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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 14 May 2012, 05:48 pm
cameo
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Default Screeching windows

I've tried several different libricant sprays in the window channels
(tracks) to prevent the ear-splitting screeching when they are lowered
or raised by the servo, but most don't cure the problem for more than a
day or two. Does anybody know something better?
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Old 14 May 2012, 09:53 pm
Tegger
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Default Re: Screeching windows

cameo <cameo@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:jos216$668$1@dont-email.me:

> I've tried several different libricant sprays in the window channels
> (tracks) to prevent the ear-splitting screeching when they are lowered
> or raised by the servo, but most don't cure the problem for more than a
> day or two. Does anybody know something better?




The ONLY lubricant you should be using is silicone spray. And you need to
make sure you get the spray right down inside the run-channel inside the
door, both front and rear.

If you've been using petroleum-based sprays, you've probably damamged the
run-channel rubber.


--
Tegger
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Old 15 May 2012, 12:25 am
cameo
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Default Re: Screeching windows

On 5/14/2012 7:53 PM, Tegger wrote:
>
> The ONLY lubricant you should be using is silicone spray. And you need to
> make sure you get the spray right down inside the run-channel inside the
> door, both front and rear.
>
> If you've been using petroleum-based sprays, you've probably damamged the
> run-channel rubber.


No, no, I only used silicone based sprays, both with and without
graphite in it, just as you suggest, but the effect is pretty
short-lived. I was wondering if there was something new out there that's
better.

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Old 15 May 2012, 09:08 am
jim beam
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Default Re: Screeching windows

On 05/14/2012 10:25 PM, cameo wrote:
> On 5/14/2012 7:53 PM, Tegger wrote:
>>
>> The ONLY lubricant you should be using is silicone spray. And you need to
>> make sure you get the spray right down inside the run-channel inside the
>> door, both front and rear.
>>
>> If you've been using petroleum-based sprays, you've probably damamged the
>> run-channel rubber.

>
> No, no, I only used silicone based sprays, both with and without
> graphite in it, just as you suggest, but the effect is pretty
> short-lived. I was wondering if there was something new out there that's
> better.
>


did the window ever break and was it replaced? if so, there's probably
still broken glass fragments in the channel somewhere. if not, then
look at the winder mechanism.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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Old 15 May 2012, 12:21 pm
cameo
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Default Re: Screeching windows

On 5/15/2012 7:08 AM, jim beam wrote:
> did the window ever break and was it replaced? if so, there's probably
> still broken glass fragments in the channel somewhere. if not, then look
> at the winder mechanism.


No, the windows were never broken. What is interesting though that the
passenger side window tends to screech more than the driver side, even
though that one is rolled down less often. But then, the right rear
window is rolled even less, yet that is quiet. But that could also be
because it cannot be rolled down as far as the front window.
Maybe I'll just search for some newer silicone based sprays that work
longer.


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Old 15 May 2012, 03:16 pm
Tegger
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Default Re: Screeching windows

cameo <cameo@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:josp8b$pi4$1@dont-email.me:

> On 5/14/2012 7:53 PM, Tegger wrote:
>>
>> The ONLY lubricant you should be using is silicone spray. And you
>> need to make sure you get the spray right down inside the run-channel
>> inside the door, both front and rear.
>>
>> If you've been using petroleum-based sprays, you've probably damamged
>> the run-channel rubber.

>
> No, no, I only used silicone based sprays, both with and without
> graphite in it, just as you suggest, but the effect is pretty
> short-lived. I was wondering if there was something new out there
> that's better.
>



How much are you spraying in there? I've found you really need to load it
on all around, to the point where it's running out and makes a mess on the
windows and you need to wipe it off. Especially you need to make sure the
parts inside the door are soaking wet with the silicone.

Give it a good soaking and see if that helps.

--
Tegger
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Old 16 May 2012, 02:41 am
cameo
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Default Re: Screeching windows

On 5/15/2012 1:16 PM, Tegger wrote:
> How much are you spraying in there? I've found you really need to load it
> on all around, to the point where it's running out and makes a mess on the
> windows and you need to wipe it off. Especially you need to make sure the
> parts inside the door are soaking wet with the silicone.
>
> Give it a good soaking and see if that helps.



Well, I'm going to give it another try though I have to be careful not
to drop the thin plastic spray straw (tub) into the run channel because
it cannot be inserted firmly enough into the spray head. If this will
not work I would like to try to use some kind of grease. I wonder if
lithium paste would be good for that.

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Old 16 May 2012, 08:24 am
Tegger
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Default Re: Screeching windows

cameo <cameo@unreal.invalid> wrote in news:jovljb$irq$1@dont-email.me:

> On 5/15/2012 1:16 PM, Tegger wrote:
>> How much are you spraying in there? I've found you really need to
>> load it on all around, to the point where it's running out and makes
>> a mess on the windows and you need to wipe it off. Especially you
>> need to make sure the parts inside the door are soaking wet with the
>> silicone.
>>
>> Give it a good soaking and see if that helps.

>
>
> Well, I'm going to give it another try though I have to be careful not
> to drop the thin plastic spray straw (tub) into the run channel
> because it cannot be inserted firmly enough into the spray head. If
> this will not work I would like to try to use some kind of grease. I
> wonder if lithium paste would be good for that.
>
>



No lithium grease! Only silicone spray. Lithium will damage the rubber the
channels are made of.

What you need is a really runny, slippery liquid combined with the force of
an aerosol. That's silicone spray.

If the tube won't stay put (a distressingly common problem), hold the tube
with one hand while pushing the nozzle with the other.

If you're really stuck, get a garage to do it for you. It only takes a few
minutes.

--
Tegger
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 16 May 2012, 08:29 am
jim beam
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Default Re: Screeching windows

On 05/16/2012 12:41 AM, cameo wrote:
> On 5/15/2012 1:16 PM, Tegger wrote:
>> How much are you spraying in there? I've found you really need to load it
>> on all around, to the point where it's running out and makes a mess on
>> the
>> windows and you need to wipe it off. Especially you need to make sure the
>> parts inside the door are soaking wet with the silicone.
>>
>> Give it a good soaking and see if that helps.

>
>
> Well, I'm going to give it another try though I have to be careful not
> to drop the thin plastic spray straw (tub) into the run channel because
> it cannot be inserted firmly enough into the spray head. If this will
> not work I would like to try to use some kind of grease. I wonder if
> lithium paste would be good for that.
>


a lot of the so-called "silicone" spray lubes are just a very small
percentage - the rest is ordinary petroleum distillate, and that's not
good for rubber. same for greases. if you want the real deal, you've
gotta pay. dow "33" is the real deal in the grease dept. and honda
have a special "door rubber" grease, also very expensive.

but before you monkey about with lotions and potions, figure out where
the noise is really coming from. the window level mechanism is full of
levers, rollers, cables and hinges, all of which can squeak if not
originally lubricated sufficiently.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 16 May 2012, 08:53 am
Al
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Default Re: Screeching windows

On 5/16/2012 9:29 AM, jim beam wrote:

>
> but before you monkey about with lotions and potions, figure out where
> the noise is really coming from. the window level mechanism is full of
> levers, rollers, cables and hinges, all of which can squeak if not
> originally lubricated sufficiently.
>
>

Which is why it might make sense to pop off the door panel and inspect,
clean, and lube from the bottom up instead of the top down. Access is
lousy, but with flashlights, mirrors and an assortment of long handled
brushes you should be able to fix it. If you are careful you will only
have minor lacerations on your hands and a twisted back.
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