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Old 18 Apr 2004, 02:39 pm
Jim Sullivan
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Default 1996 rear door power lock

My 1996 Accord has just developed a grinding noise in the left rear door
when locking which I suspect is the motor.
I would like to get at the motor to check it out but I am not familiar with
the method of removing the door panel to gain access.
Can anyone offfer advice? Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks, Jim in FL.


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Old 18 Apr 2004, 11:33 pm
Randolph
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Default Re: 1996 rear door power lock

This is mostly from vague memory, but a few years ago I helped a friend
who had same problem ('96 Accord also).

Remove the door grab handle. There is one screw at the bottom of the
handle, covered with a small plastic cap. Unscrew it and pull the handle
up. Unplug any wires from electric window switches if so equipped.

Remove the trim piece around the door latch handle, I think there is one
screw to take out and then you push the trim piece forwards or backwards
about 1/4" and it comes out.

If you have manual windows you need to remove the crank. Use a wire hook
(crochet needle works well) to remove the wire clip that holds the crank
to the shaft. http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/CRANK.HTM gives an
overview of how to remove the crank, except on every window crank I have
ever removed the clip has been rotated 180 from what that drawing
shows.

The panel is held in place by plastic clips around the rear, bottom and
front edges. Start at the bottom rear corner of the door panel and pull
it away from the door Slide your fingers as far behind the panel as you
can when you pull out. There are special tools for this, but I have not
found them to be much of an improvement over the bare hands method.
Continue forward, then up the rear edge and the front edge. Stick your
hand between the panel and the door and disconnect the wire to the
courtesy light if so equipped. The panel is hooked over the edge of the
door under the window, so lift the panel up and away from the door. It
may take a little encouragement to get it up past the plastic triangle
at the rear end of the window, if needed this triangle can be pried off.
I don't remember if you have to remove the door lock knob or not, it
should be obvious looking at the door

The plastic vapor barrier is glued along the edges and is also held in
place with a couple of plastic plugs. Remove the plugs and slowly pull
along the glue seem to peel away the vapor barrier. Pull it away only as
much as needed.

Getting the lock actuator out is a royal pain, I think you need to
remove the rear window channel to get it out. I tried, but gave up. I
simply cut the wires to the OEM actuator (leaving it in place) and
mounted an after market actuator inside the steel shell of the door. I
used this kind: http://tinyurl.com/3ahfc

Jim Sullivan wrote:
>
> My 1996 Accord has just developed a grinding noise in the left rear door
> when locking which I suspect is the motor.
> I would like to get at the motor to check it out but I am not familiar with
> the method of removing the door panel to gain access.
> Can anyone offfer advice? Any suggestions will be appreciated.
> Thanks, Jim in FL.

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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 20 Apr 2004, 08:52 am
Jim Sullivan
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: 1996 rear door power lock

Thank you Randolph for your helpful directions. The configuration in my
Accord seems to be somewhat different than what you describe, but I will
attempt it anyway. I know my limitations so I don't expect to get very far
especially if I encounter any resistance in removing the panel. I'm afraid
I'll do more damage than I'll fix. Thank you again for your reply and
concern.
Jim in FL

"Randolph" <trash@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:4083579D.3BD6AD99@junkmail.com...
> This is mostly from vague memory, but a few years ago I helped a friend
> who had same problem ('96 Accord also).
>
> Remove the door grab handle. There is one screw at the bottom of the
> handle, covered with a small plastic cap. Unscrew it and pull the handle
> up. Unplug any wires from electric window switches if so equipped.
>
> Remove the trim piece around the door latch handle, I think there is one
> screw to take out and then you push the trim piece forwards or backwards
> about 1/4" and it comes out.
>
> If you have manual windows you need to remove the crank. Use a wire hook
> (crochet needle works well) to remove the wire clip that holds the crank
> to the shaft. http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/CRANK.HTM gives an
> overview of how to remove the crank, except on every window crank I have
> ever removed the clip has been rotated 180 from what that drawing
> shows.
>
> The panel is held in place by plastic clips around the rear, bottom and
> front edges. Start at the bottom rear corner of the door panel and pull
> it away from the door Slide your fingers as far behind the panel as you
> can when you pull out. There are special tools for this, but I have not
> found them to be much of an improvement over the bare hands method.
> Continue forward, then up the rear edge and the front edge. Stick your
> hand between the panel and the door and disconnect the wire to the
> courtesy light if so equipped. The panel is hooked over the edge of the
> door under the window, so lift the panel up and away from the door. It
> may take a little encouragement to get it up past the plastic triangle
> at the rear end of the window, if needed this triangle can be pried off.
> I don't remember if you have to remove the door lock knob or not, it
> should be obvious looking at the door
>
> The plastic vapor barrier is glued along the edges and is also held in
> place with a couple of plastic plugs. Remove the plugs and slowly pull
> along the glue seem to peel away the vapor barrier. Pull it away only as
> much as needed.
>
> Getting the lock actuator out is a royal pain, I think you need to
> remove the rear window channel to get it out. I tried, but gave up. I
> simply cut the wires to the OEM actuator (leaving it in place) and
> mounted an after market actuator inside the steel shell of the door. I
> used this kind: http://tinyurl.com/3ahfc
>
> Jim Sullivan wrote:
> >
> > My 1996 Accord has just developed a grinding noise in the left rear door
> > when locking which I suspect is the motor.
> > I would like to get at the motor to check it out but I am not familiar

with
> > the method of removing the door panel to gain access.
> > Can anyone offfer advice? Any suggestions will be appreciated.
> > Thanks, Jim in FL.

>




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