Honda Car Forum

There you go -- you should be able to tell where it is coming from
using Rick's test.

One more thing, in case you have to replace the ignitor: the original
one was just attached to a plate with screws. It did not have heat
sink compound between these two surfaces. This stuff will help the
thing get rid of its heat better and will probably help it in getting
old. It is commonly used in the electronic industry and I was quite
surprised none was present.

Heatsink compound can be bought at Radio Shack -- it comes in a tube
and has a toothpaste like consistency. Put a blob on the middle of the
ignitor and tighten the screws - it spreads out nicely and just wipe
off the excess.

Hope it all worked out for you and get it running soon.
Remco





"Ricky Spartacus" <rickyspartan@mailandnews.com,ricspa@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<1099750601.e0rX8qYcSGLs6sayocykDA@bubbanews> ...
> "flycivic" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message news:418a5b73$1_4@alt.athenanews.com...
>
> > motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt
> > remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the
> > coil? thanks much for all the help
>
> Put a bulb on the coil +, - then crank.
> Flash = bad coil. No flash = igniter not switching.
>
> Put a DVOM on the coil +, - then crank.
> Toggles between 12VDC and zero = bad coil. No toggle = igniter not switching.
>
> Rick