Honda Car Forum

Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start.
After making sure it was not the timing belt,I pulled a plug wire to check
for spark.
With the plug wire off, and a piece of metal in it to check to ground for
spark, there was none, then all of a sudden it started.
At the customers request,we changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor.
Car started and ran fine for a while, but later would not start. Customer
let it sit for a while, and got it started.

Now I recall I had a 87 accord(My own car) about 7 years ago,that did the
exact same thing.. Pull a plug wire off and it would start.
I talked to this mechanic, and he had me change some type of coolant sensor,
and that fixed it.
The car will run as long as you want it to, but just give's us trouble on
restarting.
That was the same way my 87 did too.

But I cant recall just what it was called, or where it was located.
Does any one have an Idea on this problem? or what the sensor is called, and
it's location?
The motor is a 4 cylinder.
Thanks, Tony

"ANTHONY DIODATI" <mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote in
news:TJESg.4313$422.3053@trnddc03:

> Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start.
> After making sure it was not the timing belt,I pulled a plug wire to
> check for spark.
> With the plug wire off, and a piece of metal in it to check to ground
> for spark, there was none, then all of a sudden it started.
> At the customers request,we changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and
> rotor. Car started and ran fine for a while, but later would not
> start. Customer let it sit for a while, and got it started.

sounds like a main relay problem.
see www.tegger.com

It's a very common Honda/Acura problem part.

>
> Now I recall I had a 87 accord(My own car) about 7 years ago,that did
> the exact same thing.. Pull a plug wire off and it would start.
> I talked to this mechanic, and he had me change some type of coolant
> sensor, and that fixed it.
> The car will run as long as you want it to, but just give's us trouble
> on restarting.
> That was the same way my 87 did too.
>
> But I cant recall just what it was called, or where it was located.
> Does any one have an Idea on this problem? or what the sensor is
> called, and it's location?
> The motor is a 4 cylinder.
> Thanks, Tony
>
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

ANTHONY DIODATI wrote:
>
> Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start.

----------------------------------------------

Next time it happens (until you get the relay replaced / resoldered) you
can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
engine will now start. The vibration will keep the relay working until
you next shut it off....

It's also temperature related, so cooling the interior of the car
usually works too. That's why it's famous for stranding people at
7-Eleven. You come out of the store and it won't start (interior is hot
from the sun). You come back later and it starts. Sun has gone down in
the meantime.

Don't think of unbolting the relay, just slip it out of it's shell and
take it inside to resolder. Should last the rest of the vehicle's life.

'Curly'

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
news:451B9A4B.869174CC@interbaun.com...
> ANTHONY DIODATI wrote:
> >
> > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start.
>
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> Next time it happens (until you get the relay replaced / resoldered) you
> can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
> driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
> engine will now start. The vibration will keep the relay working until
> you next shut it off....
>
> It's also temperature related, so cooling the interior of the car
> usually works too. That's why it's famous for stranding people at
> 7-Eleven. You come out of the store and it won't start (interior is hot
> from the sun). You come back later and it starts. Sun has gone down in
> the meantime.
>
> Don't think of unbolting the relay, just slip it out of it's shell and
> take it inside to resolder. Should last the rest of the vehicle's life.

<<<you
> can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
> driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
> engine will now start.

Thanks, I'll have him try that

Useful link too, Thanks Jim
Tony

"ANTHONY DIODATI" <mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:q3OSg.13090$Vk4.4527@trnddc01...
>
> "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> news:451B9A4B.869174CC@interbaun.com...
> > ANTHONY DIODATI wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------
> >
> > Next time it happens (until you get the relay replaced / resoldered) you
> > can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
> > driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
> > engine will now start. The vibration will keep the relay working until
> > you next shut it off....
> >
> > It's also temperature related, so cooling the interior of the car
> > usually works too. That's why it's famous for stranding people at
> > 7-Eleven. You come out of the store and it won't start (interior is hot
> > from the sun). You come back later and it starts. Sun has gone down in
> > the meantime.
> >
> > Don't think of unbolting the relay, just slip it out of it's shell and
> > take it inside to resolder. Should last the rest of the vehicle's life.
>
> <<<you
> > can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
> > driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
> > engine will now start.
>
> Thanks, I'll have him try that
>
> Useful link too, Thanks Jim
> Tony
Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him to
slam the door too, he got it started that way. He replaced the relay and so
far so good!
I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder joints.
Is this something that you really can't see? You just re solder them any
way?
Also what all years have this main relay?
Thanks, Tony

The crack(s) might be very small. Maybe unnoticeable. There are some
pictures on some this showing them (notice the ring around the posts.
That's bad! ) http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm . Just
re-solder all joints to be sure. I did mine a few years ago on my '91
DX and still working well.

On Mon, 02 Oct 2006 22:37:00 GMT, "ANTHONY DIODATI"
<mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote:

>
>"ANTHONY DIODATI" <mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote in message
>news:q3OSg.13090$Vk4.4527@trnddc01...
>>
>> "'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
>> news:451B9A4B.869174CC@interbaun.com...
>> > ANTHONY DIODATI wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start.
>> >
>> > ----------------------------------------------
>> >
>> > Next time it happens (until you get the relay replaced / resoldered) you
>> > can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
>> > driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
>> > engine will now start. The vibration will keep the relay working until
>> > you next shut it off....
>> >
>> > It's also temperature related, so cooling the interior of the car
>> > usually works too. That's why it's famous for stranding people at
>> > 7-Eleven. You come out of the store and it won't start (interior is hot
>> > from the sun). You come back later and it starts. Sun has gone down in
>> > the meantime.
>> >
>> > Don't think of unbolting the relay, just slip it out of it's shell and
>> > take it inside to resolder. Should last the rest of the vehicle's life.
>>
>> <<<you
>> > can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the
>> > driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the
>> > engine will now start.
>>
>> Thanks, I'll have him try that
>>
>> Useful link too, Thanks Jim
>> Tony
>Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him to
>slam the door too, he got it started that way. He replaced the relay and so
>far so good!
>I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder joints.
>Is this something that you really can't see? You just re solder them any
>way?
>Also what all years have this main relay?
>Thanks, Tony
>

"ANTHONY DIODATI" <mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote in
news:gwgUg.15149$3T2.3919@trnddc06:


> I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder
> joints. Is this something that you really can't see? You just re
> solder them any way?


Yep.


> Also what all years have this main relay?



Every blessed one of them, if they've got EFI. Late carbed cars got a
simplified version called the "fuel cut" relay. It is not prone to the same
problems as the EFI ones.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns9850D0E27DDA6tegger@207.14.116.130:

> "ANTHONY DIODATI" <mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote in
> news:gwgUg.15149$3T2.3919@trnddc06:
>
>
>> I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder
>> joints. Is this something that you really can't see? You just re
>> solder them any way?
>
>
> Yep.
>
>
>> Also what all years have this main relay?
>
>
>
> Every blessed one of them, if they've got EFI. Late carbed cars got a
> simplified version called the "fuel cut" relay. It is not prone to the
> same problems as the EFI ones.
>
>

SWAG;
Carburators need less fuel pressure,and have a reservoir of fuel in their
bowl that keeps the motor running long enough to avoid relay intermittents.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"ANTHONY DIODATI" <mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:gwgUg.15149$3T2.3919@trnddc06...
> Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him
> to
> slam the door too, he got it started that way. He replaced the relay and
> so
> far so good!
> I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder joints.
> Is this something that you really can't see? You just re solder them any
> way?

Just resolder them all anyway, because you want to fix not only the ones
that have cracked but also reflow the ones that are getting fatigued without
visible cracks.

When I was young I could see bad solder connections two feet away in
fluorescent light. Now I need sunlight, I take off my glasses and put my
face in close. A magnifier and good light are the best way to see them.

Mike

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:maydnTrGneYMXbzYnZ2dnUVZ_sCdnZ2d@sedona.net.. .
> "ANTHONY DIODATI" <mrbreezeet1@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:gwgUg.15149$3T2.3919@trnddc06...
> > Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him
> > to
> > slam the door too, he got it started that way. He replaced the relay and
> > so
> > far so good!
> > I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder
joints.
> > Is this something that you really can't see? You just re solder them any
> > way?
>
> Just resolder them all anyway, because you want to fix not only the ones
> that have cracked but also reflow the ones that are getting fatigued
without
> visible cracks.
>
> When I was young I could see bad solder connections two feet away in
> fluorescent light. Now I need sunlight, I take off my glasses and put my
> face in close. A magnifier and good light are the best way to see them.
>
> Mike
All Right!
Thanks For all the help info Links etc.
This is a good thing to know.
Tony