Honda Car Forum

I'm going to install NGK platinum spark plugs (PZFR5F-11) on my '91 Accord
LX this weekend. Do I need a torque wrench, or is there a way to tell how
much torque to apply? Someone told me I should barely tighten the spark
plug, then tighten another half a turn (180 degrees). Is that true?

Thanks for any comment/suggestion.

Dave

Hi,
Not really if you used to work on cars for some time. You get the hang
of it sensing how tight is tight. Too much is worse than too little. Also
cheap wrench is not trustworthy. I replaced many plugs in my life time
and never caused any trouble. I do have a pro quality wrench as well.
Plug has two kinds, one does not have washer, one does have collapsible
washer. I'd use a silicon paste on the thread and tighten it like you
mentioned, between half to full turn after making contact.
Tony

Dave Hau wrote:

> I'm going to install NGK platinum spark plugs (PZFR5F-11) on my '91 Accord
> LX this weekend. Do I need a torque wrench, or is there a way to tell how
> much torque to apply? Someone told me I should barely tighten the spark
> plug, then tighten another half a turn (180 degrees). Is that true?
>
> Thanks for any comment/suggestion.
>
> Dave
>
>

You might find it handy to have a foot long piece of rubber gas line
that will hold on to the terminal end of the spark plug. On this Honda,
the plug is down in a hole in the cam cover. I use the socket to loosen
the plugs all the way and the rubber hose to lift them from the recess
in the cover. Then I stick a new plug on the end of the hose tool and
use it to start the plug in the head. Keeps you from cross threading it.
Tighten it by hand with just the socket and extension until it seats.
Then tighten it with the wrench handle.
You may find lots of oil on the bottom of the old plugs. Just means
that the little round seals at the bottom of the plug hole are leaking.
The seals are part of the valve cover gasket set, and are relatively
easy to replace.
Good Luck to you. Let us know how it goes. bob

I would apply some never seize compound to the threads of the new plugs, and
use some dielectric grease to the spark plug boots.

I use a torque wrench when working with aluminum heads, even if you use a
cheap 3/8's drive its cheaper than plulling the threads out of the head, or
haveing a plug blow out at an unexpected time.

Tom

"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3F96EBC6.FC6E4AB9@neo.rr.com...
> You might find it handy to have a foot long piece of rubber gas line
> that will hold on to the terminal end of the spark plug. On this Honda,
> the plug is down in a hole in the cam cover. I use the socket to loosen
> the plugs all the way and the rubber hose to lift them from the recess
> in the cover. Then I stick a new plug on the end of the hose tool and
> use it to start the plug in the head. Keeps you from cross threading it.
> Tighten it by hand with just the socket and extension until it seats.
> Then tighten it with the wrench handle.
> You may find lots of oil on the bottom of the old plugs. Just means
> that the little round seals at the bottom of the plug hole are leaking.
> The seals are part of the valve cover gasket set, and are relatively
> easy to replace.
> Good Luck to you. Let us know how it goes. bob

Forget the 180 degree cuz that depends on whether they have washers or taper
seat. Do it right and use a torque wrench.
Also heed the other post on anti seize compound and dielectric grease.

"Dave Hau" <davehau-no-spam-123@no-spam.netscape.net> wrote in message
news:99ylb.781$2t2.674@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com. ..
> I'm going to install NGK platinum spark plugs (PZFR5F-11) on my '91 Accord
> LX this weekend. Do I need a torque wrench, or is there a way to tell how
> much torque to apply? Someone told me I should barely tighten the spark
> plug, then tighten another half a turn (180 degrees). Is that true?
>
> Thanks for any comment/suggestion.
>
> Dave
>
>

"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in
news:3F96EBC6.FC6E4AB9@neo.rr.com:

> You might find it handy to have a foot long piece of rubber gas line
> that will hold on to the terminal end of the spark plug. On this Honda,
> the plug is down in a hole in the cam cover. I use the socket to loosen
> the plugs all the way and the rubber hose to lift them from the recess
> in the cover. Then I stick a new plug on the end of the hose tool and
> use it to start the plug in the head. Keeps you from cross threading it.
> Tighten it by hand with just the socket and extension until it seats.
> Then tighten it with the wrench handle.
> You may find lots of oil on the bottom of the old plugs. Just means
> that the little round seals at the bottom of the plug hole are leaking.
> The seals are part of the valve cover gasket set, and are relatively
> easy to replace.
> Good Luck to you. Let us know how it goes. bob
>

Don't spark plug sockets have a rubber cushion inside them to hold the plug
after loosening? (and to keep from breaking the plug)
The ones I've used had them.

--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
jyanik-at-kua.net

Hi,
Little magnet parts holder does well too.
Tony

N.E.Ohio Bob wrote:

> You might find it handy to have a foot long piece of rubber gas line
> that will hold on to the terminal end of the spark plug. On this Honda,
> the plug is down in a hole in the cam cover. I use the socket to loosen
> the plugs all the way and the rubber hose to lift them from the recess
> in the cover. Then I stick a new plug on the end of the hose tool and
> use it to start the plug in the head. Keeps you from cross threading it.
> Tighten it by hand with just the socket and extension until it seats.
> Then tighten it with the wrench handle.
> You may find lots of oil on the bottom of the old plugs. Just means
> that the little round seals at the bottom of the plug hole are leaking.
> The seals are part of the valve cover gasket set, and are relatively
> easy to replace.
> Good Luck to you. Let us know how it goes. bob

Hi,
Today I was out window shopping. When I checked prices of torque wrench,
they're 29.00 to 189.00 CAD. which is ~21.00 to 141.00 USD.
Tony

tflfb wrote:

> I would apply some never seize compound to the threads of the new plugs, and
> use some dielectric grease to the spark plug boots.
>
> I use a torque wrench when working with aluminum heads, even if you use a
> cheap 3/8's drive its cheaper than plulling the threads out of the head, or
> haveing a plug blow out at an unexpected time.
>
> Tom
>
> "N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:3F96EBC6.FC6E4AB9@neo.rr.com...
>
>>You might find it handy to have a foot long piece of rubber gas line
>>that will hold on to the terminal end of the spark plug. On this Honda,
>>the plug is down in a hole in the cam cover. I use the socket to loosen
>>the plugs all the way and the rubber hose to lift them from the recess
>>in the cover. Then I stick a new plug on the end of the hose tool and
>>use it to start the plug in the head. Keeps you from cross threading it.
>>Tighten it by hand with just the socket and extension until it seats.
>>Then tighten it with the wrench handle.
>>You may find lots of oil on the bottom of the old plugs. Just means
>>that the little round seals at the bottom of the plug hole are leaking.
>>The seals are part of the valve cover gasket set, and are relatively
>>easy to replace.
>>Good Luck to you. Let us know how it goes. bob
>
>
>

Mine had one too, until it got loose and stuck to the plug. Had to
switch to the rubber gas line that I had on hand, and have been using it
ever since. bob

Jim Yanik wrote:

> > Don't spark plug sockets have a rubber cushion inside them to hold the plug
> after loosening? (and to keep from breaking the plug)
> The ones I've used had them.
>
> --