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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01 Oct 2012, 10:35 pm
cameo
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Default Those darn rusted screws!

A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
the concensus was as to the product?
In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
that out there?
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 02:17 am
Erik
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Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

In article <k4dn85$5ph$1@dont-email.me>, cameo <cameo@unreal.invalid>
wrote:

> A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
> dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
> the concensus was as to the product?
> In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
> I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
> They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
> on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
> recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
> not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
> that out there?


Yes, there is better stuff... 'Kroil' is probably the best, but hard to
find, and expensive.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

Probably it's only real advantage over PB Blaster is that it works a bit faster.

Your PB Blaster is a great product. Keep the bolts wet with it for a
few days, and I bet they come loose. If push comes to shove, you may
have to drill them out, or bust them off; as with Vise Grip's or the
like. Heating with the torch may also help if no plastic is in the area.

Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
that will always be easy to take apart. If you put them back on with
steel/metal bolts, put some antiseize compound on the threads. (A thin
coat of grease on the threads would probably be fine for this
application.)

Erik
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 07:06 am
Al Moodie
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Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 00:17:07 -0700, Erik <spam@this.com> wrote:

>
>Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
>that will always be easy to take apart.


Auto stores also sell stainless steel bolts for license plates. Have
used them for years and can recommend them

It always amazes me when I am following some $50,000 and up quality
car and you see rusted bolts in plates with rust stains streaming down
the plates.

Al.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 07:14 am
tww1491
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Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

The best I have found is PB Blaster manufactured by B'Laster Corp in
Cleveland OH. You can find it at OReillys.

"cameo" wrote in message news:k4dn85$5ph$1@dont-email.me...

A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
the concensus was as to the product?
In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
that out there?

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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 07:36 am
Tegger
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Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

cameo <cameo@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:k4dn85$5ph$1@dont-email.me:

> A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
> dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
> the concensus was as to the product?
> In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
> I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
> They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
> on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
> recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
> not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
> that out there?



Do you have access to the rear of the screws?

If so, and if there's no plastic too close by, then heat is your answer.
Heat in the form of a propane torch.


--
Tegger
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 08:41 am
Douglas C. Neidermeyer
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Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

On 10/2/12 8:06 AM, Al Moodie wrote:
> On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 00:17:07 -0700, Erik <spam@this.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
>> that will always be easy to take apart.

>
> Auto stores also sell stainless steel bolts for license plates. Have
> used them for years and can recommend them
>
> It always amazes me when I am following some $50,000 and up quality
> car and you see rusted bolts in plates with rust stains streaming down
> the plates.
>
> Al.
>


My car tag is moounted with a nylon/plastic nut and bolt. I'd think
they're readily available in auto or hardware stores

--
You can observe a lot just by watching.
---Yogi Berra
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 06:45 pm
cameo
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

You ought to have read my whole post where I mentioned PB blaster.

On 10/2/2012 5:14 AM, tww1491 wrote:
> The best I have found is PB Blaster manufactured by B'Laster Corp in
> Cleveland OH. You can find it at OReillys.
>
> "cameo" wrote in message news:k4dn85$5ph$1@dont-email.me...
>
> A while back there was a thread here about the best penetrating rust
> dissolvers but I can't find it anymore. Could somebody remind me what
> the concensus was as to the product?
> In my state we have to install new plates periodically and this time
> I cannot unscrew the bottom two screws holding the front license plate.
> They are so rusted in the thread that I am afraid I might ruin the slot
> on the head of the screws with my flat screwdriver. I tried a product
> recommended at a local auto part store, called PB Blaster, but that did
> not help after a couple hours of soaking. Is there something better than
> that out there?


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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 07:00 pm
cameo
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

On 10/2/2012 5:36 AM, Tegger wrote:
> Do you have access to the rear of the screws?
>
> If so, and if there's no plastic too close by, then heat is your answer.
> Heat in the form of a propane torch.


Well, I've figured out how to remove the plate with its holder frame
from the front bumper and I left the screws soaked thoroughly overnight,
but the screws were still impossible to unscrew this morning. Because I
needed to have the new plates on already, I decided to cut off the
screws from the back of the license plate with one of those oscillating
multi-function power tools which left only about two threads left in the
holding clip. After that I was able to unscrew the remaining part of the
screw.

Since those clips are attached to the plastic plate frame, heating it
would have been out of question. And if we are talking about plastic, I
wanted to steer away from those plastic license plate screws because
they make it easier for potential plate tiefs to steal. So perhaps I'll
look instead for galvanized or stainless steel screws. What do you think
about that?

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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 07:06 pm
cameo
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

On 10/2/2012 12:17 AM, Erik wrote:

> Yes, there is better stuff... 'Kroil' is probably the best, but hard to
> find, and expensive.
>
> http://www.kanolabs.com/
>
> Probably it's only real advantage over PB Blaster is that it works a bit faster.


Thanks for that tip, Erik. Is it as stinky as the PB Blaster? Even
though I worked with it in the attached garage, its smell penetrated my
whole house. Might take a few days to vent it all out. That includes my
clothing. :-(

> Your PB Blaster is a great product. Keep the bolts wet with it for a
> few days, and I bet they come loose. If push comes to shove, you may
> have to drill them out, or bust them off; as with Vise Grip's or the
> like. Heating with the torch may also help if no plastic is in the area.
>
> Auto parts stores carry nylon bolts & nuts just for license plate use
> that will always be easy to take apart. If you put them back on with
> steel/metal bolts, put some antiseize compound on the threads. (A thin
> coat of grease on the threads would probably be fine for this
> application.)


See my other reply to tegger about this.

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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02 Oct 2012, 07:56 pm
jim beam
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: Those darn rusted screws!

On 10/02/2012 05:00 PM, cameo wrote:
> On 10/2/2012 5:36 AM, Tegger wrote:
>> Do you have access to the rear of the screws?
>>
>> If so, and if there's no plastic too close by, then heat is your answer.
>> Heat in the form of a propane torch.

>
> Well, I've figured out how to remove the plate with its holder frame
> from the front bumper and I left the screws soaked thoroughly overnight,
> but the screws were still impossible to unscrew this morning. Because I
> needed to have the new plates on already, I decided to cut off the
> screws from the back of the license plate with one of those oscillating
> multi-function power tools which left only about two threads left in the
> holding clip. After that I was able to unscrew the remaining part of the
> screw.
>
> Since those clips are attached to the plastic plate frame, heating it
> would have been out of question. And if we are talking about plastic, I
> wanted to steer away from those plastic license plate screws because
> they make it easier for potential plate tiefs to steal. So perhaps I'll
> look instead for galvanized or stainless steel screws. What do you think
> about that?
>


completely pointless. if they want to steal your plates, rust-free
stainless or anything else is just as easy to remove as rust-free
plastic. you may as well use what's cheap and guaranteed not to cause
problems down the road, and plastic does that job just fine.

and in your case, because you've now used that "blaster" stuff, you
/will/ have an accelerated corrosion problem. the chemicals that eat
through the rust continue working after you're done and seed a whole new
wave of much more aggressive corrosion afterwards. plastic might help
you avoid the worst effects if you need to replace the plates again.


--
fact check required
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