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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 13 Aug 2012, 12:57 pm
Doug
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Default touch up paint

I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
headlight pic
http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 13 Aug 2012, 06:04 pm
cameo
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Default Re: touch up paint

On 8/13/2012 10:57 AM, Doug wrote:
> I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
> headlight pic
> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
> so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
> to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
> years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
> about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.
>

I think you posted the wrong pics. Not a car in sight there.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 13 Aug 2012, 10:19 pm
Doug
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Default Re: touch up paint

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 16:04:33 -0700, cameo <cameo@unreal.invalid>
wrote:

>On 8/13/2012 10:57 AM, Doug wrote:
>> I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
>> headlight pic
>> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
>> so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
>> to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
>> years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
>> about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.
>>

>I think you posted the wrong pics. Not a car in sight there.



You didn't see the first pic which is the headlight? It should be
there but the question still remains the same with or without the pic.
As a follow up, can I use some of the rust convertor type paints that
turn the rust to black followed by a white spray laquer to try to make
the spot match the car color?
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 13 Aug 2012, 11:41 pm
cameo
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: touch up paint

On 8/13/2012 8:19 PM, Doug wrote:
>> I think you posted the wrong pics. Not a car in sight there.

>
>
> You didn't see the first pic which is the headlight? It should be
> there but the question still remains the same with or without the pic.
> As a follow up, can I use some of the rust convertor type paints that
> turn the rust to black followed by a white spray laquer to try to make
> the spot match the car color?


Oh, yes, now I saw it. It got lost among the other pics. Unfortunately
though, I can't help you there.

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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 13 Aug 2012, 11:51 pm
jim beam
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: touch up paint

On 08/13/2012 08:19 PM, Doug wrote:
> On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 16:04:33 -0700, cameo<cameo@unreal.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> On 8/13/2012 10:57 AM, Doug wrote:
>>> I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
>>> headlight pic
>>> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
>>> so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
>>> to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
>>> years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
>>> about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.
>>>

>> I think you posted the wrong pics. Not a car in sight there.

>
>
> You didn't see the first pic which is the headlight? It should be
> there but the question still remains the same with or without the pic.
> As a follow up, can I use some of the rust convertor type paints that
> turn the rust to black followed by a white spray laquer to try to make
> the spot match the car color?


just go straight for the rustoleum. wire brush the loose flaky paint
and rust, then generously rustoleum. you need to leave it for about 6
weeks before contemplating any additional paint after you've done it -
not because it needs to dry, but because it needs to do its conversion
thing.


--
fact check required
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 14 Aug 2012, 01:46 am
Tegger
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Default Re: touch up paint

"Doug" <noemailaddress@msn.com> wrote in
news:klfi289ra13h983irvs3rsros7q3m8sn7g@4ax.com:

> I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
> headlight pic
> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
> so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
> to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
> years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
> about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.




Rustoleum is useless against rust, so forget that. It's unfortunate that
this was left until rust formed. Unless you remove ALL the rust before
painting, it will bubble up eventually.

Converters only work if ALL the rust is converted from red Fe2O3 to black
Fe3O4. If ANY red stuff is left underneath the black (a near-certainty),
the rust WILL come back, worse than ever. You will need to remove the
headlight so you can get at the bare steel and rust that's under the fender
lip. You will need to sand back the rough edges of the wound to gain access
to the rust that's formed under the broken edges of the paint. All this
means dramatically increasing the area of bare steel that you'd need to
prime and paint.

Before painting, you need to use ZINC primer over the bare steel, and
enough coats of paint that oxygen is completely excluded from the metal.
That's not easy at all, especially with rattle-can paints. Zinc primer is
usually a silvery gray these days. It's getting hard to find the yellow
stuff, which is better quality.

Possibly a more practical thing you can try is POR-15, a black epoxy whose
claim to fame is oxygen-exclusion. The idea is that any oxygen remaining
under the epoxy will bind with the steel, causing a little more rust, but
there the corrosion will stop for lack of additional free-oxygen. POR-15 is
painted directly over top of the bare steel and rust, and it's paintable
with any color coat. You'll still need to remove the headlight to do this
job properly.

Any way you tackle this, it will be an ugly repair. If it were me, and I
intended to keep the car, I'd let a professional bodyshop fix this. It
would cost roughly $1,000, assuming no bent metal to straighten.

--
Tegger
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 14 Aug 2012, 06:56 am
Doug
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: touch up paint

On Tue, 14 Aug 2012 06:46:02 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@example.com>
wrote:

>"Doug" <noemailaddress@msn.com> wrote in
>news:klfi289ra13h983irvs3rsros7q3m8sn7g@4ax.com :
>
>> I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
>> headlight pic
>> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
>> so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
>> to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
>> years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
>> about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.

>
>
>
>Rustoleum is useless against rust, so forget that. It's unfortunate that
>this was left until rust formed. Unless you remove ALL the rust before
>painting, it will bubble up eventually.
>
>Converters only work if ALL the rust is converted from red Fe2O3 to black
>Fe3O4. If ANY red stuff is left underneath the black (a near-certainty),
>the rust WILL come back, worse than ever. You will need to remove the
>headlight so you can get at the bare steel and rust that's under the fender
>lip. You will need to sand back the rough edges of the wound to gain access
>to the rust that's formed under the broken edges of the paint. All this
>means dramatically increasing the area of bare steel that you'd need to
>prime and paint.
>
>Before painting, you need to use ZINC primer over the bare steel, and
>enough coats of paint that oxygen is completely excluded from the metal.
>That's not easy at all, especially with rattle-can paints. Zinc primer is
>usually a silvery gray these days. It's getting hard to find the yellow
>stuff, which is better quality.
>
>Possibly a more practical thing you can try is POR-15, a black epoxy whose
>claim to fame is oxygen-exclusion. The idea is that any oxygen remaining
>under the epoxy will bind with the steel, causing a little more rust, but
>there the corrosion will stop for lack of additional free-oxygen. POR-15 is
>painted directly over top of the bare steel and rust, and it's paintable
>with any color coat. You'll still need to remove the headlight to do this
>job properly.
>
>Any way you tackle this, it will be an ugly repair. If it were me, and I
>intended to keep the car, I'd let a professional bodyshop fix this. It
>would cost roughly $1,000, assuming no bent metal to straighten.



A lot to swallow but I appreciate the information. I have to decide
first how long I want to keep her first then apply the appropriate fix
. Thank you.
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 14 Aug 2012, 06:58 am
Doug
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: touch up paint

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 21:41:36 -0700, cameo <cameo@unreal.invalid>
wrote:

>On 8/13/2012 8:19 PM, Doug wrote:
>>> I think you posted the wrong pics. Not a car in sight there.

>>
>>
>> You didn't see the first pic which is the headlight? It should be
>> there but the question still remains the same with or without the pic.
>> As a follow up, can I use some of the rust convertor type paints that
>> turn the rust to black followed by a white spray laquer to try to make
>> the spot match the car color?

>
>Oh, yes, now I saw it. It got lost among the other pics. Unfortunately
>though, I can't help you there.


After all that, you can't help me <grin> ? Ok, no big deal. At
least you confirmed the headlight pic is there. Regards.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 14 Aug 2012, 07:01 am
Doug
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: touch up paint

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 21:51:24 -0700, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:

>On 08/13/2012 08:19 PM, Doug wrote:
>> On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 16:04:33 -0700, cameo<cameo@unreal.invalid>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 8/13/2012 10:57 AM, Doug wrote:
>>>> I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
>>>> headlight pic
>>>> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
>>>> so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
>>>> to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
>>>> years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
>>>> about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.
>>>>
>>> I think you posted the wrong pics. Not a car in sight there.

>>
>>
>> You didn't see the first pic which is the headlight? It should be
>> there but the question still remains the same with or without the pic.
>> As a follow up, can I use some of the rust convertor type paints that
>> turn the rust to black followed by a white spray laquer to try to make
>> the spot match the car color?

>
>just go straight for the rustoleum. wire brush the loose flaky paint
>and rust, then generously rustoleum. you need to leave it for about 6
>weeks before contemplating any additional paint after you've done it -
>not because it needs to dry, but because it needs to do its conversion
>thing.



Appreciate the info. I like your way for ease of application and if
I don't keep the car that long, this will be the way I go but if I
keep it longer, I may use Tegger's way or somewhere in between.
Thanks again.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 14 Aug 2012, 09:18 am
jim beam
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: touch up paint

On 08/13/2012 11:46 PM, Tegger wrote:
> "Doug"<noemailaddress@msn.com> wrote in
> news:klfi289ra13h983irvs3rsros7q3m8sn7g@4ax.com:
>
>> I think this shows some primer, light rust and bare metal in the
>> headlight pic
>> http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/q...ublic/?start=0
>> so I was wondering if I can use something like white enamal rustoleum
>> to touch up and later use some custom laquer spray paint I bought
>> years ago to match paint color (white) on car. I more concerned
>> about rust then the perfect color match at least at this time.

>
>
>
> Rustoleum is useless against rust,


??? tegger, with respect, you're completely wrong on that. you need to
wire bush loose flaky material, and loose paint, but other than that,
rustoleum works great and with a good deal less effort than traditional
methods. if [perhaps] you mean that it doesn't protect against
perforation, then you'd be correct - but only if you'd painted one side
and let it rust through from the other.


> so forget that. It's unfortunate that
> this was left until rust formed. Unless you remove ALL the rust before
> painting, it will bubble up eventually.
>
> Converters only work if ALL the rust is converted from red Fe2O3 to black
> Fe3O4. If ANY red stuff is left underneath the black (a near-certainty),
> the rust WILL come back, worse than ever.


if red has been converted to black, then how does red figure into it???


> You will need to remove the
> headlight so you can get at the bare steel and rust that's under the fender
> lip. You will need to sand back the rough edges of the wound to gain access
> to the rust that's formed under the broken edges of the paint. All this
> means dramatically increasing the area of bare steel that you'd need to
> prime and paint.
>
> Before painting, you need to use ZINC primer over the bare steel, and
> enough coats of paint that oxygen is completely excluded from the metal.
> That's not easy at all, especially with rattle-can paints. Zinc primer is
> usually a silvery gray these days. It's getting hard to find the yellow
> stuff, which is better quality.
>
> Possibly a more practical thing you can try is POR-15, a black epoxy whose
> claim to fame is oxygen-exclusion. The idea is that any oxygen remaining
> under the epoxy will bind with the steel, causing a little more rust, but
> there the corrosion will stop for lack of additional free-oxygen. POR-15 is
> painted directly over top of the bare steel and rust, and it's paintable
> with any color coat. You'll still need to remove the headlight to do this
> job properly.


back when /i/ lived in the rust belt, i had an old p.o.s. rust bucket
and did an experiment. one side of the vehicle i wire brushed,
rustoleumed, and left alone. the other side, i cleaned, primered, and
"protected" in the traditional way you describe.

two years later, one side was completely rusted out, the other was
pretty much as i'd left it. it was the rustoleum side that survived.

bottom line, you're pissing in the knowledge pool. if the guy wants to
protect the vehicle for another few years for minimum outlay of time and
money, there is a very good effective and practical solution that you're
dismissing out of hand, and that's wrong.


>
> Any way you tackle this, it will be an ugly repair. If it were me, and I
> intended to keep the car, I'd let a professional bodyshop fix this. It
> would cost roughly $1,000, assuming no bent metal to straighten.


yeah, and i've seen people spend thousands at bodyshops too - only to
have the thing rust through again in a couple of years - the old metal
they'd not replaced continued to rust. unless you go to extremes, like
full strip, acid bathe and full immersion dipping, you're just playing
whack-a-mole. much better to do it cheaply and with minimum effort,
especially if using something halfway effective to help you.


--
fact check required
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