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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 14 Mar 2005, 06:33 am
rynniki
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Default cv boot or cv joint

My hus band went and got new tire and they said we need a new cv boot. How
much do they cost and how much would it be to get the joint and boot
together? Also on the paper it says R&I Axle Shaft what does that mean.
It's Pepboys where we got the tires so I don't know how well they do
working on cars other than tires

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 14 Mar 2005, 09:17 am
Albert
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint


"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:a7f3d44aec851a62446af50aff038171@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> My hus band went and got new tire and they said we need a new cv boot. How
> much do they cost and how much would it be to get the joint and boot
> together? Also on the paper it says R&I Axle Shaft what does that mean.
> It's Pepboys where we got the tires so I don't know how well they do
> working on cars other than tires
>


Pepboys? Sorry for you/....


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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 14 Mar 2005, 12:01 pm
Randolph
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint


rynniki wrote:
>
> My hus band went and got new tire and they said we need a new cv boot. How
> much do they cost and how much would it be to get the joint and boot
> together? Also on the paper it says R&I Axle Shaft what does that mean.
> It's Pepboys where we got the tires so I don't know how well they do
> working on cars other than tires


Back in 2003 I paid $168 (Northern California) to have the outer left cv
boot replaced on my '94 Civic. If you catch a torn boot early, i.e.
before much of the grease comes out and before any dirt gets in,
replacing the boot only is a good solution. If you have driven the car
for some time with a torn boot, replacing the CV joint and boot is
advisable. As a practical matter, most mechanics will replace the entire
half-shaft (= axle) with a rebuilt one. A little higher parts cost and a
little less labor.

By R&I they mean "Remove & Install". If it were my car, I'd probably not
let Pep Boys or any of the other big franchises do the work. If you post
where you are located, someone in this group might recommend a good
mechanic in your area.

--
================================================== =====
A very modest collection of Honda tech info can be found at:
http://www.geocities.com/ng_randolph
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 14 Mar 2005, 12:21 pm
G-Man
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint

How many miles on the car? Many places sell the entire assembly for $100
with lifetime warranty...but you sill have to pay for the installation if it
fails.

I'd go somewhere other the PB. Where R U located?

G-Man


"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:a7f3d44aec851a62446af50aff038171@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> My hus band went and got new tire and they said we need a new cv boot. How
> much do they cost and how much would it be to get the joint and boot
> together? Also on the paper it says R&I Axle Shaft what does that mean.
> It's Pepboys where we got the tires so I don't know how well they do
> working on cars other than tires
>



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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 14 Mar 2005, 05:20 pm
Michael Pardee
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:a7f3d44aec851a62446af50aff038171@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> My hus band went and got new tire and they said we need a new cv boot. How
> much do they cost and how much would it be to get the joint and boot
> together? Also on the paper it says R&I Axle Shaft what does that mean.
> It's Pepboys where we got the tires so I don't know how well they do
> working on cars other than tires
>

If the torn boot was discovered in the process of replacing the tire,
chances are the lubrication in the CV joint is bad and the joint itself may
already be on the way out. Most shops won't replace just the boot (split
boots are available for DIYers) because the joint is too likely to go bad,
and guess who pays then?

Replacement of the axle is usually the way to go. It is a tough DIY job
without air tools because of the tight axle nut and the *$^&! taper pin on
the ball joint. Prices of parts and labor vary widely. When I was lazy and
farmed out the axle replacement on my daughter's '93 Accord, Honda wanted
$300 parts and labor. I got the replacement part at NAPA for about $90 and
took it to an independent who quoted me $68 labor (I wouldn't do it for that
little, air tools or no!). Unfortunately the independent also tacked on a
4-wheel alignment for $40. An alignment is not needed when replacing the
axle. Phooey. Now I do it myself.

Mike


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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 15 Mar 2005, 06:00 am
rynniki
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint

Thanks for the advise. I have a good mechanic who told me he could replace
the axle for $190.00 including labor. The thing is we bought the car 2
years ago used but we knew the owner and they gave us all the maintaince
paperwork and the axles were just replaced right befire we bought the car
in 2003 the car had 115,530 miles on it then and its only got 121,171
miles on it now whuy would it be bad already?

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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 15 Mar 2005, 06:59 am
Michael Pardee
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:876543023fb0e54f6bc91055129dd85c@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Thanks for the advise. I have a good mechanic who told me he could replace
> the axle for $190.00 including labor. The thing is we bought the car 2
> years ago used but we knew the owner and they gave us all the maintaince
> paperwork and the axles were just replaced right befire we bought the car
> in 2003 the car had 115,530 miles on it then and its only got 121,171
> miles on it now whuy would it be bad already?
>

In that case, it is worth a quick peek yourself to be sure Pep Boys was
giving you the straight scoop. The boots should last 5 years in a hot
climate or 10 years in a cool climate.

Bad CV joint boots are very obvious. If you look under the car, where the
axles are a couple inches away from the wheels, you will see a large black
bellows-like rubber covering over the end of the axle. That is the boot, and
the outer CV joint is inside. (The outer boots almost always go before the
inner ones because they have to put up with the steering.) When they fail,
they tear at the bottom of one of the corrugations with the tear extending a
few inches at first and quickly extending most or all the way around the
axle. Large amounts of black grease are thrown out of the tear and the
grease is slung around the whole area.

$190 is a good price for parts & labor.

Mike


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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 15 Mar 2005, 08:54 am
rynniki
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint

The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?

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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 15 Mar 2005, 06:15 pm
Michael Pardee
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?
>

'Fraid so. The part is about half that amount at the chain parts stores, and
$100 is a decent price for the work involved. It isn't a huge amount of
work, but it is still a bit of a chore even with a lift and the proper
tools.

Since they were both apparently new only a couple years ago I wouldn't
recommend doing both sides. Normally it is better to bite the bullet and do
both since the other should be about ready to rip, but in your case the
mystery is why this one tore at all. (It's all about age and heat - I've
never heard of any being torn by road debris... although I suppose it could
happen.)

BTW - have the mechanic look the brake rotor over when he is in there. I
don't know about your car, but my daughter's '93 Accord is made so replacing
the brake rotor takes 90% of the work to replace the axle. If that's the
case and the rotor is headed for replacement soon, better to do it at the
same time.

Mike


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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 15 Mar 2005, 11:00 pm
WaterWatcher
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Default Re: cv boot or cv joint


"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:6f688e380a8f49fb865889783999d957@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> The price $190 is only for one is that still a good price?


I don't know what car you have but on a '95 Accord the dealer charged me
$290 to do one and my mechanic charged me $145 to do the other. I replaced
my own on a '90 Civic and it wasn't a tough job other than I had to do the
right one four times due to crappy parts. I do have rust free cars, though,
so they come apart relatively easily.

WW


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