Honda Car Forum

Hello,

I've got a Honda Civic VTi from 94 and am trying to install
a radio/cd player.

The Swithced 12V works perfectly, but the 12V (continu)
only has 0.5V standard or 4.5V when I turn the key to
ignition..

Everything worked perfectly until I hooked up my amplifier
and turned up the volume. After that, the 12V (continue)
dropped..

Can anyone tell me what the most likely cause of this problem
is?
Also, where do I need to look to correct this?

run a direct wire to the battery, then you have your continous 12v



"Gerard" <g@wdf.asd> wrote in message
newsp28gvs9536mb86utqoqbpcpk6g1h14t4d@4ax.com...
> Hello,
>
> I've got a Honda Civic VTi from 94 and am trying to install
> a radio/cd player.
>
> The Swithced 12V works perfectly, but the 12V (continu)
> only has 0.5V standard or 4.5V when I turn the key to
> ignition..
>
> Everything worked perfectly until I hooked up my amplifier
> and turned up the volume. After that, the 12V (continue)
> dropped..
>
> Can anyone tell me what the most likely cause of this problem
> is?
> Also, where do I need to look to correct this?


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You could run a thick-gauge power wire directly from the + terminal of
the battery to your radio. Put an in-line fuse-holder in it of course
and use a fuse properly rated amp-wise for your radio (or whatever
else you want to connect). Connect the ground wire for the radio to a
good chassis/body screw nearby. Of course, power is "always on" in
this wire but when you turn the radio off there shouldn't be any
battery drain.

That way you bypass whatever else is going on and you get all the
power you need, especially for amps.

Years ago, I did the same thing on my '73 Datsun (still running)
except more elaborately: I ran said fused power wire to a second fuse
block (I made myself) which made it much more convenient for
connecting more devices later on to a power source...no hunting for a
connection each time I added something, just go to the fuse block.
And, each device can be fused separately and correctly right there at
its point of connection to power. My two power amps (front and rear
speaker amps) are connected to this block.

You can also make a ground "bus" connector so you have just one (the
same) grounding point for all your devices, too.

Good luck.

John D.



Gerard <g@wdf.asd> wrote in message news:<op28gvs9536mb86utqoqbpcpk6g1h14t4d@4ax.com>. ..
> Hello,
>
> I've got a Honda Civic VTi from 94 and am trying to install
> a radio/cd player.
>
> The Swithced 12V works perfectly, but the 12V (continu)
> only has 0.5V standard or 4.5V when I turn the key to
> ignition..
>
> Everything worked perfectly until I hooked up my amplifier
> and turned up the volume. After that, the 12V (continue)
> dropped..
>
> Can anyone tell me what the most likely cause of this problem
> is?
> Also, where do I need to look to correct this?

Someplace in that circuit is a resistor. Feel like looking for a wiring
diagram ? bob

Gerard wrote:
>
> Ok, that's clear..
>
> What I would also like to know is how to fix the 12V (continu)
> as all it does now is output 4.5V..
>
> Any ideas?

oops, forgot to mention that, yes, always put in a fuse


"N.E.Ohio Bob" <rgstroud@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3F045034.E7F51116@neo.rr.com...
> Be very carefull to put a fuse in the line as close to the battery as
> you can if you decide to do this. A short would make a very hot wire
> very quickly. bob
>
> "M.C. Tee" wrote:
> >
> > run a direct wire to the battery, then you have your continous 12v
> >


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1. You're welcome.

2. Don't know. Wouldn't do it that way.

Good luck,

John D.



Gerard <g@wdf.asd> wrote in message news:<mv19gv4qfkq9auqubpf6o5s8k7l25afgdk@4ax.com>. ..
> Ok, that's clear..
>
> What I would also like to know is how to fix the 12V (continu)
> as all it does now is output 4.5V..
>
> Any ideas?