Honda Car Forum

My wife's 1992 Accord EX 2.2 has developed a nasty vibration when the engine
is cold at idle, even more noticable when in gear. Only vibrates during cold
idle and not at higher engine speeds or when engine is up to temperature.

Searched through Google Groups and found MANY people with the same problem,
stating it's a common problem with this era of Accord. I've seen suggestion
about doing "this that and the other thing" to remedy the problem.
Including, but not limited to, intake and injector cleaning, valve
adjustment, plugs, cap, rotor, wire, O2 sensor, EGR cleaning/replacment,
engine mount check/replacement, idle control valve, etc, etc.

My problem is I haven't found any thread stating the problem had been
remedied by doing any number of these, except for the motor mount. The
people that had a vibration due to a bad motor mount had the vibration all
the time, not only when cold and not only at idle. Ours is only at cold
idle. The people with the cold idle vibration don't seem to have the problem
solved, or haven't posted what their solution was.

The car is due for a tune-up anyways, so that will be done in a couple of
days. I'll also check for vacuum leaks and do a compression test while I'm
under the hood. It also has an exhaust leak at the centre pipe to muffler
flange that will be repaired soon. If the vibration doesn't go away, what
should I do next?

Steve Mackie

In article <XrCdnS4o0M6u-4bfRVn-hA@rogers.com>, "Steve Mackie"
<stevemackie@rogers.com> wrote:

> My wife's 1992 Accord EX 2.2 has developed a nasty vibration when the engine
> is cold at idle, even more noticable when in gear. Only vibrates during cold
> idle and not at higher engine speeds or when engine is up to temperature.
>
> Searched through Google Groups and found MANY people with the same problem,
> stating it's a common problem with this era of Accord. I've seen suggestion
> about doing "this that and the other thing" to remedy the problem.
> Including, but not limited to, intake and injector cleaning, valve
> adjustment, plugs, cap, rotor, wire, O2 sensor, EGR cleaning/replacment,
> engine mount check/replacement, idle control valve, etc, etc.
>
> My problem is I haven't found any thread stating the problem had been
> remedied by doing any number of these, except for the motor mount. The
> people that had a vibration due to a bad motor mount had the vibration all
> the time, not only when cold and not only at idle. Ours is only at cold
> idle. The people with the cold idle vibration don't seem to have the problem
> solved, or haven't posted what their solution was.
>
> The car is due for a tune-up anyways, so that will be done in a couple of
> days. I'll also check for vacuum leaks and do a compression test while I'm
> under the hood. It also has an exhaust leak at the centre pipe to muffler
> flange that will be repaired soon. If the vibration doesn't go away, what
> should I do next?
>
> Steve Mackie

Steve,
You mentioned that you plan to get a tune-up in a couple of days. I advise
you to tell the service manager or mechanic the problems that you are
having. He may be able to fix the problem. It's fairly easy to find
problems when a car is placed on a lift. Ask the mechanic to place the car
on a lift and check for any problems--esp. the engine mounts.

--
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We respect those subscribers that ask for advice or provide advice.
We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people.

Steve Mackie wrote:
> My wife's 1992 Accord EX 2.2 has developed a nasty vibration when the engine
> is cold at idle, even more noticable when in gear. Only vibrates during cold
> idle and not at higher engine speeds or when engine is up to temperature.
>
> Searched through Google Groups and found MANY people with the same problem,
> stating it's a common problem with this era of Accord. I've seen suggestion
> about doing "this that and the other thing" to remedy the problem.
> Including, but not limited to, intake and injector cleaning, valve
> adjustment, plugs, cap, rotor, wire, O2 sensor, EGR cleaning/replacment,
> engine mount check/replacement, idle control valve, etc, etc.
>
> My problem is I haven't found any thread stating the problem had been
> remedied by doing any number of these, except for the motor mount. The
> people that had a vibration due to a bad motor mount had the vibration all
> the time, not only when cold and not only at idle. Ours is only at cold
> idle. The people with the cold idle vibration don't seem to have the problem
> solved, or haven't posted what their solution was.
>
> The car is due for a tune-up anyways, so that will be done in a couple of
> days. I'll also check for vacuum leaks and do a compression test while I'm
> under the hood. It also has an exhaust leak at the centre pipe to muffler
> flange that will be repaired soon. If the vibration doesn't go away, what
> should I do next?
>
> Steve Mackie


----------------------------

All is speculation without knowing the mileage. I'd guess it's the valve
adjustment. CR-Vs are terrible when the valves get too tight, with
stalling during the warm-up, but they go on to burn valves, like the
integra. If you're in Canada, run a couple tanks of Mohawk Ethanol gas
thru it and see if it smoothes out.

'Curly'

> You mentioned that you plan to get a tune-up in a couple of days. I advise
> you to tell the service manager or mechanic the problems that you are
> having. He may be able to fix the problem. It's fairly easy to find
> problems when a car is placed on a lift. Ask the mechanic to place the car
> on a lift and check for any problems--esp. the engine mounts.

I am the mechanic. But I will check the engine mounts.

> All is speculation without knowing the mileage. I'd guess it's the valve
> adjustment. CR-Vs are terrible when the valves get too tight, with
> stalling during the warm-up, but they go on to burn valves, like the
> integra. If you're in Canada, run a couple tanks of Mohawk Ethanol gas
> thru it and see if it smoothes out.

160,000kms. What do you mean by the valves getting too tight? What will the
ethanol gas do? The last experience I had with ethanol gas I put it in a
Cavalier I used to own and it ran like shit until that gas was all gone and
I got regular gas in it.

Steve

"Steve Mackie" <stevemackie@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:suCdnWT-keGR64bfRVn-pg@rogers.com...
>> You mentioned that you plan to get a tune-up in a couple of days. I
>> advise
>> you to tell the service manager or mechanic the problems that you are
>> having. He may be able to fix the problem. It's fairly easy to find
>> problems when a car is placed on a lift. Ask the mechanic to place the
>> car
>> on a lift and check for any problems--esp. the engine mounts.
>
> I am the mechanic. But I will check the engine mounts.
>
Since you mention "worse when in gear" I assume it is an automatic
transmission. In that case, the rear mounts should be electronically
controlled hydraulic mounts designed to solve exactly that problem.
According to the Haynes manual, section 2A-18, "any diagnostic work must be
done by a dealer service department or qualified repair shop."

Mike

> According to the Haynes manual, section 2A-18, "any diagnostic work must
> be done by a dealer service department or qualified repair shop."

I'm going to assume you posted that quote for a laugh.

"Steve Mackie" <stevemackie@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:MtGdnZLv-PtZKIbfRVn-hg@rogers.com...
>> According to the Haynes manual, section 2A-18, "any diagnostic work must
>> be done by a dealer service department or qualified repair shop."
>
> I'm going to assume you posted that quote for a laugh.
>
I just report it, not write it.

The system doesn't look that complex, just well buried. FWIW, the Haynes for
our Volvo 765T says the same thing about the A/C system. (Not that it has
electronically controlled hydraulics - that it should only be touched by the
dealer or holy scribe. "Oh Wah Ta Goo Siam")

Mike

Steve Mackie wrote:
>>All is speculation without knowing the mileage. I'd guess it's the valve
>>adjustment. CR-Vs are terrible when the valves get too tight, with
>>stalling during the warm-up, but they go on to burn valves, like the
>>integra. If you're in Canada, run a couple tanks of Mohawk Ethanol gas
>>thru it and see if it smoothes out.
>
>
> 160,000kms. What do you mean by the valves getting too tight? What will the
> ethanol gas do? The last experience I had with ethanol gas I put it in a
> Cavalier I used to own and it ran like shit until that gas was all gone and
> I got regular gas in it.
>
> Steve

-------------------------------

The valves on the Integra / early CRV engine get tighter as the engine
ages. If they're not adjusted in time, they will start burning.
Unfortunately the manual says to ignore them unless they get noisy :-(
In the North American manuals it says to wait till 105,000 miles for a
valve adjustment. UK manuals apparently say 50,000 Km, (30,000 miles).

Ethanol is a great cleaner and remover of moisture. It cleaned up a
sticking injector for me, and might absorb water lurking in your tank
and filter. Sure it's not great as an engine fuel, but it does fix a
couple of other problems that sound like what you're asking about.

'Curly'

Always start with the basics. Have the plug wires and cap and rotor EVER
been changed? When a car comes into our shop and it is 13 years old with OEM
wires on it and running ruff, we start with that. So first put new plugs,
wires cap and rotor (the basics to the ignition system) and see if the
problem is gone. If not, then we get into advanced diagnostics.
Yesterday a 1986 Chevy Caprice Classic came in with misfire and ruff
running. (As the engine "loads up" when placed in gear it always will seem
worse) The car had the original spark plug wires on it. We did all the
basics ant it left running fine. Now the front brakes were at the squeelers
and the radiator is about to blow but it ran good!




--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Undercar Specialist



"Steve Mackie" <stevemackie@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:suCdnWT-keGR64bfRVn-pg@rogers.com...
>> You mentioned that you plan to get a tune-up in a couple of days. I
>> advise
>> you to tell the service manager or mechanic the problems that you are
>> having. He may be able to fix the problem. It's fairly easy to find
>> problems when a car is placed on a lift. Ask the mechanic to place the
>> car
>> on a lift and check for any problems--esp. the engine mounts.
>
> I am the mechanic. But I will check the engine mounts.
>