Honda Car Forum

"somick" <sam.libman@gmail.com> wrote
> Checked TDC sensor according to the FSM. It has 27 kilohm
> instead of
> 300 ohm. I apparently need a new distributor housing.
> I am still not ready to shed 300 dollars, but in doubt
> there is
> anything else I can do. Majestic's Honda price is $258
> plus shipping
> is cheapest I was able to find.

I am assuming you checked and re-checked that resistance
reading.

If you have the time and inclination, you might be able to
replace just the sensor coil. I know at least one of the
three sensor coils comes out easily. See my chatter about
the CYP sensor coil at
http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/distributorbearing.

On the other hand, assuming you want to keep the car at
least five more years or so, then the $300 or so you'd spend
on a new housing may be a good investment. It should really
improve the car's performance, mileage and other ways. Plus
it is easy to do. The options below are more for the
hobbyist.

If you do not plan to keep this Accord much longer, then you
could buy an aftermarket distributor housing for about $175
at your local Autozone. You get not only the housing but a
new igniter and coil, too, in this case. Also check on the
warranty. Last I heard for some Autozone parts, you can just
keep replacing them and replacing them without extra charge.

Final option: Buy a second hand distributor housing at a
junkyard. You could do the resistance and continuity checks
before purchase. Plus typically if you want to exchange the
part and try another, you have 30 days or so to do so.

Thank you, elle
>
> I am assuming you checked and re-checked that resistance
> reading.

I will definitely do it again before spending 300 dollars.
>

> the CYP sensor coil athttp://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/distributorbearing.

Thanks for the link. I bookmarked it.
>
I will research all the options I have but I most likely inclined to
buying a cheap stuff and get rid of the car in a couple of years.

Thanks again,

Sam

Thank you, elle
>
> I am assuming you checked and re-checked that resistance
> reading.

I will definitely do it again before spending 300 dollars.
>

> the CYP sensor coil athttp://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/distributorbearing.

Thanks for the link. I bookmarked it.
>
I will research all the options I have but I most likely inclined to
buying a cheap stuff and get rid of the car in a couple of years.

Thanks again,

Sam

The time has come to report back.

I replaced the distributor housing with the remanufactured one, more
then a week ago and all the problems have gone away. No hard starting
and of course no “check engine” light.
Thanks for advice and suggestions!

Now a little story why it took me so long to reprt.
I ordered a part from rockauto. They sent me a wrong one. Image in
the FSM shows that that was a distributor from F22B1, while 1995
Accord has F22B2 engine. After countless e-mails and phone calls they
“kindly” accepted the return making the ordering of a wrong part my
fault. So I was responsible “only” for shipping!
By the way, that was the third wrong part for the same vehicle from
rockauto. Needless to say that my love affair with rockauto is over:
three strikes and you are out!
If somebody considers ordering from them beware: their database for
Honda the very list is not correct!

I finally ordered the remanufactured part from Kragen: free shipping,
which came to the same price as rockauto’s. Core return was also
free: I simply took it to the store.
Here is the price comparison: special order from the dealer - $292
versus Kragen’s - $165.

An interesting detail about the old distributor: insulation of the
wires was badly cracked. This actually explains the “check engine”
light.

Thanks again,

Sam

"somick" <sam.libman@gmail.com> wrote
>An interesting detail about the old distributor:
> insulation of the wires was badly cracked.
> This actually explains the “check engine”
> light.

This is good info to have. Reports like this have brought me
to the point where I think replacement of the dizzy housing
should be part of the maintenance schedule. Say, replace
every 10 years/150k miles, whichever comes first. :-)