Honda Car Forum

'98 Accord EX V-6. Code PO401 - insufficient EGR flow. TSB/retrofit
exists for this involving drilling-over EGR port in plenum, installing
sleeve, etc. Done that part. Here's the rest: I removed and began
DISASSEMBLING the EGR valve itself. Yes, you read correctly. I
removed the 3(or 4?) small bolts and nuts that hold the metal mounting
base to the upper electrical part in an attempt to COMPLETELY
diassemble the valve into 2 basic pieces. However the metal plunger/
bypass ass'y connects the two portions and there is a high-heat metal-
foil gasket in between...now damaged, obviously. I either need to get
this bitch all the way apart (I can't seem to) and replace the gasket
OR find a suitable RTV (copper?) OR just replace the whole valve.
Obviously I would like to reverse my disassembly and repair/replace
the gasket. So let's run with that. Thanks. Kevin.

On 10/08/2010 12:02 AM, Meatman wrote:
> '98 Accord EX V-6. Code PO401 - insufficient EGR flow. TSB/retrofit
> exists for this involving drilling-over EGR port in plenum, installing
> sleeve, etc. Done that part. Here's the rest: I removed and began
> DISASSEMBLING the EGR valve itself. Yes, you read correctly. I
> removed the 3(or 4?) small bolts and nuts that hold the metal mounting
> base to the upper electrical part in an attempt to COMPLETELY
> diassemble the valve into 2 basic pieces. However the metal plunger/
> bypass ass'y connects the two portions and there is a high-heat metal-
> foil gasket in between...now damaged, obviously. I either need to get
> this bitch all the way apart (I can't seem to) and replace the gasket
> OR find a suitable RTV (copper?) OR just replace the whole valve.
> Obviously I would like to reverse my disassembly and repair/replace
> the gasket. So let's run with that. Thanks. Kevin.

i'd cut your time losses and just get a new valve from a junkyard.

egr valves can run very hot - the rtv gasket stuff won't cope. they
don't usually need much more than a good internal scraping to get the
soot out. you can do this without the disassembly you've done. just
use some vacuum hose connected to the diaphragm opener to suck open the
valve pintle, then you can use a needle to remove the accumulation.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On Oct 8, 2:36*pm, jim beam <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> On 10/08/2010 12:02 AM, Meatman wrote:
>
> > '98 Accord EX V-6. *Code PO401 - insufficient EGR flow. *TSB/retrofit
> > exists for this involving drilling-over EGR port in plenum, installing
> > sleeve, etc. *Done that part. *Here's the rest: *I removed and began
> > DISASSEMBLING the EGR valve itself. *Yes, you read correctly. *I
> > removed the 3(or 4?) small bolts and nuts that hold the metal mounting
> > base to the upper electrical part in an attempt to COMPLETELY
> > diassemble the valve into 2 basic pieces. *However the metal plunger/
> > bypass ass'y connects the two portions and there is a high-heat metal-
> > foil gasket in between...now damaged, obviously. *I either need to get
> > this bitch all the way apart (I can't seem to) and replace the gasket
> > OR find a suitable RTV (copper?) OR just replace the whole valve.
> > Obviously I would like to reverse my disassembly and repair/replace
> > the gasket. *So let's run with that. *Thanks. *Kevin.
>
> i'd cut your time losses and just get a new valve from a junkyard.
>
> egr valves can run very hot - the rtv gasket stuff won't cope. *they
> don't usually need much more than a good internal scraping to get the
> soot out. *you can do this without the disassembly you've done. *just
> use some vacuum hose connected to the diaphragm opener to suck open the
> valve pintle, then you can use a needle to remove the accumulation.
>
> --
> nomina rutrum rutrum

Fair enough. Now, how do I tear this thing down?

On 10/09/2010 12:41 AM, Meatman wrote:
> On Oct 8, 2:36�pm, jim beam<m...@privacy.net> wrote:
>> On 10/08/2010 12:02 AM, Meatman wrote:
>>
>>> '98 Accord EX V-6. �Code PO401 - insufficient EGR flow. �TSB/retrofit
>>> exists for this involving drilling-over EGR port in plenum, installing
>>> sleeve, etc. �Done that part. �Here's the rest: �I removed and began
>>> DISASSEMBLING the EGR valve itself. �Yes, you read correctly. �I
>>> removed the 3(or 4?) small bolts and nuts that hold the metal mounting
>>> base to the upper electrical part in an attempt to COMPLETELY
>>> diassemble the valve into 2 basic pieces. �However the metal plunger/
>>> bypass ass'y connects the two portions and there is a high-heat metal-
>>> foil gasket in between...now damaged, obviously. �I either need to get
>>> this bitch all the way apart (I can't seem to) and replace the gasket
>>> OR find a suitable RTV (copper?) OR just replace the whole valve.
>>> Obviously I would like to reverse my disassembly and repair/replace
>>> the gasket. �So let's run with that. �Thanks. �Kevin.
>>
>> i'd cut your time losses and just get a new valve from a junkyard.
>>
>> egr valves can run very hot - the rtv gasket stuff won't cope. �they
>> don't usually need much more than a good internal scraping to get the
>> soot out. �you can do this without the disassembly you've done. �just
>> use some vacuum hose connected to the diaphragm opener to suck open the
>> valve pintle, then you can use a needle to remove the accumulation.
>>
>> --
>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>
> Fair enough. Now, how do I tear this thing down?

you don't. its assembly is a one-way process. once the plunger is in,
you can't get it out without breaking stuff. and since you can't get it
out, now the gasket is broken, that egr valve is shot.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

Thus spake jim beam <me@privacy.net> :

>On 10/09/2010 12:41 AM, Meatman wrote:
>> On Oct 8, 2:36?pm, jim beam<m...@privacy.net> wrote:
>>> On 10/08/2010 12:02 AM, Meatman wrote:
>>>
>>>> '98 Accord EX V-6. ?Code PO401 - insufficient EGR flow. ?TSB/retrofit
>>>> exists for this involving drilling-over EGR port in plenum, installing
>>>> sleeve, etc. ?Done that part. ?Here's the rest: ?I removed and began
>>>> DISASSEMBLING the EGR valve itself. ?Yes, you read correctly. ?I
>>>> removed the 3(or 4?) small bolts and nuts that hold the metal mounting
>>>> base to the upper electrical part in an attempt to COMPLETELY
>>>> diassemble the valve into 2 basic pieces. ?However the metal plunger/
>>>> bypass ass'y connects the two portions and there is a high-heat metal-
>>>> foil gasket in between...now damaged, obviously. ?I either need to get
>>>> this bitch all the way apart (I can't seem to) and replace the gasket
>>>> OR find a suitable RTV (copper?) OR just replace the whole valve.
>>>> Obviously I would like to reverse my disassembly and repair/replace
>>>> the gasket. ?So let's run with that. ?Thanks. ?Kevin.
>>>
>>> i'd cut your time losses and just get a new valve from a junkyard.
>>>
>>> egr valves can run very hot - the rtv gasket stuff won't cope. ?they
>>> don't usually need much more than a good internal scraping to get the
>>> soot out. ?you can do this without the disassembly you've done. ?just
>>> use some vacuum hose connected to the diaphragm opener to suck open the
>>> valve pintle, then you can use a needle to remove the accumulation.
>>>
>>> --
>>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>>
>> Fair enough. Now, how do I tear this thing down?
>
>you don't. its assembly is a one-way process. once the plunger is in,
>you can't get it out without breaking stuff. and since you can't get it
>out, now the gasket is broken, that egr valve is shot.

I would think that if the TSB came out any prior to 2008 Honda would
have to carry the part. CARB requires that sort of nonsense.
Emissions related recalls and TSBs for cars less than 10 years old are
supposed to be supplies the part for 5 years after the recall or at
the 10 year mark, whichever is later.
--

- dillon I am not invalid

Toby (Tri-Umph That's the Sweet Truth)
March 1998 - June 2010
What a dog. What a dog!

On 10/14/2010 06:38 AM, Dillon Pyron wrote:
> Thus spake jim beam<me@privacy.net> :
>
>> On 10/09/2010 12:41 AM, Meatman wrote:
>>> On Oct 8, 2:36?pm, jim beam<m...@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>> On 10/08/2010 12:02 AM, Meatman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> '98 Accord EX V-6. ?Code PO401 - insufficient EGR flow. ?TSB/retrofit
>>>>> exists for this involving drilling-over EGR port in plenum, installing
>>>>> sleeve, etc. ?Done that part. ?Here's the rest: ?I removed and began
>>>>> DISASSEMBLING the EGR valve itself. ?Yes, you read correctly. ?I
>>>>> removed the 3(or 4?) small bolts and nuts that hold the metal mounting
>>>>> base to the upper electrical part in an attempt to COMPLETELY
>>>>> diassemble the valve into 2 basic pieces. ?However the metal plunger/
>>>>> bypass ass'y connects the two portions and there is a high-heat metal-
>>>>> foil gasket in between...now damaged, obviously. ?I either need to get
>>>>> this bitch all the way apart (I can't seem to) and replace the gasket
>>>>> OR find a suitable RTV (copper?) OR just replace the whole valve.
>>>>> Obviously I would like to reverse my disassembly and repair/replace
>>>>> the gasket. ?So let's run with that. ?Thanks. ?Kevin.
>>>>
>>>> i'd cut your time losses and just get a new valve from a junkyard.
>>>>
>>>> egr valves can run very hot - the rtv gasket stuff won't cope. ?they
>>>> don't usually need much more than a good internal scraping to get the
>>>> soot out. ?you can do this without the disassembly you've done. ?just
>>>> use some vacuum hose connected to the diaphragm opener to suck open the
>>>> valve pintle, then you can use a needle to remove the accumulation.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>>>
>>> Fair enough. Now, how do I tear this thing down?
>>
>> you don't. its assembly is a one-way process. once the plunger is in,
>> you can't get it out without breaking stuff. and since you can't get it
>> out, now the gasket is broken, that egr valve is shot.
>
> I would think that if the TSB came out any prior to 2008 Honda would
> have to carry the part.

they /do/ carry the part - the whole assembly. availability is not the
issue, it was whether it could be disassembled, and it can't.


> CARB requires that sort of nonsense.
> Emissions related recalls and TSBs for cars less than 10 years old are
> supposed to be supplies the part for 5 years after the recall or at
> the 10 year mark, whichever is later.

whatever. i personally have no issues with carb as long as the rules
aren't retroactively changed - which they recently were. now, my 89
civic, which was federally legal up until 2009, has to have a
carb-certified catalyst that meets 2006 or newer emissions.

show me the individual who thought that one up and i'll show you someone
who had shares in the only catalytic converter manufacturer that
happened to have product ready for the new certification.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum