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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12 Aug 2006, 01:53 pm
jophus@gmail.com
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Default 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

Chilton's says to install cylinder head, piston #1 should be at top
dead center while the camshaft pulley reads "UP". This sounds pretty
simple to me. However, I have a friend who's a mechanic and he insists
that I remove the crankshaft pulley in order to see the timing
sprocket, which also has marks that need to be lined up correctly. I
would be okay with that, too, if the crankshaft bolt wasn't installed
at 180 ft. lbs. of torque. My air compressor and impact gun don't do
the trick. I've also tried heating the bolt. The next method I'll
employ is removing the starter to access the flywheel, which I can have
my neighbor brace with a prybar while I jump from the roof onto the
two-foot lead pipe slid onto the rachet. Before I do this, my
questions are:

a) Is there a way to have everything lined up absolutely correctly
without having to remove the crankshaft pulley?

b) Any more suggestions on removing the crankshaft bolt?

Thanks.

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12 Aug 2006, 02:55 pm
jim beam
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Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

jophus@gmail.com wrote:
> Chilton's says to install cylinder head, piston #1 should be at top
> dead center while the camshaft pulley reads "UP". This sounds pretty
> simple to me. However, I have a friend who's a mechanic and he insists
> that I remove the crankshaft pulley in order to see the timing
> sprocket, which also has marks that need to be lined up correctly. I
> would be okay with that, too, if the crankshaft bolt wasn't installed
> at 180 ft. lbs. of torque. My air compressor and impact gun don't do
> the trick. I've also tried heating the bolt. The next method I'll
> employ is removing the starter to access the flywheel, which I can have
> my neighbor brace with a prybar while I jump from the roof onto the
> two-foot lead pipe slid onto the rachet. Before I do this, my
> questions are:
>
> a) Is there a way to have everything lined up absolutely correctly
> without having to remove the crankshaft pulley?
>
> b) Any more suggestions on removing the crankshaft bolt?
>
> Thanks.
>

yes, buy and use the pulley holder tool like it says in the book. go to
tegger.com and look for details. you may find you local dealer rents
them out.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12 Aug 2006, 03:33 pm
jophus@gmail.com
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Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

Already been to the rental place....the 250lb. electric impact wrench
that tegger.com recommends didn't work for me. The chilton's manual
doesn't say anything about a pulley tool.

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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12 Aug 2006, 06:29 pm
Elle
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Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

The crankshaft pulley should have four marks on it. The
white one is TDC. Align it with the pointer on the timing
belt cover, per
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...sk301/5-21.pdf

Otherwise, resources on how to break free a Honda pulley
bolt:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html

http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html



<jophus@gmail.com> wrote
> Chilton's says to install cylinder head, piston #1 should
> be at top
> dead center while the camshaft pulley reads "UP". This
> sounds pretty
> simple to me. However, I have a friend who's a mechanic
> and he insists
> that I remove the crankshaft pulley in order to see the
> timing
> sprocket, which also has marks that need to be lined up
> correctly. I
> would be okay with that, too, if the crankshaft bolt
> wasn't installed
> at 180 ft. lbs. of torque. My air compressor and impact
> gun don't do
> the trick. I've also tried heating the bolt. The next
> method I'll
> employ is removing the starter to access the flywheel,
> which I can have
> my neighbor brace with a prybar while I jump from the roof
> onto the
> two-foot lead pipe slid onto the rachet. Before I do
> this, my
> questions are:
>
> a) Is there a way to have everything lined up absolutely
> correctly
> without having to remove the crankshaft pulley?
>
> b) Any more suggestions on removing the crankshaft bolt?
>
> Thanks.
>



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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12 Aug 2006, 06:46 pm
TeGGeR®
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

jophus@gmail.com wrote in
news:1155414781.489400.284760@i3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:

> Already been to the rental place....the 250lb. electric impact wrench
> that tegger.com recommends didn't work for me.



I do not "recommend" it except as a first-try. Later on I say you may need
a 3/4" drive 600# job if lighter stuff doesn't work. Have you tried that
yet?



> The chilton's manual
> doesn't say anything about a pulley tool.
>
>



Chilton is crap. So is Haynes. Helms all the way, baby.
www.helminc.com


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12 Aug 2006, 08:01 pm
jim beam
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

jophus@gmail.com wrote:
> Already been to the rental place....the 250lb. electric impact wrench
> that tegger.com recommends didn't work for me.


"you may find you local dealer rents them out." note the word *DEALER*.
as in your local honda honda dealer may rent the proper honda tool out.

> The chilton's manual
> doesn't say anything about a pulley tool.


that's because it's utter carp. the money you wasted on that lining for
a parrot's cage could have been put towards the tool rental.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12 Aug 2006, 08:13 pm
jophus@gmail.com
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

I would've tried it already if the rental places here offered one.
Home Depot has a Rigid impact wrench w/ up to 700 ft. lbs., but I'm not
quite desperate enough to throw down 200 clams for one use. I'm
looking at used tools on Ebay now. There's a Chicago Electric Power
impact wrench that claims a max. 400 ft. lbs. of torque. Looks like I
can get it for around $30.

I agree that Chilton's is crap. (1. Disconnect negative battery cable
2. Overhaul Engine) I might also submit that, if indeed Helms is the
best manual, their marketing department needs some work--never even
heard of them.

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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 14 Aug 2006, 09:19 pm
chip
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Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

Don't pull the crank pulley, the mark on the cover is fine. line it
up with the white mark and put the head on. the belt can be tensioned
by pulling the plug out of the lower cover and accessing the bolt.
I've done a countless number of these this way. tell your mechanic
friend that the white mark on the outside is just as reliable as the
one on the inside.
Chip






On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 23:29:54 GMT, "Elle"
<honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

>The crankshaft pulley should have four marks on it. The
>white one is TDC. Align it with the pointer on the timing
>belt cover, per
>http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...sk301/5-21.pdf
>
>Otherwise, resources on how to break free a Honda pulley
>bolt:
>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
>
>http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html
>
>
>
><jophus@gmail.com> wrote
>> Chilton's says to install cylinder head, piston #1 should
>> be at top
>> dead center while the camshaft pulley reads "UP". This
>> sounds pretty
>> simple to me. However, I have a friend who's a mechanic
>> and he insists
>> that I remove the crankshaft pulley in order to see the
>> timing
>> sprocket, which also has marks that need to be lined up
>> correctly. I
>> would be okay with that, too, if the crankshaft bolt
>> wasn't installed
>> at 180 ft. lbs. of torque. My air compressor and impact
>> gun don't do
>> the trick. I've also tried heating the bolt. The next
>> method I'll
>> employ is removing the starter to access the flywheel,
>> which I can have
>> my neighbor brace with a prybar while I jump from the roof
>> onto the
>> two-foot lead pipe slid onto the rachet. Before I do
>> this, my
>> questions are:
>>
>> a) Is there a way to have everything lined up absolutely
>> correctly
>> without having to remove the crankshaft pulley?
>>
>> b) Any more suggestions on removing the crankshaft bolt?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>

>

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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 14 Aug 2006, 09:34 pm
jim beam
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: 92 Civic 1.5 Cylinder Install

chip wrote:
> Don't pull the crank pulley, the mark on the cover is fine. line it
> up with the white mark and put the head on. the belt can be tensioned
> by pulling the plug out of the lower cover and accessing the bolt.
> I've done a countless number of these this way.


that's the way it's /supposed/ to be done!

> tell your mechanic
> friend that the white mark on the outside is just as reliable as the
> one on the inside.
> Chip
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 23:29:54 GMT, "Elle"
> <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> The crankshaft pulley should have four marks on it. The
>> white one is TDC. Align it with the pointer on the timing
>> belt cover, per
>> http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...sk301/5-21.pdf
>>
>> Otherwise, resources on how to break free a Honda pulley
>> bolt:
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
>>
>> http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html
>>
>>
>>
>> <jophus@gmail.com> wrote
>>> Chilton's says to install cylinder head, piston #1 should
>>> be at top
>>> dead center while the camshaft pulley reads "UP". This
>>> sounds pretty
>>> simple to me. However, I have a friend who's a mechanic
>>> and he insists
>>> that I remove the crankshaft pulley in order to see the
>>> timing
>>> sprocket, which also has marks that need to be lined up
>>> correctly. I
>>> would be okay with that, too, if the crankshaft bolt
>>> wasn't installed
>>> at 180 ft. lbs. of torque. My air compressor and impact
>>> gun don't do
>>> the trick. I've also tried heating the bolt. The next
>>> method I'll
>>> employ is removing the starter to access the flywheel,
>>> which I can have
>>> my neighbor brace with a prybar while I jump from the roof
>>> onto the
>>> two-foot lead pipe slid onto the rachet. Before I do
>>> this, my
>>> questions are:
>>>
>>> a) Is there a way to have everything lined up absolutely
>>> correctly
>>> without having to remove the crankshaft pulley?
>>>
>>> b) Any more suggestions on removing the crankshaft bolt?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>

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