Honda Car Forum

I have a slightly puzzling problem. My 1997 Civic won't crank. I turn
the key, hear the click from under the hood and I get NOTHING.

At first, I thought the starter was going bad, because I could get it to
crank after several tries, then it stopped. Well, I changed the starter
today, and NOTHING. When I turn the key I hear the click from under the
hood, the fuel pump whirring, but I don't even get a crank out of the
engine.

It shouldn't be the battery, because it reads at 12.6 volts AND was
purchased in September 2008. Also, I don't get the classic lights go
out issue when I turn the key. It doesn't appear to be the clutch
safety switch because I get a different behavior when the clutch is
pressed in versus the clutch being all the way out. All connections at
the battery are solid, and the battery to chassis and engine to chassis
have nice clean connections.

I am worried it may be ECU related which will suck

ChrisB wrote:
> I have a slightly puzzling problem. My 1997 Civic won't crank. I turn
> the key, hear the click from under the hood and I get NOTHING.
>
> At first, I thought the starter was going bad, because I could get it to
> crank after several tries, then it stopped. Well, I changed the starter
> today, and NOTHING. When I turn the key I hear the click from under the
> hood, the fuel pump whirring, but I don't even get a crank out of the
> engine.
>
> It shouldn't be the battery, because it reads at 12.6 volts AND was
> purchased in September 2008. Also, I don't get the classic lights go
> out issue when I turn the key. It doesn't appear to be the clutch
> safety switch because I get a different behavior when the clutch is
> pressed in versus the clutch being all the way out. All connections at
> the battery are solid, and the battery to chassis and engine to chassis
> have nice clean connections.
>
> I am worried it may be ECU related which will suck

Well after consulting the service manual, looks like I have some more
research to do just to make sure it isn't the clutch safety, starter cut
relay, or the replacement starter itself

I do have one question though. Why does the service manual suggest
removing Fuse No. 44, the 15 amp fuse in the under the hood fuse box as
the first step in the starter testing?

ChrisB wrote:
> I have a slightly puzzling problem. My 1997 Civic won't crank. I turn
> the key, hear the click from under the hood and I get NOTHING.
>
> At first, I thought the starter was going bad, because I could get it to
> crank after several tries, then it stopped. Well, I changed the starter
> today, and NOTHING. When I turn the key I hear the click from under the
> hood, the fuel pump whirring, but I don't even get a crank out of the
> engine.
>
> It shouldn't be the battery, because it reads at 12.6 volts AND was
> purchased in September 2008. Also, I don't get the classic lights go
> out issue when I turn the key. It doesn't appear to be the clutch
> safety switch because I get a different behavior when the clutch is
> pressed in versus the clutch being all the way out. All connections at
> the battery are solid, and the battery to chassis and engine to chassis
> have nice clean connections.
>
> I am worried it may be ECU related which will suck


There are two simple possibilities: a bad connection/corroded
battery cable that lets some but not enough amperage through, and a very
weak battery. I think 12.6 volts is actually kind of low, although maybe
not if you've been draining it with the accessories while trying to
start it.

On 3/31/09 10:04 PM, in article
kP-dnd_sHYYmRE_UnZ2dnUVZ_huWnZ2d@giganews.com, "ChrisB"
<chrisb@somewhere.com> wrote:

> I have a slightly puzzling problem. My 1997 Civic won't crank. I turn
> the key, hear the click from under the hood and I get NOTHING.
>
> At first, I thought the starter was going bad, because I could get it to
> crank after several tries, then it stopped. Well, I changed the starter
> today, and NOTHING. When I turn the key I hear the click from under the
> hood, the fuel pump whirring, but I don't even get a crank out of the
> engine.
>
> It shouldn't be the battery, because it reads at 12.6 volts AND was
> purchased in September 2008. Also, I don't get the classic lights go
> out issue when I turn the key. It doesn't appear to be the clutch
> safety switch because I get a different behavior when the clutch is
> pressed in versus the clutch being all the way out. All connections at
> the battery are solid, and the battery to chassis and engine to chassis
> have nice clean connections.
>
> I am worried it may be ECU related which will suck

What happens if you try to jump it from another car? That'll tell you right
off if the battery is the problem.

Is this a parts store starter or OEM? If not OEM, the odds are high that at
least part of your problem is the new starter.

E. Meyer wrote:
>
>
> What happens if you try to jump it from another car? That'll tell you right
> off if the battery is the problem.
>
> Is this a parts store starter or OEM? If not OEM, the odds are high that at
> least part of your problem is the new starter.
>

Well, I'll be. I must have run the battery down too low while trying to
juice the bad starter, that when I installed the replacement starter,
the battery was already too low to turn it. A couple of hours on the
charger now has my battery resting at 12.95 volts with the car off, and
I am getting 14.4 to 14.5 volts with the car running.

Now I just hope I didn't make a big mistake by going with a Duralast
starter over a Honda OEM...

ChrisB wrote:
> E. Meyer wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> What happens if you try to jump it from another car? That'll tell you
>> right
>> off if the battery is the problem.
>>
>> Is this a parts store starter or OEM? If not OEM, the odds are high
>> that at
>> least part of your problem is the new starter.
>
>
> Well, I'll be. I must have run the battery down too low while trying to
> juice the bad starter, that when I installed the replacement starter,
> the battery was already too low to turn it. A couple of hours on the
> charger now has my battery resting at 12.95 volts with the car off, and
> I am getting 14.4 to 14.5 volts with the car running.
>
> Now I just hope I didn't make a big mistake by going with a Duralast
> starter over a Honda OEM...


Duralast IIRC is a product of AutoZone which makes it a crap shoot.

Better to get the old one rebuilt be a local reliable rebuilder.

JT

ChrisB wrote:
> E. Meyer wrote:
>>
>>
>> What happens if you try to jump it from another car? That'll tell you
>> right
>> off if the battery is the problem.
>>
>> Is this a parts store starter or OEM? If not OEM, the odds are high
>> that at
>> least part of your problem is the new starter.
>
> Well, I'll be. I must have run the battery down too low while trying to
> juice the bad starter, that when I installed the replacement starter,
> the battery was already too low to turn it. A couple of hours on the
> charger now has my battery resting at 12.95 volts with the car off, and
> I am getting 14.4 to 14.5 volts with the car running.


You're welcome. ;-)


>
> Now I just hope I didn't make a big mistake by going with a Duralast
> starter over a Honda OEM...

Having it work when first installed is a good "start." Listen to it
carefully over the next few months.

"ChrisB" <chrisb@somewhere.com> wrote in message
news:JdSdncUOvPkDX07UnZ2dnUVZ_sPinZ2d@giganews.com ...
> E. Meyer wrote:
>>
>>
>> What happens if you try to jump it from another car? That'll tell you
>> right
>> off if the battery is the problem.
>>
>> Is this a parts store starter or OEM? If not OEM, the odds are high that
>> at
>> least part of your problem is the new starter.
>
> Well, I'll be. I must have run the battery down too low while trying to
> juice the bad starter, that when I installed the replacement starter, the
> battery was already too low to turn it. A couple of hours on the charger
> now has my battery resting at 12.95 volts with the car off, and I am
> getting 14.4 to 14.5 volts with the car running.
>
> Now I just hope I didn't make a big mistake by going with a Duralast
> starter over a Honda OEM...

I wouldn't worry about it. My 86 Civic's OEM starter lasted 5 winters here
in Alaska. I replaced it with a NAPA starter in 1993 (bought the Honda used)
and that starter is still cranking along fine. Contrary to what others in
this group will tell you, not every bit and piece on a Honda should be
replaced with OEM parts. Some yes definitely but I have had very
satisfactory replacements from NAPA and even some from Car Quest. Good luck
to you....

DaveD

On 4/2/09 1:38 AM, in article 49d45d84$1@news.acsalaska.net, "Dave D"
<dtdodson@acsalaska.net> wrote:

>
> "ChrisB" <chrisb@somewhere.com> wrote in message
> news:JdSdncUOvPkDX07UnZ2dnUVZ_sPinZ2d@giganews.com ...
>> E. Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> What happens if you try to jump it from another car? That'll tell you
>>> right
>>> off if the battery is the problem.
>>>
>>> Is this a parts store starter or OEM? If not OEM, the odds are high that
>>> at
>>> least part of your problem is the new starter.
>>
>> Well, I'll be. I must have run the battery down too low while trying to
>> juice the bad starter, that when I installed the replacement starter, the
>> battery was already too low to turn it. A couple of hours on the charger
>> now has my battery resting at 12.95 volts with the car off, and I am
>> getting 14.4 to 14.5 volts with the car running.
>>
>> Now I just hope I didn't make a big mistake by going with a Duralast
>> starter over a Honda OEM...
>
> I wouldn't worry about it. My 86 Civic's OEM starter lasted 5 winters here
> in Alaska. I replaced it with a NAPA starter in 1993 (bought the Honda used)
> and that starter is still cranking along fine. Contrary to what others in
> this group will tell you, not every bit and piece on a Honda should be
> replaced with OEM parts. Some yes definitely but I have had very
> satisfactory replacements from NAPA and even some from Car Quest. Good luck
> to you....
>
> DaveD
>
>
NAPA is usually a step up from the junk that some of the lesser places sell.
My experience has been about 30% of the cheap parts store starters I've
tried worked correctly. Either DOA (easy to diagnose) or they draw
excessive current (harder to diagnose, symptoms are slow cranking and
rapidly dead batteries).

If the OP got a good one, I agree there is nothing to worry about. They
seem to be pretty pretty much a go/no go proposition.