Honda Car Forum

I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.

A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
distributor cap when I wanted to see it.

The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
normal.

The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
The car is a '94 Accord LX.

Rudy

"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.

That's the same speed that my Accords' engines idle. No problems here.

Brian Smith wrote:
> "R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
>
>>The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
>>700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
>>the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
>>or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
>>The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
>
> That's the same speed that my Accords' engines idle. No problems here.
>
>

ditto, I have a 2000 accord and it idles around 700 or 750 when warm,
and my previous '91 accord sat at 700 when warm. I gather that's the
norm so if your's stalls then it could be something else.

"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-
ow@comcast.com:

>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.



If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
replaced when it should have been replaced.

The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that gap,
which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
distributor failure.


>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.


Neglect again.


>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting.



Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to idle
speed. Please describe exact symptoms.



> If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.


The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll be
around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.

If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>
> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
idle
> speed.

Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.

Brian

"Brian Smith" <Halifax@NovaScotia.Canada> wrote in message
news:R3vGd.86223$nN6.45336@edtnps84...
>
> "TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
> news:Xns95E05FE46C599teggeratistop@207.14.113.17.. .
>>
>> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
>> speed.
>
> Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've had quite a few Honda
> cars over the years and none of them have ever stalled for me, even once.
>
> Brian
>
>
It isn't normal, only common. There is something specifically wrong, and
when it is fixed you won't have the symptom (stalling).

Mike

>Stalling can't be that common a Honda problem. I've >had quite a few Honda
cars over the years and none of >them have ever stalled for me, even once.
Ditto! Never had any one of my 9 Honda's stall.

>abut about half the cost was due to a replacement of the >distributor
assembly that cost me $400 even though it >was a rebuilt Delco model . Is
this reasonable? I was >told a new original from Honda could cost me
$500->600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even >from Honda,"
Had your "cheaper" independent known more about Honda than will admit, you
should have bought and installed a distributor sub-assembly from Honda.
Probably would have cost half as much. A sub-assembly is brand new and is
the distributor body, shaft and pickup with harness. You exchange your
igniter, cap, rotor and coil (if internal). This would have saved you a
bundle and probably not caused your idle/stalling problem.

So much for those "cheap" independents!




"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
> I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
> independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
> about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
> but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
> assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
> Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
> $500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
> should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
> but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
> seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
> Rudy
>
>

"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote:
> If the carbon contact was worn that much, then you've not had the cap
> replaced when it should have been replaced.

Strange, because I took the car to every scheduled maintenance job (at
7,500 mile intervals) to the Honda dealer and to oil changes in-between.
I paid a fortune for those maintenance jobs.
I would expect them to take care of such things.

> The ignition system is strong enough to allow a spark to jump that
> gap,
> which is why the car ran OK. Forcing the spark to jump that gap throws
> extra load on other ignition components, perhaps one reason you had a
> distributor failure.

I don't know ... It looked more like an oil seal problem than
electrical one.

> Stalling during starting is a common Honda problem and is unrelated to
> idle
> speed. Please describe exact symptoms.

Interesting, because it did not stall before this maintenance.
The symptom seems to be showing up mostly when I start the car when the
engine is still warm and put the shift from Park to Rear or Forward
gear. That gear shift seems to slow down the idle to the point of
stall. I think I'll take the car to the same shop tomorrow to fix this
because it could be a safety issue if the car stalls as I move into a
main street from a Stop sign.

> The full-warm idle speed in Drive is around 750rpm. In Neutral it'll
> be
> around 1K. When cold it should idle about 1,500-1,700rpm.

This one idles around 1,100 when cold.

> If you're stalling at 700rpm, you've got a different problem.

Perhaps I am mistaking that notch on the odometer for 750 when it's only
500 or 600.

Rudy

"Howard" <howardh@nospam-cybrstar.com> wrote:
> Had your "cheaper" independent known more about Honda than will admit,
> you
> should have bought and installed a distributor sub-assembly from
> Honda.
> Probably would have cost half as much. A sub-assembly is brand new and
> is
> the distributor body, shaft and pickup with harness. You exchange your
> igniter, cap, rotor and coil (if internal). This would have saved you
> a
> bundle and probably not caused your idle/stalling problem.

I'm going to make a trip to a Honda dealer's part department and ask
for the price of that subassembly. I'd be really surprised if it was
under $500 because one thing I noticed in the past was how expensive
original Honda parts were.

> So much for those "cheap" independents!

Well, this small independent chain is pretty well regarded and many
of them employ former Honda mechanics. This particular store has one
with some 12 years of authorized Honda service background. I must say
that I often found my car running worse after an authorized Honda
service visit than before, despite of the high bills they charge. That
stuck thermostat and worn distributor cap should have been cought by
them at my prior visit and it was not.
So much for expensive "authorized" Honda service.

Rudy

"R. P." <r_pol12gar@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Z_WdnS-jj_xwv3fcRVn-ow@comcast.com...
> I finally made the move from the expensive Honda dealer service to an
> independent chain specializing in Japanese cars. I have mixed feelings
> about it because it did not cost me less than a typical dealer service,
> but about half the cost was due to a replacement of the distributor
> assembly that cost me $400 even though it was a rebuilt Delco model .
> Is this reasonable? I was told a new original from Honda could cost me
> $500-600. From what I figure a rebuilt one that's not even from Honda,
> should not cost more than about half of the cost of a new Honda brand,
> but what do I know? The reason for replacement was that the oil was
> seeping through it, so it was probably just a bad oil seal.
>
> A smaller problem was in the distributor cap where the center carbon rod
> was burned out and there was not even a solid contact between the top
> and the bottom center. Interestingly though I never noticed any problem
> with ignition before. Now I wonder if I was shown my own original
> distributor cap when I wanted to see it.
>
> The car seems to run better now, especially because they also replaced
> the thermostat that was stuck open before which I believe because the
> temp gage used to show no warming for quite a long time. Now it looks
> normal.
>
> The only thing that is worse now than before is the idling speed (aound
> 700) that seems too low and I stall often during starting. If I recall
> the idle speed used to be around 1,000 RPM before. Is it easy to adjust
> or I'm going to have to make another appointment with that shop?
> The car is a '94 Accord LX.
>
> Rudy
>
>

Is your Accord an automatic or manual tranny? There should be a sticker on
the inside of the hood that lists the recommended idle speeds. If memory
serves me, the idle speeds are different depending on the type of tranny.
At least my 2000 civic was like that. You may want to check that sticker to
see what Honda says your engine should be idling at. Keep in mind, these
are the warm idle speeds so if it's cold, it should idle higher and
gradually come down to the recommended speed as the engine warms up.