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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 31 Aug 2008, 06:01 pm
Forrest
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Default Changing head gasket 89 Accord

I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. One of the
symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow tank. I
also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after cranking it
with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding cooling system
and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though the fan is
kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the thermostat housing
and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same result. Idle is
smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires,
timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just replaced
the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down myself and
replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks or advice
for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, level across
the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of having a shop
go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a beater with a
lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the rings aren't
that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a compression
test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a bit. I plan
on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting about another
30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 31 Aug 2008, 06:22 pm
Dan C
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord

On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:01:10 -0700, Forrest wrote:

> I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. One of the
> symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow tank. I
> also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after cranking it
> with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding cooling system
> and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though the fan is
> kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the thermostat housing
> and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same result. Idle is
> smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires,
> timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just replaced
> the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down myself and
> replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks or advice
> for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, level across
> the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of having a shop
> go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a beater with a
> lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the rings aren't
> that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a compression
> test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a bit. I plan
> on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting about another
> 30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies.


Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of it.
Go buy something else. Sheesh.


--
"Ubuntu" -- an African word, meaning "Slackware is too hard for me".
The Usenet Improvement Project: http://improve-usenet.org

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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 31 Aug 2008, 07:31 pm
Forrest
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord


"Dan C" <youmustbejoking@lan.invalid> wrote in message
newsan.2008.08.31.23.22.18.270781@moria2.lan...
> On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:01:10 -0700, Forrest wrote:
>
>> I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. One of
>> the
>> symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow tank. I
>> also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after cranking it
>> with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding cooling
>> system
>> and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though the fan
>> is
>> kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the thermostat
>> housing
>> and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same result. Idle
>> is
>> smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires,
>> timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just
>> replaced
>> the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down myself
>> and
>> replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks or
>> advice
>> for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, level
>> across
>> the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of having a
>> shop
>> go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a beater with
>> a
>> lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the rings
>> aren't
>> that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a
>> compression
>> test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a bit. I
>> plan
>> on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting about
>> another
>> 30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies.

>
> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
> Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of it.
> Go buy something else. Sheesh.
>

Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to it that I
hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of school left. He has
an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. We eventually want to get
him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" right away. I think I can keep this
tin can going with some bailing wire, duct tape and a few more parts here
and there. If I had to pay for labor, it would definitely be out of the
question.


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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 31 Aug 2008, 09:06 pm
Dan C
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord

On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 17:31:21 -0700, Forrest wrote:

>> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
>> Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of it.
>> Go buy something else. Sheesh.


> Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to it that I
> hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of school left. He has
> an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. We eventually want to get
> him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" right away. I think I can keep this
> tin can going with some bailing wire, duct tape and a few more parts here
> and there. If I had to pay for labor, it would definitely be out of the
> question.


So, you're comfortable with your son driving 350-400 miles per week in a
car like this? You really think that's a good idea? How safe do you
think this car is? Get him a decent car now, before it's too late.


--
"Ubuntu" -- an African word, meaning "Slackware is too hard for me".
The Usenet Improvement Project: http://improve-usenet.org

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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 31 Aug 2008, 11:52 pm
Forrest
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord


"Dan C" <youmustbejoking@lan.invalid> wrote in message
newsan.2008.09.01.02.06.32.683916@moria2.lan...
> On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 17:31:21 -0700, Forrest wrote:
>
>>> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
>>> Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of
>>> it.
>>> Go buy something else. Sheesh.

>
>> Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to it
>> that I
>> hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of school left. He
>> has
>> an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. We eventually want to get
>> him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" right away. I think I can keep
>> this
>> tin can going with some bailing wire, duct tape and a few more parts here
>> and there. If I had to pay for labor, it would definitely be out of the
>> question.

>
> So, you're comfortable with your son driving 350-400 miles per week in a
> car like this? You really think that's a good idea? How safe do you
> think this car is? Get him a decent car now, before it's too late.


No worries, mate. He has a birthday coming up in a few months and I'm
getting him some seat belts.


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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01 Sep 2008, 09:57 am
jim beam
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord

Forrest wrote:
> "Dan C" <youmustbejoking@lan.invalid> wrote in message
> newsan.2008.08.31.23.22.18.270781@moria2.lan...
>> On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:01:10 -0700, Forrest wrote:
>>
>>> I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. One of
>>> the
>>> symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow tank. I
>>> also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after cranking it
>>> with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding cooling
>>> system
>>> and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though the fan
>>> is
>>> kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the thermostat
>>> housing
>>> and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same result. Idle
>>> is
>>> smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires,
>>> timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just
>>> replaced
>>> the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down myself
>>> and
>>> replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks or
>>> advice
>>> for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, level
>>> across
>>> the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of having a
>>> shop
>>> go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a beater with
>>> a
>>> lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the rings
>>> aren't
>>> that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a
>>> compression
>>> test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a bit. I
>>> plan
>>> on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting about
>>> another
>>> 30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies.

>> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
>> Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of it.
>> Go buy something else. Sheesh.
>>

> Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to it that I
> hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of school left. He has
> an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. We eventually want to get
> him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" right away. I think I can keep this
> tin can going with some bailing wire, duct tape and a few more parts here
> and there. If I had to pay for labor, it would definitely be out of the
> question.
>
>


that's dan's response to everything here - ignore him.

re fixing the gasket, the parts are cheap, but it takes a while. use
gasket remover rather than abrasives to clean the head and block. if
it's flat, do not machine it. google this group for my highly biased
opinions on this subject.

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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01 Sep 2008, 12:09 pm
Dan C
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord

On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 21:52:48 -0700, Forrest wrote:

>> So, you're comfortable with your son driving 350-400 miles per week in a
>> car like this? You really think that's a good idea? How safe do you
>> think this car is? Get him a decent car now, before it's too late.


> No worries, mate. He has a birthday coming up in a few months and I'm
> getting him some seat belts.


Yeah, real funny. You should be ashamed of yourself.


--
"Ubuntu" -- an African word, meaning "Slackware is too hard for me".
The Usenet Improvement Project: http://improve-usenet.org

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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01 Sep 2008, 06:43 pm
Forrest
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord


"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:itydncBYzOSLniHVnZ2dnUVZ_gmdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Forrest wrote:
>> "Dan C" <youmustbejoking@lan.invalid> wrote in message
>> newsan.2008.08.31.23.22.18.270781@moria2.lan...
>>> On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:01:10 -0700, Forrest wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. One
>>>> of the
>>>> symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow tank.
>>>> I
>>>> also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after cranking
>>>> it
>>>> with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding cooling
>>>> system
>>>> and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though the
>>>> fan is
>>>> kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the thermostat
>>>> housing
>>>> and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same result.
>>>> Idle is
>>>> smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires,
>>>> timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just
>>>> replaced
>>>> the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down myself
>>>> and
>>>> replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks or
>>>> advice
>>>> for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, level
>>>> across
>>>> the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of having a
>>>> shop
>>>> go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a beater
>>>> with a
>>>> lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the rings
>>>> aren't
>>>> that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a
>>>> compression
>>>> test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a bit. I
>>>> plan
>>>> on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting about
>>>> another
>>>> 30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies.
>>> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
>>> Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of
>>> it.
>>> Go buy something else. Sheesh.
>>>

>> Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to it
>> that I hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of school
>> left. He has an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. We
>> eventually want to get him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" right
>> away. I think I can keep this tin can going with some bailing wire, duct
>> tape and a few more parts here and there. If I had to pay for labor, it
>> would definitely be out of the question.

>
> that's dan's response to everything here - ignore him.
>
> re fixing the gasket, the parts are cheap, but it takes a while. use
> gasket remover rather than abrasives to clean the head and block. if it's
> flat, do not machine it. google this group for my highly biased opinions
> on this subject.



Thanks for the reply, Jim. I Googled your posts and found them very
informative. I tore the front end of the engine apart last night. I'm now
trying to figure out how to get the intake side off. Lots of fun. I snapped
a bunch of pictures with the digital camera, just in case my memory fails
me. I have a photographic memory ... it just runs out of film now and then.
Question about coolant in oil : Will it always turn milky or can the
coolant or water dilute it without showing a change, other than being
thinner? This car has always been an oil leaker and my son adds some every
day. He told me last night that he thinks that the level has actually risen
on its own a few times. Now he tells me .. oh well.
I wonder if he may have added too much or at least more than he thought he
was, by checking the dipstick before the oil had a chance to get down to the
pan. I'm wondering if the lower part of the engine has suffered damage from
diluted oil. No milkiness. I'll post about the head condition when I get it
off. Guess I'll put in a few more hours this evening.


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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01 Sep 2008, 10:13 pm
jim beam
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord

Forrest wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:itydncBYzOSLniHVnZ2dnUVZ_gmdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> Forrest wrote:
>>> "Dan C" <youmustbejoking@lan.invalid> wrote in message
>>> newsan.2008.08.31.23.22.18.270781@moria2.lan...
>>>> On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:01:10 -0700, Forrest wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. One
>>>>> of the
>>>>> symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow tank.
>>>>> I
>>>>> also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after cranking
>>>>> it
>>>>> with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding cooling
>>>>> system
>>>>> and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though the
>>>>> fan is
>>>>> kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the thermostat
>>>>> housing
>>>>> and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same result.
>>>>> Idle is
>>>>> smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires,
>>>>> timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just
>>>>> replaced
>>>>> the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down myself
>>>>> and
>>>>> replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks or
>>>>> advice
>>>>> for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, level
>>>>> across
>>>>> the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of having a
>>>>> shop
>>>>> go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a beater
>>>>> with a
>>>>> lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the rings
>>>>> aren't
>>>>> that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a
>>>>> compression
>>>>> test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a bit. I
>>>>> plan
>>>>> on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting about
>>>>> another
>>>>> 30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies.
>>>> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
>>>> Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of
>>>> it.
>>>> Go buy something else. Sheesh.
>>>>
>>> Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to it
>>> that I hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of school
>>> left. He has an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. We
>>> eventually want to get him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" right
>>> away. I think I can keep this tin can going with some bailing wire, duct
>>> tape and a few more parts here and there. If I had to pay for labor, it
>>> would definitely be out of the question.

>> that's dan's response to everything here - ignore him.
>>
>> re fixing the gasket, the parts are cheap, but it takes a while. use
>> gasket remover rather than abrasives to clean the head and block. if it's
>> flat, do not machine it. google this group for my highly biased opinions
>> on this subject.

>
>
> Thanks for the reply, Jim. I Googled your posts and found them very
> informative. I tore the front end of the engine apart last night. I'm now
> trying to figure out how to get the intake side off. Lots of fun. I snapped
> a bunch of pictures with the digital camera, just in case my memory fails
> me. I have a photographic memory ... it just runs out of film now and then.
> Question about coolant in oil : Will it always turn milky or can the
> coolant or water dilute it without showing a change, other than being
> thinner? This car has always been an oil leaker and my son adds some every
> day. He told me last night that he thinks that the level has actually risen
> on its own a few times. Now he tells me .. oh well.


that would be a classic leak symptom, but i've not seen a honda and it
would /definitely/ be accompanied by "mayonnaise" as the oil and water mix.


> I wonder if he may have added too much or at least more than he thought he
> was, by checking the dipstick before the oil had a chance to get down to the
> pan.


more likely.


> I'm wondering if the lower part of the engine has suffered damage from
> diluted oil. No milkiness. I'll post about the head condition when I get it
> off. Guess I'll put in a few more hours this evening.


you'll find out!

re: leaks, mechanical issues aside, the brand of oil you use matters.
my 89 civic used to run oil out of the main seal so it would literally
drip onto the exhaust and shroud you in smoke at traffic lights. that
was with cheapo ford brand oil. having bought all the seals, i decided
to flush my engine with some castrol, just because i had some laying
about the garage, for a couple of weeks before performing surgery. then
when i got down to business, no leaks! i cleaned it up, waited a couple
more weeks, still no leaks. bottom line, superior seal conditioners in
superior oil stopped it. i never did the seals and that's nearly 5
years and 75k miles ago. still doesn't leak.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01 Sep 2008, 10:54 pm
jim beam
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: Changing head gasket 89 Accord

Forrest wrote:
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:itydncBYzOSLniHVnZ2dnUVZ_gmdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> Forrest wrote:
>>> "Dan C" <youmustbejoking@lan.invalid> wrote in message
>>> newsan.2008.08.31.23.22.18.270781@moria2.lan...
>>>> On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:01:10 -0700, Forrest wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have an 89 Accord SEI that appears to have a blown head gasket. One
>>>>> of the
>>>>> symptoms is a constant stream of bubbles in the radiator overflow tank.
>>>>> I
>>>>> also noticed that the cooling system(cold) had pressure after cranking
>>>>> it
>>>>> with the coil wire disconnected. After filling and bleeding cooling
>>>>> system
>>>>> and letting idle, the gage will eventually go to hot, even though the
>>>>> fan is
>>>>> kicking in. I would then reloosen the bleed bolt in the thermostat
>>>>> housing
>>>>> and steam would come out. Do it all over again with the same result.
>>>>> Idle is
>>>>> smooth sometimes and rough others. New dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires,
>>>>> timing belt, injectors, thermostat, radiator and cap. I also just
>>>>> replaced
>>>>> the struts and CV axles. Anywhooo .... I'm going to tear it down myself
>>>>> and
>>>>> replace it. I was just wondering if anybody had any tips, tricks or
>>>>> advice
>>>>> for me to help make the job easier. Also, if the head looks OK, level
>>>>> across
>>>>> the surface etc, should I go through the expense and hassle of having a
>>>>> shop
>>>>> go over it? What is a good brand of gasket kit? The car is a beater
>>>>> with a
>>>>> lot of new parts. It has 220,000 miles on it. I know that the rings
>>>>> aren't
>>>>> that great and really don't want to get into that job. I did a
>>>>> compression
>>>>> test last year and the "wet test" raised the compression quite a bit. I
>>>>> plan
>>>>> on keeping it about another couple of years and maybe putting about
>>>>> another
>>>>> 30,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance for any replies.
>>>> Save yourself some aggravation, and get rid of that piece of shit now.
>>>> Why **** around with a 20 year old car, just to get another 30k out of
>>>> it.
>>>> Go buy something else. Sheesh.
>>>>
>>> Yeah, you're probably right. It's just that I have done so much to it
>>> that I hate to call it quits now. My son has two more years of school
>>> left. He has an 85 mile round trip drive 4 or 5 days a week. We
>>> eventually want to get him a decent car but hate to "Use it up" right
>>> away. I think I can keep this tin can going with some bailing wire, duct
>>> tape and a few more parts here and there. If I had to pay for labor, it
>>> would definitely be out of the question.

>> that's dan's response to everything here - ignore him.
>>
>> re fixing the gasket, the parts are cheap, but it takes a while. use
>> gasket remover rather than abrasives to clean the head and block. if it's
>> flat, do not machine it. google this group for my highly biased opinions
>> on this subject.

>
>
> Thanks for the reply, Jim. I Googled your posts and found them very
> informative. I tore the front end of the engine apart last night. I'm now
> trying to figure out how to get the intake side off.


forgot to say:

there's a bolt you need to do from underneath.... piece of cake if you
go under the car and look straight up.


> Lots of fun. I snapped
> a bunch of pictures with the digital camera, just in case my memory fails
> me. I have a photographic memory ... it just runs out of film now and then.
> Question about coolant in oil : Will it always turn milky or can the
> coolant or water dilute it without showing a change, other than being
> thinner? This car has always been an oil leaker and my son adds some every
> day. He told me last night that he thinks that the level has actually risen
> on its own a few times. Now he tells me .. oh well.
> I wonder if he may have added too much or at least more than he thought he
> was, by checking the dipstick before the oil had a chance to get down to the
> pan. I'm wondering if the lower part of the engine has suffered damage from
> diluted oil. No milkiness. I'll post about the head condition when I get it
> off. Guess I'll put in a few more hours this evening.
>
>

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