEL wire directly connects the fuse box to the fan, I assume there
is a break in the line. I have checked as extensively as possible and do
not see any signs of fraying or damaged insulation. Unfortunately, I can't
access most of the wire since it is bundled to tell where the break is. Not
sure why only one wire in the bundle would be damaged unless it's on the
outside somewhere that I couldn't see with my flashlight.

I hate to go to the dealer, but I do not see any other options for me.
Please let me know if you happen to see any flaws in my logic. Thanks in
advance.