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My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that) between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way. There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle or something. Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed for the job?? Frank |
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On 10/19/03 8:33 PM, in article OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com,
"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote: > My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a > valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that) > between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way. > There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see > getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle > or something. > > Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed > for the job?? > > Frank > > Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be about it. |
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In article <OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com>, "Frank van Hoof"
<thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote: > My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a > valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that) > between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way. > There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see > getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle > or something. > > Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed > for the job?? > > Frank The way I do my 95 is: Remove the front wheel. Partially remove the black plastic splash shield and let it hang down enough to access the pulley bolt. Use a 17mm deep socket. You may want to pull the plugs to turn the crank more freely. Inspect the plugs while you're at it. BTW, if you're having a ticking noise that's not eliminated by adjusting the valve lash, you may be hearing piston slap instead. As the weather is getting colder the noise is more pronounced...HTH -- Mike |
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>> >Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well >directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the >socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you >can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be >about it. If your car has a MT, you can put it in high gear and move it. I suggest NOT to do this on a hill! |
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"Bill Kapaun" <bkapaun@hotdeletemail.com> wrote in message news:bkapaun-2010030055140001@dialup-ras18-129.eug.or.uspops.net... > > >> > >Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well > >directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the > >socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you > >can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be > >about it. > > If your car has a MT, you can put it in high gear and move it. I suggest > NOT to do this on a hill! You must be from the old school. I used to bump my 280Z in 1976 that way to adjust the valves, and the old British sports cars as well, unless you had a hand crank. I recollect hand cranking a TR3s with bad starter in the 50s that way. And, an XKE I had -- simply push it, jump in and hit 2nd gear. You could do it by yourself. in fact. Ah memories. |
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mike-r@earthlink.net (Mike R) wrote in message news:<mike-r-2010030034200001@user-uivenke.dsl.mindspring.com>...
> In article <OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com>, "Frank van Hoof" > <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote: > > > My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a > > valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that) > > between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way. > > There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see > > getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle > > or something. pull the spark plugs and turn it over with a wrench on the p/s pump!! or use the crank bolt. i always find the way that requires the least amount of work. Chip |
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"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com... > My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a > valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that) > between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way. > There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see > getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle > or something. > > Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed > for the job?? > I use the camshaft bolt. Remove the spark plugs first. Or, if you have a manual trans, you can put it in 5th gear and push the car forward. Spudston |
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Spudston wrote:
> > I use the camshaft bolt. Remove the spark plugs first. Or, if you have a > manual trans, you can put it in 5th gear and push the car forward. > Using the camshaft bolt isn't such a great choice. It's only an 8mm bolt and would be easy to break. |
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Don' know how it is on your car, but on my '87 CRX si there's a hole
in the left front wheel well that's in line with the crankshaft. There's a rubber plug in said hole. Turn the tire to the left to get room, pull the plug and you're good to go. Oh, I think there may also be another plug on the pully cover, but maybe not. I can't quite remember, which means it's probably time to check my valves again... Dan On Sat, 25 Oct 2003 05:01:36 GMT, "Spudston" <reply_to_group@nomail.com> wrote: > >"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote in message >news:OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com.. . >> My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do >a >> valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if >that) >> between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way. >> There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see >> getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle >> or something. >> >> Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool >needed >> for the job?? >> >I use the camshaft bolt. Remove the spark plugs first. Or, if you have a >manual trans, you can put it in 5th gear and push the car forward. > >Spudston > |
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