Honda Car Forum

Greetings All

I've got a problem with my Automatic 97 EX - non-VTEC (Canadian) 127Km

Progressively over time, I've noticed that when I come to a stop the car
starts to shake and the idle drops below the 500 Rpm Idle.
If I remove my foot from the brake, it'll return to idle quicker.
Stepping on the brake definitely has an affect on the idle speed when
stopped.

This only happens when the engine is cold and goes away after it's fully
warmed up.

So, today I decided replace the plugs, cap, rotor and generally just clean
things up.
Unfortunately, the kid at NAPA didn't know what Cap and Rotor to give me, so
I just left with the plugs and figured I'd just scrape any oxidation of the
cap terminals for now.

After that, I took it for a test drive and it now totally stalls at stops
before idling at around 100, or so, RPM.

I did properly gap the plugs to 1.1mm as per the sticker under the hood.

Any help appreciated..
Mike..

In article <MYtRc.5378$Mq1.154240@news20.bellglobal.com>, "Mike"
<idont@think.so> wrote:

> Greetings All
>
> I've got a problem with my Automatic 97 EX - non-VTEC (Canadian) 127Km
>
> Progressively over time, I've noticed that when I come to a stop the car
> starts to shake and the idle drops below the 500 Rpm Idle.
> If I remove my foot from the brake, it'll return to idle quicker.
> Stepping on the brake definitely has an affect on the idle speed when
> stopped.
>
> This only happens when the engine is cold and goes away after it's fully
> warmed up.
>
> So, today I decided replace the plugs, cap, rotor and generally just clean
> things up.
> Unfortunately, the kid at NAPA didn't know what Cap and Rotor to give me, so
> I just left with the plugs and figured I'd just scrape any oxidation of the
> cap terminals for now.
>
> After that, I took it for a test drive and it now totally stalls at stops
> before idling at around 100, or so, RPM.
>
> I did properly gap the plugs to 1.1mm as per the sticker under the hood.
>
> Any help appreciated..
> Mike..

After replacing cap and rotor repost and let us know if it solves the
problem. Also, reset the timing.

--
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We respect those subscribers that ask for advice or provide advice.
We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people.

How about plug wires, and maybe your PCV valve?

t

"Jason" <Jason@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:Jason-0808041706500001@pm4-broad-3.snlo.dialup.fix.net...
> In article <MYtRc.5378$Mq1.154240@news20.bellglobal.com>, "Mike"
> <idont@think.so> wrote:
>
> > Greetings All
> >
> > I've got a problem with my Automatic 97 EX - non-VTEC (Canadian) 127Km
> >
> > Progressively over time, I've noticed that when I come to a stop the car
> > starts to shake and the idle drops below the 500 Rpm Idle.
> > If I remove my foot from the brake, it'll return to idle quicker.
> > Stepping on the brake definitely has an affect on the idle speed when
> > stopped.
> >
> > This only happens when the engine is cold and goes away after it's fully
> > warmed up.
> >
> > So, today I decided replace the plugs, cap, rotor and generally just
clean
> > things up.
> > Unfortunately, the kid at NAPA didn't know what Cap and Rotor to give
me, so
> > I just left with the plugs and figured I'd just scrape any oxidation of
the
> > cap terminals for now.
> >
> > After that, I took it for a test drive and it now totally stalls at
stops
> > before idling at around 100, or so, RPM.
> >
> > I did properly gap the plugs to 1.1mm as per the sticker under the hood.
> >
> > Any help appreciated..
> > Mike..
>
> After replacing cap and rotor repost and let us know if it solves the
> problem. Also, reset the timing.
>
> --
> NEWSGROUP SUBSCRIBERS MOTTO
> We respect those subscribers that ask for advice or provide advice.
> We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people.
>
>
>
Do you mean reset the ECU ?
I think I may have done that unintentionally.
You see, the positive terminal of my battery was really crusty with battery
barf so I disconnected it, cleaned and sanded the terminal post and clamp.

Since I absolutely had to go to work today, I decided to chance it and drive
it in anyway.
The drive is all highway with 3 stops max between destinations.
It ran fine. No dipping RPM, no stalling.
It's still not a solid idle though. The car vibrates slightly at idle.

I think I'll replace the cap and rotor as you suggest anyway.
I need to do an emissions test before the end of the month.

Mike wrote:
> Greetings All
>
> I've got a problem with my Automatic 97 EX - non-VTEC (Canadian) 127Km
>
> Progressively over time, I've noticed that when I come to a stop the car
> starts to shake and the idle drops below the 500 Rpm Idle.
> If I remove my foot from the brake, it'll return to idle quicker.
> Stepping on the brake definitely has an affect on the idle speed when
> stopped.
>
> This only happens when the engine is cold and goes away after it's fully
> warmed up.
>
> So, today I decided replace the plugs, cap, rotor and generally just clean
> things up.
> Unfortunately, the kid at NAPA didn't know what Cap and Rotor to give me, so
> I just left with the plugs and figured I'd just scrape any oxidation of the
> cap terminals for now.
>
> After that, I took it for a test drive and it now totally stalls at stops
> before idling at around 100, or so, RPM.
>
> I did properly gap the plugs to 1.1mm as per the sticker under the hood.
>
> Any help appreciated..
> Mike..


===================

Mike, that's one of the same symptoms CRV will display just before
burning valves because they are too tight.

During warn-up, engine misfires or stalls at stop light. See what your
manual says, and maybe get the valves adjusted...

'Curly'

"motsco_ _" <"motsco_ _"@interbaun.com> wrote in message
news:412378FA.4080204@interbaun.com...
> Mike wrote:
> > Greetings All
> >
> > I've got a problem with my Automatic 97 EX - non-VTEC (Canadian) 127Km
> >
> > Progressively over time, I've noticed that when I come to a stop the car
> > starts to shake and the idle drops below the 500 Rpm Idle.
> > If I remove my foot from the brake, it'll return to idle quicker.
> > Stepping on the brake definitely has an affect on the idle speed when
> > stopped.
> >
> > This only happens when the engine is cold and goes away after it's fully
> > warmed up.
> >
> > So, today I decided replace the plugs, cap, rotor and generally just
clean
> > things up.
> > Unfortunately, the kid at NAPA didn't know what Cap and Rotor to give
me, so
> > I just left with the plugs and figured I'd just scrape any oxidation of
the
> > cap terminals for now.
> >
> > After that, I took it for a test drive and it now totally stalls at
stops
> > before idling at around 100, or so, RPM.
> >
> > I did properly gap the plugs to 1.1mm as per the sticker under the hood.
> >
> > Any help appreciated..
> > Mike..
>
>
> ===================
>
> Mike, that's one of the same symptoms CRV will display just before
> burning valves because they are too tight.
>
> During warn-up, engine misfires or stalls at stop light. See what your
> manual says, and maybe get the valves adjusted...
>
> 'Curly'
>
Thanks Curly
But, I think what I was experiencing was the ECM resetting after I pulled
the terminals off to clean them.

It idles a little better now and doesn't stall.
I even had it at the dealer yesterday for an emmisions test and oil change.
It passed with flying colours.

It's still not perfect and I may bring back to do the valve adustment and
idle setup as you suggest.