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Hi, I've had my 2001 Prelude since new. Manual, special edition. It
has burned oil since about a year or two into ownership. I brought it in to the dealer a few times and was always told it was 'normal' for preludes to burn a bit of oil. Last fall, the car had trouble starting. This spring it just wouldn't. Brought it in and dealer said spark plugs were fowled badly due to oil and engine codes showed a number of misfires, etc. Dealer said I need a new lower half to the engine!! WTF? Is this typical? Is there any way around this? I told the guy to change the spark plugs and left. Engine light came on a day later. *sigh* Do I have any options? Is this car only going to last me another month? Thanks, -Rob |
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danbobterror@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi, I've had my 2001 Prelude since new. Manual, special edition. It > has burned oil since about a year or two into ownership. I brought it > in to the dealer a few times and was always told it was 'normal' for > preludes to burn a bit of oil. Last fall, the car had trouble > starting. This spring it just wouldn't. Brought it in and dealer said > spark plugs were fowled badly due to oil and engine codes showed a > number of misfires, etc. Dealer said I need a new lower half to the > engine!! WTF? Is this typical? Is there any way around this? I told > the guy to change the spark plugs and left. Engine light came on a day > later. *sigh* Do I have any options? Is this car only going to last me > another month? Thanks, > > -Rob What weight oil are you using? I found that my Civic would burn oil after 60k miles on 5W-30, but not with 10W-30. If you are using 0W- or 5W-, try going up to 10W-. It shouldn't make a difference, yet it does. |
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Leftie <No@Thanks.net> wrote in news:%1nJl.91412$GU6.21230@newsfe09.iad:
> danbobterror@gmail.com wrote: >> Hi, I've had my 2001 Prelude since new. Manual, special edition. It >> has burned oil since about a year or two into ownership. I brought it >> in to the dealer a few times and was always told it was 'normal' for >> preludes to burn a bit of oil. Last fall, the car had trouble >> starting. This spring it just wouldn't. Brought it in and dealer said >> spark plugs were fowled badly due to oil and engine codes showed a >> number of misfires, etc. Dealer said I need a new lower half to the >> engine!! WTF? Is this typical? Is there any way around this? I told >> the guy to change the spark plugs and left. Engine light came on a day >> later. *sigh* Do I have any options? Is this car only going to last me >> another month? Thanks, >> >> -Rob > > > What weight oil are you using? I found that my Civic would burn oil > after 60k miles Then you have some kind of serious problem. No modern engine should get anything less than 8,000 miles per quart even at 100,000K. > on 5W-30, but not with 10W-30. After extensive testing of my own, I have found that there is zero difference in oil consumption between 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40. > If you are using 0W- or > 5W-, try going up to 10W-. It shouldn't make a difference, yet it does. I'd like to know your methodology. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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Tegger wrote: > Leftie <No@Thanks.net> wrote in news:%1nJl.91412$GU6.21230@newsfe09.iad: > > >>danbobterror@gmail.com wrote: >> >>>Hi, I've had my 2001 Prelude since new. Manual, special edition. It >>>has burned oil since about a year or two into ownership. I brought it >>>in to the dealer a few times and was always told it was 'normal' for >>>preludes to burn a bit of oil. Last fall, the car had trouble >>>starting. This spring it just wouldn't. Brought it in and dealer said >>>spark plugs were fowled badly due to oil and engine codes showed a >>>number of misfires, etc. Dealer said I need a new lower half to the >>>engine!! WTF? Is this typical? Is there any way around this? I told >>>the guy to change the spark plugs and left. Engine light came on a day >>>later. *sigh* Do I have any options? Is this car only going to last me >>>another month? Thanks, >>> >>>-Rob >> >> >> What weight oil are you using? I found that my Civic would burn oil >>after 60k miles > > > > > Then you have some kind of serious problem. No modern engine should get > anything less than 8,000 miles per quart even at 100,000K. > > > > > >>on 5W-30, but not with 10W-30. > > > > > After extensive testing of my own, I have found that there is zero > difference in oil consumption between 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40. > > > > >> If you are using 0W- or >>5W-, try going up to 10W-. It shouldn't make a difference, yet it does. > > > > > I'd like to know your methodology. > I would think that a compression test is in order. If the car has always used oil, methinks ring problem or ventilation right from the factory that never got corrected. JT |
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Tegger wrote:
> Leftie <No@Thanks.net> wrote in news:%1nJl.91412$GU6.21230@newsfe09.iad: > >> danbobterror@gmail.com wrote: >>> Hi, I've had my 2001 Prelude since new. Manual, special edition. It >>> has burned oil since about a year or two into ownership. I brought it >>> in to the dealer a few times and was always told it was 'normal' for >>> preludes to burn a bit of oil. Last fall, the car had trouble >>> starting. This spring it just wouldn't. Brought it in and dealer said >>> spark plugs were fowled badly due to oil and engine codes showed a >>> number of misfires, etc. Dealer said I need a new lower half to the >>> engine!! WTF? Is this typical? Is there any way around this? I told >>> the guy to change the spark plugs and left. Engine light came on a day >>> later. *sigh* Do I have any options? Is this car only going to last me >>> another month? Thanks, >>> >>> -Rob >> >> What weight oil are you using? I found that my Civic would burn oil >> after 60k miles > > > > Then you have some kind of serious problem. No modern engine should get > anything less than 8,000 miles per quart even at 100,000K. > > > > >> on 5W-30, but not with 10W-30. > > > > After extensive testing of my own, I have found that there is zero > difference in oil consumption between 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40. > > > >> If you are using 0W- or >> 5W-, try going up to 10W-. It shouldn't make a difference, yet it does. > > > > I'd like to know your methodology. > > > The Civic was run on Mobil One 15W-50 and 5W-30 full synthetic after the break-in period. It used virtually no oil between changes. The valves were always adjusted on schedule. After it hit about 70k miles I noticed rough running; it was diagnosed as oil-fouled plugs and O2 sensor. It was also down most of a quart of oil for the first time ever. They replaced the plugs, I replaced the sensor, and I stopped using the 5W- synthetic, using either the 15W-50 or a different brand of 10W-30 full synthetic. The car stopped burning oil and ten years later just suffered only a little leakdown if it sat for more than a few days. It was still fine when I sold it after 23 years and 146k miles. When I tried the same thing with an AMC six that was using oil, the oil consumption also stopped. To sum up, we've had opposite experiences with changing viscosities. I suspect that yours was due to the engines not using excessive oil in the first place - correct me if I'm wrong on that. It certainly won't hurt for this guy to switch to 10W-30, and it may help. I hope he tries it and reports back. |
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danbobterror@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi, I've had my 2001 Prelude since new. Manual, special edition. It > has burned oil since about a year or two into ownership. I brought it > in to the dealer a few times and was always told it was 'normal' for > preludes to burn a bit of oil. Last fall, the car had trouble > starting. This spring it just wouldn't. Brought it in and dealer said > spark plugs were fowled badly due to oil and engine codes showed a > number of misfires, etc. Dealer said I need a new lower half to the > engine!! WTF? Is this typical? Is there any way around this? I told > the guy to change the spark plugs and left. Engine light came on a day > later. *sigh* Do I have any options? Is this car only going to last me > another month? Thanks, > > -Rob Have you checked the PCV valve and associated plumbing? |
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Leftie <No@Thanks.net> wrote in
news:aTuJl.108985$e_5.69932@newsfe03.iad: > Tegger wrote: >> >> >> >> I'd like to know your methodology. >> >> >> > > The Civic was run on Mobil One 15W-50 15W-50 was not good choice. You surely suffered at least oil pump damage and bearing damage if not ring damage as well using that stuff. > and 5W-30 full synthetic > after > the break-in period. It used virtually no oil between changes. The > valves were always adjusted on schedule. After it hit about 70k miles > I noticed rough running; it was diagnosed as oil-fouled plugs and O2 > sensor. It was also down most of a quart of oil for the first time > ever. They replaced the plugs, I replaced the sensor, and I stopped > using the 5W- synthetic, using either the 15W-50 Why on earth would you use that viscosity? Your Honda's oil pump was not designed for it, and your Owner's Manual certainly does not call for it. No wonder you're burning oil; you broke your engine. > or a different brand > of 10W-30 full synthetic. The car stopped burning oil and ten years > later just suffered only a little leakdown if it sat for more than a > few days. It was still fine when I sold it after 23 years and 146k > miles. When I tried the same thing with an AMC six that was using oil, > the oil consumption also stopped. That was an older design of engine. Older-design engines often benefited from oil of higher viscosities once the miles piled up. > > To sum up, we've had opposite experiences with changing > viscosities. > I suspect that yours was due to the engines not using excessive oil in > the first place - correct me if I'm wrong on that. It certainly won't > hurt for this guy to switch to 10W-30, and it may help. 10W-30 won't hurt. Won't help either. > I hope he tries it and reports back. > He won't. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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Tegger wrote:
> Leftie <No@Thanks.net> wrote in > news:aTuJl.108985$e_5.69932@newsfe03.iad: > >> Tegger wrote: > >>> >>> >>> I'd like to know your methodology. >>> >>> >>> >> The Civic was run on Mobil One 15W-50 > > > > > 15W-50 was not good choice. You surely suffered at least oil pump damage > and bearing damage if not ring damage as well using that stuff. > > > >> and 5W-30 full synthetic >> after >> the break-in period. It used virtually no oil between changes. The >> valves were always adjusted on schedule. After it hit about 70k miles >> I noticed rough running; it was diagnosed as oil-fouled plugs and O2 >> sensor. It was also down most of a quart of oil for the first time >> ever. They replaced the plugs, I replaced the sensor, and I stopped >> using the 5W- synthetic, using either the 15W-50 > > > > Why on earth would you use that viscosity? Your Honda's oil pump was not > designed for it, and your Owner's Manual certainly does not call for it. > > No wonder you're burning oil; you broke your engine. > > > >> or a different brand >> of 10W-30 full synthetic. The car stopped burning oil and ten years >> later just suffered only a little leakdown if it sat for more than a >> few days. It was still fine when I sold it after 23 years and 146k >> miles. When I tried the same thing with an AMC six that was using oil, >> the oil consumption also stopped. > > > > That was an older design of engine. Older-design engines often benefited > from oil of higher viscosities once the miles piled up. > > > >> To sum up, we've had opposite experiences with changing >> viscosities. >> I suspect that yours was due to the engines not using excessive oil in >> the first place - correct me if I'm wrong on that. It certainly won't >> hurt for this guy to switch to 10W-30, and it may help. > > > > 10W-30 won't hurt. Won't help either. > > > >> I hope he tries it and reports back. >> > > > He won't. > > Did you even read what I wrote? The engine that I "broke" stopped burning oil and was still running strong on the original internals over a decade after this incident. I hope that you do a better job of reading work-related documents. |
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Leftie <No@Thanks.net> wrote in news:qiIJl.51827$gC1.50740@newsfe19.iad:
>> Leftie <No@Thanks.net> wrote in >> news:aTuJl.108985$e_5.69932@newsfe03.iad: >> >> >> >>> and 5W-30 full synthetic after >>> the break-in period. It used virtually no oil between changes. The >>> valves were always adjusted on schedule. After it hit about 70k >>> miles I noticed rough running; it was diagnosed as oil-fouled plugs >>> and O2 sensor. It was also down most of a quart of oil for the first >>> time ever. They replaced the plugs, I replaced the sensor, and I >>> stopped using the 5W- synthetic, using either the 15W-50 >>> or a different brand of 10W-30 full synthetic. The car stopped >>> burning oil and ten years later just suffered only a little leakdown >>> if it sat for more than a few days. It was still fine when I sold it >>> after 23 years and 146k miles. >> >> > > Did you even read what I wrote? Of course. > The engine that I "broke" stopped > burning oil and was still running strong on the original internals > over a decade after this incident. I wasn't there of course, so I have to accept your reporting as accurate, but I stand by my guess as to internal engine damage. Nobody should EVER do what you did with your car. 15W-50 is a /very/ bad choice for any modern engine. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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Tegger wrote:
> 15W-50 was not good choice. You surely suffered at least oil pump damage > and bearing damage if not ring damage as well using that stuff. Why on earth do you say that? What supposed mechanism will cause oil pump damage? I can almost believe the rings suffering due to decreased oil flow, but have a hard time believing that a 50wt oil (a comparatively wimpy 50wt at that.) will cause such severe starvation as to 'break' the them. M1's 15w-50 has tons of zinc, moly, and boron based anti-wear additives. Even IF oil delivery to the rings was reduced (by how much, 20~30%?) I don't think it could kill the engine in such a short time. I can't see any mechanism by which the plain crank bearings would be damaged. Europeans and those crazy Aussies routinely run xW-40 and xW-50wt oils in the very same engines that are spec'd for 10W30 in North America. Consider what happens every time you start your car on a cold morning. Until the engine is up to operating temp, the cold oil circulating and lubricating is vastly thicker than any hot 50wt. If thick-ish oil caused bearing damage, we'd all destroy our cars in short order. IMO. |
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