Honda Car Forum

Hi,

I have an '87 Accord DX with carb fuel. My problem is rough running and
lack of power after the engine warms and drops to normal idle RPM (about 700
rpm). It has poor power getting under way or climbing hills from this
point. The problem appears to be intermittant as well. When I remove the
vacuum hose from the EGR valve, the car runs and idles normally. I replaced
the EGR ($200!) and it didn't solve the problem. My manual says that the
EGR control valve A and B could be causing the EGR valve to operate when it
shouldn't. I have not been able to find these and guess they are in the ECU
on the firewall. Is this correct? I took the lid off and looked inside
the box and it looked pretty scary. Has anyone had a similar problem and
is there a drawing (or picture) of the A and B EGR control valves available?
I'm planning to go to a wrecker this weekend to see if I can find a used
box. Could a bad oxygen sensor cause this problem?

Thanks in advance.
Dean Carriveau

"Dean Carriveau" <d.carriveau@worldnet.att.net> wrote in
news:ALNGk.63406$Mh5.39535@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

> Hi,
>
> I have an '87 Accord DX with carb fuel. My problem is rough running
> and lack of power after the engine warms and drops to normal idle RPM
> (about 700 rpm). It has poor power getting under way or climbing
> hills from this point. The problem appears to be intermittant as
> well. When I remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve, the car runs
> and idles normally. I replaced the EGR ($200!) and it didn't solve
> the problem. My manual says that the EGR control valve A and B could
> be causing the EGR valve to operate when it shouldn't. I have not
> been able to find these and guess they are in the ECU on the firewall.
> Is this correct? I took the lid off and looked inside the box and
> it looked pretty scary. Has anyone had a similar problem and is
> there a drawing (or picture) of the A and B EGR control valves
> available? I'm planning to go to a wrecker this weekend to see if I
> can find a used box. Could a bad oxygen sensor cause this problem?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Dean Carriveau
>
>
>

it's not the ECU.
And if the O2S were bad,it would not run "normally" with the EGR hose
disconnected.
maybe you have a cracked hose or a plugged hose?

Also pay attention to coolant levels in the radiator,not just looking at
the reservoir tank.The coolant temp sensor has to be immersed for it to
work right. there may be a air bleed port on your motor,that you open when
the engine is fully warmed up and bleed out any air.

Is there a diagram of the EGR system on the hood of your car?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

> is there a drawing (or picture) of the A and B EGR control valves available?
see Autozone repair guide

Changing the EGR doesn't do any good if the ports to the valve are blocked.
You only did half the job.

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9B309ADB3A823jyanikkuanet@74.209.136.86...
> "Dean Carriveau" <d.carriveau@worldnet.att.net> wrote in
> news:ALNGk.63406$Mh5.39535@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have an '87 Accord DX with carb fuel. My problem is rough running
>> and lack of power after the engine warms and drops to normal idle RPM
>> (about 700 rpm). It has poor power getting under way or climbing
>> hills from this point. The problem appears to be intermittant as
>> well. When I remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve, the car runs
>> and idles normally. I replaced the EGR ($200!) and it didn't solve
>> the problem. My manual says that the EGR control valve A and B could
>> be causing the EGR valve to operate when it shouldn't. I have not
>> been able to find these and guess they are in the ECU on the firewall.
>> Is this correct? I took the lid off and looked inside the box and
>> it looked pretty scary. Has anyone had a similar problem and is
>> there a drawing (or picture) of the A and B EGR control valves
>> available? I'm planning to go to a wrecker this weekend to see if I
>> can find a used box. Could a bad oxygen sensor cause this problem?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Dean Carriveau
>>
>>
>>
>
> it's not the ECU.
> And if the O2S were bad,it would not run "normally" with the EGR hose
> disconnected.
> maybe you have a cracked hose or a plugged hose?
>
> Also pay attention to coolant levels in the radiator,not just looking at
> the reservoir tank.The coolant temp sensor has to be immersed for it to
> work right. there may be a air bleed port on your motor,that you open when
> the engine is fully warmed up and bleed out any air.
>
> Is there a diagram of the EGR system on the hood of your car?
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net