Honda Car Forum

Recently Ive been having problems with getting heat and possible
engine overheating. I though the thermostat was stuck, so I replaced
it. That didnt do anything.

The car was started I got nothing. When i drove around the block
(which lasted no longer than 5 minutes) the engine temp gauge started
rapidly climbing. Eventually, it went to the red line.

When I shut it off, it hadnt been running for more than 15 minutes. I
popped the hood to check the engine. Im sure t wasnt overhewating. i
could still touch the engine with my hands and it was just a litle
hot-nothing unusual for runinng like that.

First, how what can it be thats taking my heat away? Its not even
getting a little warm.

Also, is my engine really overheating, or is it the gauge or something
else?

Thanks.

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tim1337 wrote:
>
> Recently Ive been having problems with getting heat and possible
> engine overheating. I though the thermostat was stuck, so I replaced
> it. That didnt do anything.
>
> The car was started I got nothing. When i drove around the block
> (which lasted no longer than 5 minutes) the engine temp gauge started
> rapidly climbing. Eventually, it went to the red line.
>
> When I shut it off, it hadnt been running for more than 15 minutes. I
> popped the hood to check the engine. Im sure t wasnt overhewating. i
> could still touch the engine with my hands and it was just a litle
> hot-nothing unusual for runinng like that.
>
> First, how what can it be thats taking my heat away? Its not even
> getting a little warm.
>
> Also, is my engine really overheating, or is it the gauge or something
> else?

Perhaps the water pump no longer works? If so, you will get no heat
inside the car and the engine will overheat. Depending on where the
temperature sender for the gauge is located, the gauge may or may not
register that the engine is overheating. If it is a failed water pump,
you can easily ruin the engine if you drive the car before getting it
fixed.

"tim1337" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:422a872c$1_5@alt.athenanews.com...
> Recently Ive been having problems with getting heat and possible
> engine overheating. I though the thermostat was stuck, so I replaced
> it. That didnt do anything.
>
> The car was started I got nothing. When i drove around the block
> (which lasted no longer than 5 minutes) the engine temp gauge started
> rapidly climbing. Eventually, it went to the red line.
>
> When I shut it off, it hadnt been running for more than 15 minutes. I
> popped the hood to check the engine. Im sure t wasnt overhewating. i
> could still touch the engine with my hands and it was just a litle
> hot-nothing unusual for runinng like that.
>
> First, how what can it be thats taking my heat away? Its not even
> getting a little warm.
>
> Also, is my engine really overheating, or is it the gauge or something
> else?
>
> Thanks.
>
As Randall says, it sounds like the coolant isn't circulating. Since the
guage starts reading right and then climbs to red line in about the time
we'd expect for no coolant flow, I don't think the guage is lying. Don't
drive that car until you get this sorted out or you will be dealing with a
warped cylinder head on top of whatever's doing this.

There have been sporadic reports of water pumps that have lost their vanes,
but you could also be dealing with a blockage or other coolant supply
problem.

If your timing belt is due for replacement soon, you may want to bite the
bullet and get the timing belt and water pump replaced now. The labor is
essentially the same to do one as to do both. If the timing belt isn't due
for a few more years, the gurus here may have some tips and hints for
checking the water pump and coolant flow.

Mike

"michaeltnull" wrote:
> "tim1337" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> news:422a872c$1_5@alt.athenanews.com...
> > Recently Ive been having problems with getting heat and
> possible
> > engine overheating. I though the thermostat was stuck, so I
> replaced
> > it. That didnt do anything.
> >
> > The car was started I got nothing. When i drove around the
> block
> > (which lasted no longer than 5 minutes) the engine temp
> gauge started
> > rapidly climbing. Eventually, it went to the red line.
> >
> > When I shut it off, it hadnt been running for more than 15
> minutes. I
> > popped the hood to check the engine. Im sure t wasnt
> overhewating. i
> > could still touch the engine with my hands and it was just a
> litle
> > hot-nothing unusual for runinng like that.
> >
> > First, how what can it be thats taking my heat away? Its not
> even
> > getting a little warm.
> >
> > Also, is my engine really overheating, or is it the gauge or
> something
> > else?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> As Randall says, it sounds like the coolant isn't circulating.
> Since the
> guage starts reading right and then climbs to red line in
> about the time
> we'd expect for no coolant flow, I don't think the guage is
> lying. Don't
> drive that car until you get this sorted out or you will be
> dealing with a
> warped cylinder head on top of whatever's doing this.
>
> There have been sporadic reports of water pumps that have lost
> their vanes,
> but you could also be dealing with a blockage or other coolant
> supply
> problem.
>
> If your timing belt is due for replacement soon, you may want
> to bite the
> bullet and get the timing belt and water pump replaced now.
> The labor is
> essentially the same to do one as to do both. If the timing
> belt isn't due
> for a few more years, the gurus here may have some tips and
> hints for
> checking the water pump and coolant flow.
>
> Mike

is replacing the water pump hard/expensive?

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In article <422a872c$1_5@alt.athenanews.com>, tim1337
<UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

> Recently Ive been having problems with getting heat and possible
> engine overheating. I though the thermostat was stuck, so I replaced
> it. That didnt do anything.
>
> The car was started I got nothing. When i drove around the block
> (which lasted no longer than 5 minutes) the engine temp gauge started
> rapidly climbing. Eventually, it went to the red line.
>
> When I shut it off, it hadnt been running for more than 15 minutes. I
> popped the hood to check the engine. Im sure t wasnt overhewating. i
> could still touch the engine with my hands and it was just a litle
> hot-nothing unusual for runinng like that.
>
> First, how what can it be thats taking my heat away? Its not even
> getting a little warm.
>
> Also, is my engine really overheating, or is it the gauge or something
> else?
>
> Thanks.

I agree with the other posters that told you that it could be a defective
water pump. I once replaced a water pump and it was a lot of work. Since
it is clear from your later post that you have never before replaced a
water pump, I advise you to have a friend help you-that has done it
before-or take it to a mechanic that you trust. If possible, watch the
mechanic so that you can learn how to do it yourself. If you decide to do
the work yourself, you should have a repair manual for your car--you can
buy one at almost any auto store such as NAPA or AutoZone.

--
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We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people.

"tim1337" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:422b4e6e$1_1@alt.athenanews.com...
> "michaeltnull" wrote:
> > As Randall says, it sounds like the coolant isn't circulating.
> > Since the
> > guage starts reading right and then climbs to red line in
> > about the time
> > we'd expect for no coolant flow, I don't think the guage is
> > lying. Don't
> > drive that car until you get this sorted out or you will be
> > dealing with a
> > warped cylinder head on top of whatever's doing this.
> >
> > There have been sporadic reports of water pumps that have lost
> > their vanes,
> > but you could also be dealing with a blockage or other coolant
> > supply
> > problem.
> >
> > If your timing belt is due for replacement soon, you may want
> > to bite the
> > bullet and get the timing belt and water pump replaced now.
> > The labor is
> > essentially the same to do one as to do both. If the timing
> > belt isn't due
> > for a few more years, the gurus here may have some tips and
> > hints for
> > checking the water pump and coolant flow.
> >
> > Mike
>
> is replacing the water pump hard/expensive?
>
I'm afraid so. The pump is nestled behind the timing belt. The major steps
are:
1) drain the coolant system (naturally)
2) remove the crankshaft pulleys (harmonic balancer)... this takes a hefty
impact wrench or a pulley holding tool and a socket with giganamous cheater
bar. It *cannot* be done with the old trick of putting the socket handle on
a jackstand and bumping the starter because the engine turns the wrong way.
The pulley holding tool is useful even with the impact wrench.
3) remove the timing belt cover and timing belt
4) remove the water pump
5) put it back together about the way it came apart, but without all the
colorful language describing the insanely tight hardware.

Many of us lump water pump replacement in with timing belt replacement
because the first three steps are the same. The market price for timing belt
and water pump replacement is around $500 all told, but it is possible to
pay significantly more and possible to pay significantly less. As a DIY job
it definitely gets into the "very challenging" range unless you can get a
shop to break that crank bolt loose and retorque it for you. The spec'd
torque is under 200 ft-lbs but it gets extremely stubborn over the years.
The bolt is accessible easily enough to make that a practical approach if
you can find a shop willing to do it (or if you rent a powerful torque
wrench and buy a 19 mm impact socket).

Mike

"michaeltnull" wrote:
> "tim1337" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> news:422b4e6e$1_1@alt.athenanews.com...
> > "michaeltnull" wrote:
> &nbsp;> > As Randall says, it sounds like the coolant isn't
> circulating.
> &nbsp;> > Since the
> &nbsp;> > guage starts reading right and then climbs to red
> line in
> &nbsp;> > about the time
> &nbsp;> > we'd expect for no coolant flow, I don't think the
> guage is
> &nbsp;> > lying. Don't
> &nbsp;> > drive that car until you get this sorted out or you
> will be
> &nbsp;> > dealing with a
> &nbsp;> > warped cylinder head on top of whatever's doing
> this.
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > There have been sporadic reports of water pumps that
> have lost
> &nbsp;> > their vanes,
> &nbsp;> > but you could also be dealing with a blockage or
> other coolant
> &nbsp;> > supply
> &nbsp;> > problem.
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > If your timing belt is due for replacement soon, you
> may want
> &nbsp;> > to bite the
> &nbsp;> > bullet and get the timing belt and water pump
> replaced now.
> &nbsp;> > The labor is
> &nbsp;> > essentially the same to do one as to do both. If the
> timing
> &nbsp;> > belt isn't due
> &nbsp;> > for a few more years, the gurus here may have some
> tips and
> &nbsp;> > hints for
> &nbsp;> > checking the water pump and coolant flow.
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Mike
> >
> > is replacing the water pump hard/expensive?
> >
> I'm afraid so. The pump is nestled behind the timing belt. The
> major steps
> are:
> 1) drain the coolant system (naturally)
> 2) remove the crankshaft pulleys (harmonic balancer)... this
> takes a hefty
> impact wrench or a pulley holding tool and a socket with
> giganamous cheater
> bar. It *cannot* be done with the old trick of putting the
> socket handle on
> a jackstand and bumping the starter because the engine turns
> the wrong way.
> The pulley holding tool is useful even with the impact wrench.
> 3) remove the timing belt cover and timing belt
> 4) remove the water pump
> 5) put it back together about the way it came apart, but
> without all the
> colorful language describing the insanely tight hardware.
>
> Many of us lump water pump replacement in with timing belt
> replacement
> because the first three steps are the same. The market price
> for timing belt
> and water pump replacement is around $500 all told, but it is
> possible to
> pay significantly more and possible to pay significantly less.
> As a DIY job
> it definitely gets into the "very challenging" range unless
> you can get a
> shop to break that crank bolt loose and retorque it for you.
> The spec'd
> torque is under 200 ft-lbs but it gets extremely stubborn over
> the years.
> The bolt is accessible easily enough to make that a practical
> approach if
> you can find a shop willing to do it (or if you rent a
> powerful torque
> wrench and buy a 19 mm impact socket).
>
> Mike

Ok, on my way home from school (about a 15 minute drive) and when i
was almost home, I hit a small pot hole and heard kind of a pop. My
engine was running hot for about 5 minutes. Instantly, my heat turned
on and the temp gauge went down to normal. When i got home my engine
was a little smoky. (Terrible to run it that hot, I know, but I needed
to go) The car drove and sounded fine afterwards too.

im thinking this is a good sign or a very bad sign....

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"tim1337" wrote:
> Ok, on my way home from school (about a 15 minute drive) and
> when i was almost home, I hit a small pot hole and heard kind
> of a pop. My engine was running hot for about 5 minutes.
> Instantly, my heat turned on and the temp gauge went down to
> normal. When i got home my engine was a little smoky.
> (Terrible to run it that hot, I know, but I needed to go) The
> car drove and sounded fine afterwards too.
>
> im thinking this is a good sign or a very bad sign....

It should also be noted that I went over some really rough bumps the
day it all started happening.