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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 27 Mar 2005, 11:48 pm
muzicman
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Default Accord Vibrations

I just bought a 93 Accord EX with 105K on it and didnít notice till I
was driving it home that when I eased on the power at speed(re 2500
rpm) the motor started vibrating until I leveled off. I can make it do
this at any speed at this rpm, the whole car shudders sometimes.
Also when I start the engine it jumps pretty bad, not awful but more
than it should.

I took it to a Honda shop and the mechanic said to begin by
replacing the torque strut first. We did, no difference. Then I
replaced the mount on the timing belt side, no difference. Two down
two to go. Most people say on 5 spds the rear mount never goes out,
no one talks much re the tranny mount. It seems to me that if the
motor jumps on starting it would likely be the rear mount. If so do I
need to remove the injection system to get to it? This one looks like
a major pain! The local parts guy says he replaced the tranny mount
and it fixed a similar problem.

Any other thought?

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 28 Mar 2005, 07:49 am
G-Man
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Default Re: Accord Vibrations

Is the engine missing? If it is missing, it will make the car shutter.

This sounds a lot like the EGR valve needing cleaning if it does this at a
specific RPM.

If the engine is smooth, then you are on the right track with the mounts.

G-Man


"muzicman" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_512986_3f2dcae9613fb0875289c4abc7eec1ce@aut oforumz.com...
>I just bought a 93 Accord EX with 105K on it and didn't notice till I
> was driving it home that when I eased on the power at speed(re 2500
> rpm) the motor started vibrating until I leveled off. I can make it do
> this at any speed at this rpm, the whole car shudders sometimes.
> Also when I start the engine it jumps pretty bad, not awful but more
> than it should.
>
> I took it to a Honda shop and the mechanic said to begin by
> replacing the torque strut first. We did, no difference. Then I
> replaced the mount on the timing belt side, no difference. Two down
> two to go. Most people say on 5 spds the rear mount never goes out,
> no one talks much re the tranny mount. It seems to me that if the
> motor jumps on starting it would likely be the rear mount. If so do I
> need to remove the injection system to get to it? This one looks like
> a major pain! The local parts guy says he replaced the tranny mount
> and it fixed a similar problem.
>
> Any other thought?
>
> --
> Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
> Topic URL:
> http://www.autoforumz.com/Honda-Acco...ict109580.html
> Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse:
> http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=512986



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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 28 Mar 2005, 12:43 pm
muzicman
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Re: Accord Vibrations

"G-Man" wrote:
> Is the engine missing? If it is missing, it will make the car
> shutter.
>
> This sounds a lot like the EGR valve needing cleaning if it
> does this at a
> specific RPM.
>
> If the engine is smooth, then you are on the right track with
> the mounts.
>
> G-Man
>
>
> "muzicman" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> news:1_512986_3f2dcae9613fb0875289c4abc7eec1ce@aut oforumz.com...
> >I just bought a 93 Accord EX with 105K on it and didn't

> notice till I
> > was driving it home that when I eased on the power at

> speed(re 2500
> > rpm) the motor started vibrating until I leveled off. I can

> make it do
> > this at any speed at this rpm, the whole car shudders

> sometimes.
> > Also when I start the engine it jumps pretty bad, not awful

> but more
> > than it should.
> >
> > I took it to a Honda shop and the mechanic said to begin

> by
> > replacing the torque strut first. We did, no difference.

> Then I
> > replaced the mount on the timing belt side, no difference.

> Two down
> > two to go. Most people say on 5 spds the rear mount never

> goes out,
> > no one talks much re the tranny mount. It seems to me that

> if the
> > motor jumps on starting it would likely be the rear mount.

> If so do I
> > need to remove the injection system to get to it? This one

> looks like
> > a major pain! The local parts guy says he replaced the

> tranny mount
> > and it fixed a similar problem.
> >
> > Any other thought?
> >
> > --
> > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet

> standards
> > Topic URL:
> > http://www.autoforumz.com/Honda-Acco...ict109580.html
> > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report

> abuse:
> > http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=512986


thanks,
the engine runs smooth all the time even at idle. When the idle drops
to 800 rpm the vibration starts also.

Anyone have any tips for replacing the rear mount?
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 28 Mar 2005, 04:49 pm
Jason
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Accord Vibrations

In article <1_512986_3f2dcae9613fb0875289c4abc7eec1ce@autofor umz.com>,
muzicman <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

> I just bought a 93 Accord EX with 105K on it and didnít notice till I
> was driving it home that when I eased on the power at speed(re 2500
> rpm) the motor started vibrating until I leveled off. I can make it do
> this at any speed at this rpm, the whole car shudders sometimes.
> Also when I start the engine it jumps pretty bad, not awful but more
> than it should.
>
> I took it to a Honda shop and the mechanic said to begin by
> replacing the torque strut first. We did, no difference. Then I
> replaced the mount on the timing belt side, no difference. Two down
> two to go. Most people say on 5 spds the rear mount never goes out,
> no one talks much re the tranny mount. It seems to me that if the
> motor jumps on starting it would likely be the rear mount. If so do I
> need to remove the injection system to get to it? This one looks like
> a major pain! The local parts guy says he replaced the tranny mount
> and it fixed a similar problem.
>
> Any other thought?


I advise you to have your mechanic check the valves and also set the
timing. This should eliminate excessive vibration. Even if this does NOT
solve the problem--you will have made a good investment since these things
should be done after buying a used car--esp. if the car is over 10 years
old.
Also consider having the mechanic hook up your car to his Diagnostic
computerized engine tester.

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We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people.



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