Honda Car Forum

"Bill Freeman" <bfree@myBlueLight.com> wrote in message
news:2ukm9gF2bpka2U1@uni-berlin.de...
> Use full synthetic. Stick by recommended temperature weights and
> SASA or MilSpec for your area (usually 5w-20 or 5w-30 for snow areas).
> Change according to owner's warranty, thereafter every 6,000 miles or two
> years, IMHO. (1990 Acura Integra, 82,000 miles). Strongly recommend
> synthetic in lawnmowers and all other powered equipment. Synthetic flows
> in
> cold weather while petroleums do not. Most engine wear is during cold
> starting .. . - Bill
>

I also favor synthetic, even more so because of the greatly increased
detergency. That raises a warning though - seals sometimes leak in older
cars when they are changed to synthetic. The prevailing theory is that it
dissolves deposits that the seals have been depending on, and the hardened
seals won't make the adjustment. If you can handle the possibility of
leaking main or cam seals, synthetic is clearly the way to go. (I recently
switched my daughter's '93 Accord to synthetic blend at 200K miles... it was
a success.)

Mike

>
> tms1337 <tms2780@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:ad381660892b5f3fc121ff4f25bc4de6@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> Simple question here. I have a 1988 Accord LX, and I was just wondering
>> what type of oil I have to put it in.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>
>

I've heard this rumor. I inherited an '85 Buick LeSabre with
60,000, changed it over to full synthetic four years ago with no leaks and
much better winter starting. My guesss would be that if you have an older
auto with leaks, changing to synthetic might not be the smartest of
strategies. Cure the leak first.


Michael Pardee <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:9aWdnXEdY8W20RjcRVn-1w@sedona.net...
> "Bill Freeman" <bfree@myBlueLight.com> wrote in message
> news:2ukm9gF2bpka2U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Use full synthetic. Stick by recommended temperature weights and
> > SASA or MilSpec for your area (usually 5w-20 or 5w-30 for snow areas).
> > Change according to owner's warranty, thereafter every 6,000 miles or
two
> > years, IMHO. (1990 Acura Integra, 82,000 miles). Strongly recommend
> > synthetic in lawnmowers and all other powered equipment. Synthetic
flows
> > in
> > cold weather while petroleums do not. Most engine wear is during cold
> > starting .. . - Bill
> >
>
> I also favor synthetic, even more so because of the greatly increased
> detergency. That raises a warning though - seals sometimes leak in older
> cars when they are changed to synthetic. The prevailing theory is that it
> dissolves deposits that the seals have been depending on, and the hardened
> seals won't make the adjustment. If you can handle the possibility of
> leaking main or cam seals, synthetic is clearly the way to go. (I recently
> switched my daughter's '93 Accord to synthetic blend at 200K miles... it
was
> a success.)
>
> Mike
>
> >
> > tms1337 <tms2780@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:ad381660892b5f3fc121ff4f25bc4de6@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> >> Simple question here. I have a 1988 Accord LX, and I was just wondering
> >> what type of oil I have to put it in.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

"Bill Freeman" <bfree@myBlueLight.com> wrote in message
news:2uni5qF2d2ut7U1@uni-berlin.de...
> I've heard this rumor. I inherited an '85 Buick LeSabre with
> 60,000, changed it over to full synthetic four years ago with no leaks and
> much better winter starting. My guesss would be that if you have an older
> auto with leaks, changing to synthetic might not be the smartest of
> strategies. Cure the leak first.
>
I'm thinking that the factors determining whether an older car will have
problems with the leaks may include high temperatures (I had leaks after
using engine flushes - slow learner, eh? - in Phoenix) and probably a spotty
history of oil changes (most of the cars that did that were beaters.) I like
the idea of taking existing leaks as a warning sign.

Mike

>
> Michael Pardee <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
> news:9aWdnXEdY8W20RjcRVn-1w@sedona.net...
>> "Bill Freeman" <bfree@myBlueLight.com> wrote in message
>> news:2ukm9gF2bpka2U1@uni-berlin.de...
>> > Use full synthetic. Stick by recommended temperature weights
>> > and
>> > SASA or MilSpec for your area (usually 5w-20 or 5w-30 for snow areas).
>> > Change according to owner's warranty, thereafter every 6,000 miles or
> two
>> > years, IMHO. (1990 Acura Integra, 82,000 miles). Strongly recommend
>> > synthetic in lawnmowers and all other powered equipment. Synthetic
> flows
>> > in
>> > cold weather while petroleums do not. Most engine wear is during cold
>> > starting .. . - Bill
>> >
>>
>> I also favor synthetic, even more so because of the greatly increased
>> detergency. That raises a warning though - seals sometimes leak in older
>> cars when they are changed to synthetic. The prevailing theory is that it
>> dissolves deposits that the seals have been depending on, and the
>> hardened
>> seals won't make the adjustment. If you can handle the possibility of
>> leaking main or cam seals, synthetic is clearly the way to go. (I
>> recently
>> switched my daughter's '93 Accord to synthetic blend at 200K miles... it
> was
>> a success.)
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> >
>> > tms1337 <tms2780@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> > news:ad381660892b5f3fc121ff4f25bc4de6@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> >> Simple question here. I have a 1988 Accord LX, and I was just
>> >> wondering
>> >> what type of oil I have to put it in.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>