Honda Car Forum

I thought it was the starter so I changed it out. Battery is full. When
the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the relay in
the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the fuse panel. It's
almost like the power is never getting all the way to the starter. All
other aspects look good from what I've checked.

Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it quickly.

JACK wrote:

> I thought it was the starter so I changed it out. Battery is full. When
> the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the relay in
> the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the fuse panel. It's
> almost like the power is never getting all the way to the starter. All
> other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>
> Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it quickly.
>
>
Hi,
If you think that, then how about checking the battery cables to make
sure they are in good shape making an good connection.

Yeah I've checked that too. And BTW, I've also run the gear shifter
through all settings while trying the ignition just to see if it was that
switch. Nothing.

I just don't get it.

Thanks
Jack




"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:uwhGj.122457$pM4.85174@pd7urf1no...
> JACK wrote:
>
>> I thought it was the starter so I changed it out. Battery is full.
>> When the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the
>> relay in the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the fuse
>> panel. It's almost like the power is never getting all the way to the
>> starter. All other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>>
>> Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it
>> quickly.
> Hi,
> If you think that, then how about checking the battery cables to make sure
> they are in good shape making an good connection.

JACK wrote:

> Yeah I've checked that too. And BTW, I've also run the gear shifter
> through all settings while trying the ignition just to see if it was that
> switch. Nothing.
>
> I just don't get it.
>
> Thanks
> Jack
>
>
>
>
> "Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:uwhGj.122457$pM4.85174@pd7urf1no...
>
>>JACK wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I thought it was the starter so I changed it out. Battery is full.
>>>When the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the
>>>relay in the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the fuse
>>>panel. It's almost like the power is never getting all the way to the
>>>starter. All other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>>>
>>>Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it
>>>quickly.
>>
>>Hi,
>>If you think that, then how about checking the battery cables to make sure
>>they are in good shape making an good connection.
>
>
>
Hi,
When is the last time the car ran? Some starter has a solenoid. If
solenoid contact(s) is pitted or burnt bad it won'r turn over.
Relay enetrgizes solenoid which pass the high current juice to the
starter motor. Or if pinion gear from motor does not kick ot to engage
fly wheel....

"JACK" <totallc@mindspring.com> wrote in
news:13ujeduo94dl22b@corp.supernews.com:

> Yeah I've checked that too. And BTW, I've also run the gear shifter
> through all settings while trying the ignition just to see if it was
> that switch. Nothing.
>
> I just don't get it.
>
> Thanks
> Jack
>
>
>
>
> "Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:uwhGj.122457$pM4.85174@pd7urf1no...
>> JACK wrote:
>>
>>> I thought it was the starter so I changed it out. Battery is full.
>>> When the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out
>>> the relay in the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the
>>> fuse panel. It's almost like the power is never getting all the
>>> way to the starter. All other aspects look good from what I've
>>> checked.
>>>
>>> Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it
>>> quickly.
>> Hi,
>> If you think that, then how about checking the battery cables to make
>> sure they are in good shape making an good connection.
>
>
>

I guess you have to use a meter or test light to trace back from the
starter solenoid to see where you lose the 12v from the ignition switch.

It might be a worn ignition switch,or the main relay is bad.
(that can be resoldered,if you know how to solder)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"JACK" <totallc@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:13uj6foehhtkged@corp.supernews.com...
>I thought it was the starter so I changed it out. Battery is full. When
>the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the relay in
>the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the fuse panel. It's
>almost like the power is never getting all the way to the starter. All
>other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>
> Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it quickly.
How about a voltage drop test. Measure the voltage at the starter with the
key in the run posn. You should read 12v or close thereunto. Have a helper
crank the engine (or use a remote starter switch) and watch the voltage.
Should drop significantly, say to 3-4v (if I remember correctly). If the
voltage stays high, up around 8-9v or more, then you have some parasitic
resistance in the circuit. As Tony posted, then check the cable connections
at the battery, the connections at the other end, at the starter, that is,
and lastly check the condition of the cables themselves. A badly corroded
cable with only a few strands still conducting will cause slow cranking or
no cranking at all....

Dave D

On Mar 25, 8:53*pm, "Dave and Trudy" <dtdod...@acsalaska.net> wrote:
> "JACK" <tota...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
>
> news:13uj6foehhtkged@corp.supernews.com...>I thought it was the starter soI changed it out. *Battery is full. * When
> >the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the relay in
> >the engine compartment. * I've checked the fuse in the fuse panel. * It's
> >almost like the power is never getting all the way to the starter. * All
> >other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>
> > Any ideas? * Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it quickly.
>
> How about a voltage drop test. Measure the voltage at the starter with the
> key in the run posn. You should read 12v or close thereunto. Have a helper
> crank the engine (or use a remote starter switch) and watch the voltage.
> Should drop significantly, say to 3-4v (if I remember correctly). If the
> voltage stays high, up around 8-9v or more, then you have some parasitic
> resistance in the circuit. As Tony posted, then check the cable connections
> at the battery, the connections at the other end, at the starter, that is,
> and lastly check the condition of the cables themselves. A badly corroded
> cable with only a few strands still conducting will cause slow cranking or
> no cranking at all....
>
> Dave D

new battery next

Ok, its fixed. It had two problems. The starter was indeed bad. I
changed it out with a new one and checked the old > dead. The second
problem was the after market alarm system. Somehow it got fried and was
interrupting the start circuit. I'm guessing that there was some sort of an
electrical surge in the system that caused both problems. All that
matters, it that its back on the road again.

Thanks to everyone for your ideas. They were each very much appreciated.

Jack


"w" <wp51dos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:756e60ac-a8e1-48bd-8ddf-458a29fc077e@d21g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 25, 8:53 pm, "Dave and Trudy" <dtdod...@acsalaska.net> wrote:
> "JACK" <tota...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
>
> news:13uj6foehhtkged@corp.supernews.com...>I thought it was the starter so
> I changed it out. Battery is full. When
> >the key is turned, The inside relay clicks, I've changed out the relay in
> >the engine compartment. I've checked the fuse in the fuse panel. It's
> >almost like the power is never getting all the way to the starter. All
> >other aspects look good from what I've checked.
>
> > Any ideas? Please help, really can't afford a shop, but need it quickly.
>
> How about a voltage drop test. Measure the voltage at the starter with the
> key in the run posn. You should read 12v or close thereunto. Have a helper
> crank the engine (or use a remote starter switch) and watch the voltage.
> Should drop significantly, say to 3-4v (if I remember correctly). If the
> voltage stays high, up around 8-9v or more, then you have some parasitic
> resistance in the circuit. As Tony posted, then check the cable
> connections
> at the battery, the connections at the other end, at the starter, that is,
> and lastly check the condition of the cables themselves. A badly corroded
> cable with only a few strands still conducting will cause slow cranking or
> no cranking at all....
>
> Dave D

new battery next