Honda Car Forum

At about 170,000 miles I pulled my rotors and had them turned because
of a high speed vibration. They had never been turned before. After a
month they developed a vibration when braking but only around 30mps +-
10mph. Not above or below. At some point the car developed a pull to
the right I could also hear a strange metal sounding rubbing which
seemed to be on the passenger side. It is a pain to replace the rotors
so I put off pulling them. I looked at other possibilities but could
not explain the problem. I eventually gave up and pulled the rotors
again. At this time I replaced all the bushings with poly bushings.
The bushings looked bad so I figured why not. I fixed a problem with
one of the shocks. Repacked the CV joint boots, they were about to
crack, and bought brand new Napa life time warranty rotors. I also
replaced the proportioning valve because it was leaking. For about a
month all was good, and then I noticed a high speed vibration. After
an alignment the car still pulled and was getting worse. I rebuilt the
calipers but the car still pulled so I figured it was not a caliper
sticking. The noise seems to have come back but seems to be coming
from the driver side this time. Everything looks fine, the master
cylinder is new and the calipers and drums have new seals. Pedal feel
is better then ever dew to the new proportioning valve.

I have no idea why the rotors keep warping or why the car pulls. PLEAS
HELP

Austin wrote:
>
> At about 170,000 miles I pulled my rotors and had them turned because
> of a high speed vibration. They had never been turned before. After a
> month they developed a vibration when braking but only around 30mps +-
> 10mph. Not above or below. At some point the car developed a pull to
> the right I could also hear a strange metal sounding rubbing which
> seemed to be on the passenger side. It is a pain to replace the rotors
> so I put off pulling them. I looked at other possibilities but could
> not explain the problem. I eventually gave up and pulled the rotors
> again. At this time I replaced all the bushings with poly bushings.
> The bushings looked bad so I figured why not. I fixed a problem with
> one of the shocks. Repacked the CV joint boots, they were about to
> crack, and bought brand new Napa life time warranty rotors. I also
> replaced the proportioning valve because it was leaking. For about a
> month all was good, and then I noticed a high speed vibration. After
> an alignment the car still pulled and was getting worse. I rebuilt the
> calipers but the car still pulled so I figured it was not a caliper
> sticking. The noise seems to have come back but seems to be coming
> from the driver side this time. Everything looks fine, the master
> cylinder is new and the calipers and drums have new seals. Pedal feel
> is better then ever dew to the new proportioning valve.
>
> I have no idea why the rotors keep warping or why the car pulls. PLEAS
> HELP

----------------

Austin,
One or two hints: If your brakes were dragging enough to cause the car
to pull at highway speed, the fire department would be pulling you over
because of the SMOKE coming from your wheel. To prove that your front
brake isn't dragging, drive on highway for about five minutes (to allow
rotors to cool) and then pull off the road using ONLY your park brake.
Spit on the rotors to see if they're smoking. Use your finger next if
they don't hiss, but be careful.

I had a Volvo with a bad vacuum assist on the brakes, and it would
sometimes cause the brakes to remain locked after a hard stop. Shutting
off the engine (to kill the vacuum) was the only cure. Very awkward when
sitting in an intersection . . . . . . .

'Curly'
------------------

I have a 92 Accord that had the same problem. Changed rotors 3 times, each
time a new one,
changed the calipers, changed bearings and the problem came back each time
after 3-4 K. I took it
to the Honda dealer and they machined the rotors while on the car. It's been
80K km since then
and I have no problems. I was told that some 92 Accords had this problem.


"Austin" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3f7e4c12.25616154@news.easynews.com...
> At about 170,000 miles I pulled my rotors and had them turned because
> of a high speed vibration. They had never been turned before. After a
> month they developed a vibration when braking but only around 30mps +-
> 10mph. Not above or below. At some point the car developed a pull to
> the right I could also hear a strange metal sounding rubbing which
> seemed to be on the passenger side. It is a pain to replace the rotors
> so I put off pulling them. I looked at other possibilities but could
> not explain the problem. I eventually gave up and pulled the rotors
> again. At this time I replaced all the bushings with poly bushings.
> The bushings looked bad so I figured why not. I fixed a problem with
> one of the shocks. Repacked the CV joint boots, they were about to
> crack, and bought brand new Napa life time warranty rotors. I also
> replaced the proportioning valve because it was leaking. For about a
> month all was good, and then I noticed a high speed vibration. After
> an alignment the car still pulled and was getting worse. I rebuilt the
> calipers but the car still pulled so I figured it was not a caliper
> sticking. The noise seems to have come back but seems to be coming
> from the driver side this time. Everything looks fine, the master
> cylinder is new and the calipers and drums have new seals. Pedal feel
> is better then ever dew to the new proportioning valve.
>
> I have no idea why the rotors keep warping or why the car pulls. PLEAS
> HELP
>

On 10/3/03 11:41 PM, in article 3f7e4c12.25616154@news.easynews.com,
"Austin" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:

> At about 170,000 miles I pulled my rotors and had them turned because
> of a high speed vibration. They had never been turned before. After a
> month they developed a vibration when braking but only around 30mps +-
> 10mph. Not above or below. At some point the car developed a pull to
> the right I could also hear a strange metal sounding rubbing which
> seemed to be on the passenger side. It is a pain to replace the rotors
> so I put off pulling them. I looked at other possibilities but could
> not explain the problem. I eventually gave up and pulled the rotors
> again. At this time I replaced all the bushings with poly bushings.
> The bushings looked bad so I figured why not. I fixed a problem with
> one of the shocks. Repacked the CV joint boots, they were about to
> crack, and bought brand new Napa life time warranty rotors. I also
> replaced the proportioning valve because it was leaking. For about a
> month all was good, and then I noticed a high speed vibration. After
> an alignment the car still pulled and was getting worse. I rebuilt the
> calipers but the car still pulled so I figured it was not a caliper
> sticking. The noise seems to have come back but seems to be coming
> from the driver side this time. Everything looks fine, the master
> cylinder is new and the calipers and drums have new seals. Pedal feel
> is better then ever dew to the new proportioning valve.
>
> I have no idea why the rotors keep warping or why the car pulls. PLEAS
> HELP
>

I had a similar symptom on my '00 Acura TL. Turned out the problem was
caused by a bad upper ball joint on the one of the front wheels. A side
effect was that the extra heat from the wobbly ball joint also caused the
rotor to overheat and warp. I suggest you check that all the suspension
components are in spec.

That was one of my thoughts, it may be that the hubs have run out, and
that is the cause of the problem. Turning them on the car would fix
that. Good to know it helped you. However, i thought by 92 they had
switched to a difrent way of mounting the rotor. Mine is mounted to he
back of the hub instead of the front.

On Sat, 4 Oct 2003 10:34:23 -0700, "Oceanic" <OilofOley@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>I have a 92 Accord that had the same problem. Changed rotors 3 times, each
>time a new one,
>changed the calipers, changed bearings and the problem came back each time
>after 3-4 K. I took it
>to the Honda dealer and they machined the rotors while on the car. It's been
>80K km since then
>and I have no problems. I was told that some 92 Accords had this problem.
>
>
>"Austin" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:3f7e4c12.25616154@news.easynews.com...
>> At about 170,000 miles I pulled my rotors and had them turned because
>> of a high speed vibration. They had never been turned before. After a
>> month they developed a vibration when braking but only around 30mps +-
>> 10mph. Not above or below. At some point the car developed a pull to
>> the right I could also hear a strange metal sounding rubbing which
>> seemed to be on the passenger side. It is a pain to replace the rotors
>> so I put off pulling them. I looked at other possibilities but could
>> not explain the problem. I eventually gave up and pulled the rotors
>> again. At this time I replaced all the bushings with poly bushings.
>> The bushings looked bad so I figured why not. I fixed a problem with
>> one of the shocks. Repacked the CV joint boots, they were about to
>> crack, and bought brand new Napa life time warranty rotors. I also
>> replaced the proportioning valve because it was leaking. For about a
>> month all was good, and then I noticed a high speed vibration. After
>> an alignment the car still pulled and was getting worse. I rebuilt the
>> calipers but the car still pulled so I figured it was not a caliper
>> sticking. The noise seems to have come back but seems to be coming
>> from the driver side this time. Everything looks fine, the master
>> cylinder is new and the calipers and drums have new seals. Pedal feel
>> is better then ever dew to the new proportioning valve.
>>
>> I have no idea why the rotors keep warping or why the car pulls. PLEAS
>> HELP
>>
>

Didnt want to heat that, i suspect my ball joints may be past thier
prime, but it is not cheap to replace them. On a car this old i may
just deal with it until i can get a newer car. To put any money into
diagnosing a problem seems overpriced and takeing it to the dealer is
like throughing money on a fire, but at least they wouls have a good
chance of fixing it.

On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 18:58:16 GMT, "E. Meyer" <e.meyer@ieeeNOSPAM.org>
wrote:

>On 10/3/03 11:41 PM, in article 3f7e4c12.25616154@news.easynews.com,
>"Austin" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> At about 170,000 miles I pulled my rotors and had them turned because
>> of a high speed vibration. They had never been turned before. After a
>> month they developed a vibration when braking but only around 30mps +-
>> 10mph. Not above or below. At some point the car developed a pull to
>> the right I could also hear a strange metal sounding rubbing which
>> seemed to be on the passenger side. It is a pain to replace the rotors
>> so I put off pulling them. I looked at other possibilities but could
>> not explain the problem. I eventually gave up and pulled the rotors
>> again. At this time I replaced all the bushings with poly bushings.
>> The bushings looked bad so I figured why not. I fixed a problem with
>> one of the shocks. Repacked the CV joint boots, they were about to
>> crack, and bought brand new Napa life time warranty rotors. I also
>> replaced the proportioning valve because it was leaking. For about a
>> month all was good, and then I noticed a high speed vibration. After
>> an alignment the car still pulled and was getting worse. I rebuilt the
>> calipers but the car still pulled so I figured it was not a caliper
>> sticking. The noise seems to have come back but seems to be coming
>> from the driver side this time. Everything looks fine, the master
>> cylinder is new and the calipers and drums have new seals. Pedal feel
>> is better then ever dew to the new proportioning valve.
>>
>> I have no idea why the rotors keep warping or why the car pulls. PLEAS
>> HELP
>>
>
>I had a similar symptom on my '00 Acura TL. Turned out the problem was
>caused by a bad upper ball joint on the one of the front wheels. A side
>effect was that the extra heat from the wobbly ball joint also caused the
>rotor to overheat and warp. I suggest you check that all the suspension
>components are in spec.