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Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in > news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t: > >> Jim Yanik wrote: >>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in >>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t: >>> >>>> dex3703 wrote: >>>>> Hi all, >>>>> >>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on >>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable. >>>>> >>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set >>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs >>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when >>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem >>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse. >>>>> >>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird >>>>> failures like this going forward? >>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most >>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the >>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole >>>> sensor. >>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"... >> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing >> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start >> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother. > > I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it. > (then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o > buying the whole throttle body.) right, replacement is the way to go. if you use a junker, seek out the automatics as donors. > > Not removing the whole TB being easier. >>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it >>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort. >>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly) >>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer. >> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed. > > You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside," > indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed. first time, i painstakingly dremeled it open - it took ages. this was before i realized you could remove a sensor from a junker in about 5 minutes. once you have it open, you can completely disassemble and clean - no spray required. > It just has to be opened up first. > It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in. > I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair. if you can buy new, i'd love to know where from! > > (of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and > seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where > it's safe to drill.) good luck! i still don't think it'll work because on mine, the carbon track appeared worn through - spray won't fix that. > >>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe. >>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened. > > > Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did > you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle > body) junk yard - sensor only. it's literally 5 minutes - all you need is a small hammer and a small [sharp] chisel. use the chisel to nudge the shear nuts around so they turn by hand. on the dpfi it really is a piece of cake. on the 4pfi, it's much harder as it's all behind the manifold. |
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