Honda Car Forum

Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have the
serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old Volvo
pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the adjustment
mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and locknut. So,
any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned mechanic? I have
the Chilton manual.

mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have the
> serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old Volvo
> pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the adjustment
> mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and locknut. So,
> any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned mechanic? I have
> the Chilton manual.

---------------------------------------

For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a screwdriver
built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar, depending on the size
of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't used it yet.

'Curly'

motsco_ wrote:
> mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>
>> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>> the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
>> Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the
>> adjustment mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and
>> locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
>> mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
>
>
> ---------------------------------------
>
> For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
> combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
> nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a screwdriver
> built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar, depending on the size
> of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't used it yet.
>
> 'Curly'


I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?

"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
news:7uBgi.5806$bj5.2829@trndny07:

> motsco_ wrote:
>> mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>>
>>> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>>> the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
>>> Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the
>>> adjustment mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and
>>> locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
>>> mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------------
>>
>> For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
>> combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
>> nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a
>> screwdriver built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar,
>> depending on the size of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't
>> used it yet.
>>
>> 'Curly'
>
>
> I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
>



It *most certainly* is.

I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade
screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.

The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check are
pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere
near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.

Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need to go
the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn
clockwise more than a degree or two.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger wrote:
> "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
> news:7uBgi.5806$bj5.2829@trndny07:
>
>
>>motsco_ wrote:
>>
>>>mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>>>>the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
>>>>Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the
>>>>adjustment mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and
>>>>locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
>>>>mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
>>>
>>>
>>>---------------------------------------
>>>
>>>For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
>>>combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
>>>nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a
>>>screwdriver built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar,
>>>depending on the size of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't
>>>used it yet.
>>>
>>>'Curly'
>>
>>
>> I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
>>
>
>
>
>
> It *most certainly* is.
>
> I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade
> screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.
>
> The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check are
> pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere
> near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.
>
> Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need to go
> the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn
> clockwise more than a degree or two.
>

I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was hoping
to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
applicable to my '95 EX?

mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
.. . . .I was hoping
> to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
> approach?

-------------------------------------

Yes, you'll run out of room on your driveway before you get your valves
all adjusted :-)

Once you slip out the spark plugs the engine turns over easily with the
Power Steering nut. (depending on the model)

Engine should be STONE COLD too, at least on the GEn 1 CR-V it's true.

'Curly'

"mjc13" wrote:
>
> Tegger wrote:
> > "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
> > news:7uBgi.5806$bj5.2829@trndny07:
> >
> >
> >>motsco_ wrote:
> >>
> >>>mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
> >>>>the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
> >>>>Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the
> >>>>adjustment mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and
> >>>>locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
> >>>>mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>---------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>>For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
> >>>combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
> >>>nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a
> >>>screwdriver built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar,
> >>>depending on the size of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't
> >>>used it yet.
> >>>
> >>>'Curly'
> >>
> >>
> >> I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > It *most certainly* is.
> >
> > I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade
> > screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.
> >
> > The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check are
> > pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere
> > near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.
> >
> > Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need to go
> > the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn
> > clockwise more than a degree or two.
> >
>
> I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was hoping
> to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
> approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
> applicable to my '95 EX?

There is no need for a torque wrench. In addition, you may want to take a
look at one of my prior posts where I discuss the general technique for
adjusting valves. http://tinyurl.com/2bf5qf

Eric

Eric wrote:
> "mjc13" wrote:
>
>>Tegger wrote:
>>
>>>"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
>>>news:7uBgi.5806$bj5.2829@trndny07:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>motsco_ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>>>>>>the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
>>>>>>Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the
>>>>>>adjustment mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and
>>>>>>locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
>>>>>>mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>---------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>>For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
>>>>>combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
>>>>>nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a
>>>>>screwdriver built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar,
>>>>>depending on the size of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't
>>>>>used it yet.
>>>>>
>>>>>'Curly'
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>It *most certainly* is.
>>>
>>>I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade
>>>screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.
>>>
>>>The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check are
>>>pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere
>>>near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.
>>>
>>>Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need to go
>>>the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn
>>>clockwise more than a degree or two.
>>>
>>
>> I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was hoping
>>to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
>>approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
>>applicable to my '95 EX?
>
>
> There is no need for a torque wrench. In addition, you may want to take a
> look at one of my prior posts where I discuss the general technique for
> adjusting valves. http://tinyurl.com/2bf5qf
>
> Eric


There may not be a need for a torque wrench if you either have done
the job before or instinctively know what 14 lb/ft feels like, but I'd
prefer not to risk those aluminum rocker arms.

mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
> Eric wrote:
>> "mjc13" wrote:
>>
>>> Tegger wrote:
>>>
>>>> "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
>>>> news:7uBgi.5806$bj5.2829@trndny07:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> motsco_ wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>>>>>>> the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
>>>>>>> Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the
>>>>>>> adjustment mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and
>>>>>>> locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
>>>>>>> mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ---------------------------------------
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
>>>>>> combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
>>>>>> nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a
>>>>>> screwdriver built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar,
>>>>>> depending on the size of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't
>>>>>> used it yet.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 'Curly'
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It *most certainly* is.
>>>>
>>>> I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade
>>>> screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.
>>>>
>>>> The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check are
>>>> pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere
>>>> near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.
>>>>
>>>> Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need to go
>>>> the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn
>>>> clockwise more than a degree or two.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was hoping
>>> to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
>>> approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
>>> applicable to my '95 EX?
>>
>>
>> There is no need for a torque wrench. In addition, you may want to
>> take a
>> look at one of my prior posts where I discuss the general technique for
>> adjusting valves. http://tinyurl.com/2bf5qf
>>
>> Eric
>
>
> There may not be a need for a torque wrench if you either have done
> the job before or instinctively know what 14 lb/ft feels like, but I'd
> prefer not to risk those aluminum rocker arms.



i don't think you should attempt this job at this time. it requires
experience and some degree of mechanical aptitude. judging by your
other posts and your reaction to responses, you don't appear to have
either. in fact, your motivation appears to be more recreational than
anything else.

if you're serious about learning, sign up for evening classes. otherwise
leave alone. a fouled up valve adjustment can cost you a lot of money.

jim beam wrote:
> mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>
>> Eric wrote:
>>
>>> "mjc13" wrote:
>>>
>>>> Tegger wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" <"mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"@verizon.net> wrote in
>>>>> news:7uBgi.5806$bj5.2829@trndny07:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> motsco_ wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>>>>>>>> the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
>>>>>>>> Volvo pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the
>>>>>>>> adjustment mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and
>>>>>>>> locknut. So, any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
>>>>>>>> mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ---------------------------------------
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
>>>>>>> combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
>>>>>>> nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a
>>>>>>> screwdriver built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar,
>>>>>>> depending on the size of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't
>>>>>>> used it yet.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 'Curly'
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> It *most certainly* is.
>>>>>
>>>>> I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade
>>>>> screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.
>>>>>
>>>>> The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check
>>>>> are
>>>>> pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere
>>>>> near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.
>>>>>
>>>>> Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need
>>>>> to go
>>>>> the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never
>>>>> turn
>>>>> clockwise more than a degree or two.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was hoping
>>>> to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
>>>> approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
>>>> applicable to my '95 EX?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is no need for a torque wrench. In addition, you may want to
>>> take a
>>> look at one of my prior posts where I discuss the general technique for
>>> adjusting valves. http://tinyurl.com/2bf5qf
>>>
>>> Eric
>>
>>
>>
>> There may not be a need for a torque wrench if you either have done
>> the job before or instinctively know what 14 lb/ft feels like, but I'd
>> prefer not to risk those aluminum rocker arms.
>
>
>
>
> i don't think you should attempt this job at this time. it requires
> experience and some degree of mechanical aptitude. judging by your
> other posts and your reaction to responses, you don't appear to have
> either. in fact, your motivation appears to be more recreational than
> anything else.
>
> if you're serious about learning, sign up for evening classes. otherwise
> leave alone. a fouled up valve adjustment can cost you a lot of money.


I guess that establishes you as a troll. Before I filter you, I'll
again note that I've done valve adjustments - on steel rocker
assemblies, 30 years ago. Caution isn't the same as ineptitude, and
sarcasm isn't the same as wisdom.