Honda Car Forum

I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt. Is is
regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)?
or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)?
Thanks for you help!

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reid wrote:
> I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt. Is is
> regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)?
> or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)?
> Thanks for you help!
>
google this group - regular question.

This bolt is right-hand threaded, so yes, it loosens by
turning counterclockwise. It is, howevever, often
notoriously tight. Some options for freeing it:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html

http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html

Would you please give your model of Honda and miles on it in
the future, for info purposes in case this discussion
proceeds further?

"reid" <none@000.com> wrote
>I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt.
>Is is
> regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)?
> or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)?
> Thanks for you help!

I’m new here and have gone thru the all the messages I can see for 96
and 97 accords without seeing the "direction" for this huge bolt.
Even the manual doesnt say, which makes me guess it’s a normal
threaded bolt. But with the amount of force needed, I’d hate to start
the wrong direction, and believe many of you have already done this.
Thanks

"jim beam" wrote
> reid wrote:
> > I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt.
> Is is
> > regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)?
> > or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)?
> > Thanks for you help!
> >
> google this group - regular question.

On Feb 2, 2:25 pm, reid <n...@000.com> wrote:
> I'm new here and have gone thru the all the messages I can see for 96
> and 97 accords without seeing the "direction" for this huge bolt.
> Even the manual doesnt say, which makes me guess it's a normal
> threaded bolt. But with the amount of force needed, I'd hate to start
> the wrong direction, and believe many of you have already done this.

Yep, it's normal thread, that's why the huge torque. When you
reinstall it, don't leave it too loose or it will undo itself.

reid wrote:
> I�m new here and have gone thru the all the messages I can see for 96
> and 97 accords without seeing the "direction" for this huge bolt.
> Even the manual doesnt say, which makes me guess it�s a normal
> threaded bolt. But with the amount of force needed, I�d hate to start
> the wrong direction, and believe many of you have already done this.

it's normal righty tighty. if you couldn't find it, it was because you
were just looking just for accords - all honda motors are the same in
this regard.

be warned - these bolts get /real/ tight.

#1 best solution is a high torque air impact fixed to a high volume air
supply.

#2 is use a 3/4" drive and a holding tool like you'll see at
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html. i have a 3/4"
breaker bar, 16" extension [gets you outside the wheel well],
3/4"F>1/2"M adapter and a 17mm impact socket - bolts come right off with
that!

#3 is run the risk of injury, car damage and tool breakage with 1/2"
drive tools and cheater bars.

> Thanks,
>
> "jim beam" wrote:
> > reid wrote:
> > > I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt.
> > Is is
> > > regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)?
> > > or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)?
> > > Thanks for you help!
> > >
> > google this group - regular question.

"reid" <none@000.com> wrote in message
news:971919_65c604aba2824212a8fe0e88dde85ff0@autob oardz.com...
>I have to take off this pully to replace the timing belt. Is is
> regular threaded (counter clockwise to loosen)?
> or reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen)?
> Thanks for you help!
>
>
As the others say, it's normal thread and tight as the very devil. The links
to TeGGeR's site will give you the whole run-down.

I do want to mention that the crank turns CCW, unlike most engines. Don't
turn it CW in trying to get the &$#! bolt loose and don't try the trick of
putting the cheater bar on a jack stand and bumping the starter... the
cheater bar will just whack the fender well.

I found a 500 ft-lb impact with 90 psi right at the tool got mine loose
after a bit of trying.

Mike